CAUTION! Coroded brake lines can fail!
#41
07-01-2010, 01:00 PM
You can get lines for just a couple bucks from the parts store. Tools are in the 30-50 dollar range......
I do all of my own work, for the most part, so, for me, buying the tools is the preferred route. That, and I already have a pretty good collection of tools...... been working on that for decades.
I do all of my own work, for the most part, so, for me, buying the tools is the preferred route. That, and I already have a pretty good collection of tools...... been working on that for decades.
#42
07-01-2010, 01:13 PM
Champion
You can get lines for just a couple bucks from the parts store. Tools are in the 30-50 dollar range......
I do all of my own work, for the most part, so, for me, buying the tools is the preferred route. That, and I already have a pretty good collection of tools...... been working on that for decades.
I do all of my own work, for the most part, so, for me, buying the tools is the preferred route. That, and I already have a pretty good collection of tools...... been working on that for decades.
#43
07-01-2010, 04:42 PM
Need to be able to do bubble flares, and double flares. If you look around, you can find a tool that will do either.
Tubing cutter.
And if you are really into it, can get one of the bender fellers. I used one a couple times, and it was OK, but, I found that I can do just as good bending by hand.... just gotta be careful not to kink the lines. Judicial use of thumbs works just fine.
Tubing cutter.
And if you are really into it, can get one of the bender fellers. I used one a couple times, and it was OK, but, I found that I can do just as good bending by hand.... just gotta be careful not to kink the lines. Judicial use of thumbs works just fine.
#44
07-01-2010, 05:03 PM
Grand Champion
I wiped out too many brake lines bending them without benefit of a bender. They're cheap enough, last forever, and make nice looking bends, too.
If you don't already have them, flare nut wrenches are good to have on hand. I'd feed the open end wrench to anyone I caught using one on my brake line fittings. Speaking of which, I like my brake bleeder wrenches a lot. A six point socket will work just as well for breaking bleeder screws loose (often) without rounding the heads, but if you work with a buddy it's just a matter of time before he reaches for the 12 point. With the bleeder wrench you can keep the sockets out from under the vehicle and avoid replacing the sockets you've jammed down your buddy's throat.
If you don't already have them, flare nut wrenches are good to have on hand. I'd feed the open end wrench to anyone I caught using one on my brake line fittings. Speaking of which, I like my brake bleeder wrenches a lot. A six point socket will work just as well for breaking bleeder screws loose (often) without rounding the heads, but if you work with a buddy it's just a matter of time before he reaches for the 12 point. With the bleeder wrench you can keep the sockets out from under the vehicle and avoid replacing the sockets you've jammed down your buddy's throat.
#45
07-01-2010, 07:35 PM
I only ever screwed up one line hand bending....
Flare nut wrenches, and the bleeder wrenches are an EXCELLENT idea though.... I tend to break bleeder off more than round them out though....... my customers just didn't think it was important enough to hit them with some break-free before bringing me their car. How inconsiderate.
Flare nut wrenches, and the bleeder wrenches are an EXCELLENT idea though.... I tend to break bleeder off more than round them out though....... my customers just didn't think it was important enough to hit them with some break-free before bringing me their car. How inconsiderate.
#46
07-01-2010, 07:50 PM
Grand Champion
On unknown rust buckets I like to mechanically shock the bleeder screws before I even reach for the wrench. Steel bushings from the hardware store come in handy; just select the one that will just fit over the nipple and rest against the head of the bleeder and rap it soundly with a hammer. It seems to work -- I snapped fewer bleeders after making a habit of it. But I might have just got lucky.
It helps that I don't work on other people's vehicles any more, too. As far as most folks know, I don't know much if anything at all about cars and computers. I work hard to prove that here, too.
Edited to add because I forgot: I like to stick these little widgets on all of my own vehicles because I bleed my brakes once a year and they don't rust bind:
It helps that I don't work on other people's vehicles any more, too. As far as most folks know, I don't know much if anything at all about cars and computers. I work hard to prove that here, too.
Edited to add because I forgot: I like to stick these little widgets on all of my own vehicles because I bleed my brakes once a year and they don't rust bind:
Last edited by UnregisteredUser; 07-01-2010 at 07:54 PM.
#47
09-21-2010, 01:49 PM
My 2001 with 9xxxxmiles main rear brake line busted above fuel tank. Good thing it was that day as one day later I'd been towing a boat. Safety?
Straight pre flared sections from parts store and a connector fit with simple hand bending. A 60" and 51" section. I also noticed that the metal line crossing over to the other side had been replaced, guess do to rust.?.?.
Other than stainless steel is there any safer options? Better steel? Painted?
Straight pre flared sections from parts store and a connector fit with simple hand bending. A 60" and 51" section. I also noticed that the metal line crossing over to the other side had been replaced, guess do to rust.?.?.
Other than stainless steel is there any safer options? Better steel? Painted?
#48
09-21-2010, 03:19 PM
#49
10-01-2010, 01:50 PM
I'm going to be replacing the front lines on my 97 and was wondering what a certain piece is. Its mounted on the frame on the driver side near the wheel. It looks like the right front brake hose connects to it and a steel line goes over to the passanger side. I tried looking for a diagram of the braking system but no dice. Thanks