ah, para-rescue. Good luck. Just don't let your physical fitness slip. I was a 26 day non-select for Special Forces. Went through all the training, but did not make the final cut. It was a bummer, but nothing to talk to a psych about.

 

That stinks capt. , im gonna do my best. Will be taking the PAST test around january so well see.

Now if i can just fix my ram lol

 

i almost went pararescue, but decided not too. good luck though. 2 yr school, higher drop out rate than the seals, more power to ya, i have met some, cool guys.

 

Sounds like time to part it out... dib's on the axles jk man. Anyway, like these guys have mentioned, make sure the battery passes a load test (if you feel like pushing it to my house, I have a tester at my house lol). If that still doesn't help, pull the gray connector apart that is located on the side of the PDC. Take the end that goes down the positive battery cable and jam a short section of wire in the connector. Take the other end and hold it on the positive battery terminal. By doing so you remove everything else from the equation except for the starter.

If (Starter cranks on wire contact == True)
{
retrace wiring from PDC to ignition switch
}
else
{
Replace Starter
}

I learned my lesson after replacing my starter and it wasn't the problem. Also be careful of the lock clip on the starter if you remove it. I broke mine All in all I wish ya luck, report back with what you find and we'll get you back on your feet.

 

So heres my adventure today.

Started with pulling the battery and checking it with volt meter. 12.4

Put it on charger anyway to check it out, low on amps very low. So I charged it to full
While it was charging, I stripped/cut my negetive wires cuz they were corroded and looked like crap. Hooked everything up AND,...nothing...
So took the volt, and ohm meter and went to work. Everything looked fine.
Decided to bite the bullet and pull the starter. WHAT AT PITA, impact hammer and compresser wrentch later, it got it off. As per chiltons manual, went through tests with volt meter. Everything again...fine. Took it to autozone ot just make sure.
Again, fine. While this is all going one I find my next project....rear main seal needs to be
replaced, leak isnt bad but its there.

So for tomorrow, going to pull the positive wires going to the starter and check those out. Didnt get any readings coming from the battery to the smaller connection to the starter.

 

i had a problem where my starter fuse kept blowing, had too throw a syloniod on it

 

so the bench test of the starter was good. it spun with 12 volts applied?
and the load test of the battery was good ?

yep, starter is a pain to remove. some ******* somewhere at the factory torqued them to about 200 pounds. probably thought it was funny.

so next would be to verify that the starter control wire gets 12 volts when key is turned, and the big wire has 12 volts constant. and that all connections are clean and tight.

 

Load test on battery was good, bench test on starter was also a-go and spun with 12 volts.

I checked the starter control wire and it wasnt getting the 12 volts, so thats what i'll be working on in the morning. Looks like that will be replaced.

Your not kidding about that a**hat at the factory putting so much torque into those studs.

 

Control wire should only have power when the key is in the start position.....

 

im in the same damn boat >.<

although the battery thats in my truck atm is to small, and my starter wire where it meets the starter is corroded as hell