Hello All,

Long time lurker, first time poster.

I drive a 2001 ram 3/4 ton (light duty), with a 5.9 gas, 4x4, auto, long box reg cab, 160000 km (98000 miles).

I got the truck 8 months ago and have had a tick since I got it. Also has a bit of a lumpy idle.

I have reason to believe it sat for a few months before I got it (but not longer than 6 months).

I ran synth oil (5 qts of Mobil 1) thinking it just needed to be run to free up a stuck lifter, for a couple of oil changes.

Currently running 4 quarts of Mobil 1 with 1 quart of Rislone. The rislone seemed to make my tick better, but not cure it. I put this in there about 6 weeks ago (3000 km on the oil change now).

So today I used a stethoscope and traced the tick to the drivers side valve cover. Pulled the cover, all rockers felt tight.

Ran the motor, #1 exhaust rocker was not pumping oil, all others were flowing great. The rocker looked to be functioning fine (actuating valve) like all others, so I don't think I have a wiped cam lobe. I pulled the rod and checked it, nice clear bore, and nice and straight.

I backed off the rocker bolt and let it idle hoping the lifter would pump up or clear a piece of grit or something, didn't work. I pushed on it, and wiggled it while it was running, still not pumping oil.

I cleared the push rod bore of oil, then squirted WD40 down there and let it soak, still not pumping oil. Then I re-torqued the bolt and still not pumping oil.

Are there any other tricks to un-collapse a lifter?

Should I replace all the lifters ($16 CAN each = $250 total), or should I just replace the one bad one?

Do I have to replace the cam if I replace all the lifters?

Any input or advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Chris

 

well i know nothing about this, but......

WELCOME TO THE FORUM

 

Just replace the one bad lifter and call it good. Nuthin' to it.

 

Thanks for the welcome Bubba.

Unreg, I thought that a lifter seated to a cam lobe, and that if you replace a lifter you should replace the cam? Or is that just for flat tappet lifters?

What are the chances I have a plugged oil gallery?

The motor is pretty clean on the inside from what I have seen.

Thanks,
Chris

 

i replaced all my lifters

 

Lifters and cam lobes do wear together, true, but there's no reason to replace a cam over a single failed lifter. I've done it many times and never seen a problem, even when tearing down an engine in which I'd done so many thousands of miles earlier.

I'd recommend checking the lifter thoroughly when it comes out, including a leakdown test. If it checks out just fine then maybe you've got a plugged gallery or some other oiling problem -- but I don't expect it to pass a leakdown test from what you've said. I've seen lots of bad lifters over the years, especially on engines that have sat unused for months, but darn few plugged oil passages. Just leaving an engine to sit for a long time will take out a lifter or two by allowing the volatiles to evaporate out of the oil, leaving behind a hard "bathtub ring" where the top of the plunger sat after the lifter bled down and a coating of varnish on the check ball.

To rule out an oiling problem, take a look at the cam lobe once the lifter's out. If you see a blued lobe or excessive scoring you might have an oiling problem. Otherwise it's almost certainly just a bad lifter. If you're cheap, you might try to bring it back to life with kerosene or solvent, but it's better to just replace it with a new lifter you've leakdown tested before installation.

The plugged oil passages I've seen have all been on high mileage engines that were terribly neglected and were being treated to a steady diet of "re-refined" motor oil and oil thickening agents because they were burning and leaking oil almost as fast as they were burning gasoline. Unless the engine sits under a hood held closed by a chain or rope, in front of a cracked windshield that just barely keeps the wind from blowing the fast food wrappers and empty beer cans out of the cab to expose the ripped seats and shredded stained carpet underneath, you probably don't have to worry about a plugged oil passage.

 

Roller lifters do not wear like flat tappet lifters, there is no true wear pattern and they can be reused on a new cam, provided some sort of FOD hasn't gouged the lifter roller or cam lobe.

You can even pull a lifter apart and clean it and reuse it, so long as the spring inside still has tension to hold the check ball up.

manciniracing.com sells lifters for much cheaper than $250 for 16. Search for Mopar performance lifters, even the dealership orders those for stock replacements.

 

Thanks for the info guys.

I am getting a line from a local performance shop on different (hopefully cheaper) lifters. I wanna do this job this week, so won't have time to wait for lifters to be shipped in.

Is there an easy way to leakdown test a lifter?

I checked the service manual, and they show a special tool with a lever, and counterweight... I don't have this.

Any other acceptable methods? Any tips or tricks?

When I install the new lifters, I am planning on letting them soak in oil for a couple days. Should I try to pump them up in the oil before install?

Will this affect torquing down the rocker arm bolts (pre-load)? The service manual doesn't say too much about this.

Thanks again,
Chris

 

Don't pump them up. Just dunk them in oil before the install. If you pump them up, they will not give you the correct lifter preload.

After you get it all put back together, start it up and hold the gas to about 2000 rpms, just like an old school cam break in. The lifters will pump up and the clacking will stop.

If it doesn't stop within 2 minutes or so, shut it off and think thru your steps to make sure you didn't forget anything. If you are sire you did everything right try again for another 2 minutes.

 

i found my MP for a 109 dollars then + shipping

they a tight fit coming out with the heads on,, but they will with out cutting the gasket