Timing chain help!!!
#12
07-09-2010, 06:51 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Cincinnati, OH
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i understand how you feel atc...i have a cloyes chain going on soon..i have all my stuff for hughes, chain etc just sittin in the back of my truck. just havent had time, but the timing chain was my biggest worry...from what the haynes manual said, the top sprocket dot needs top point at 6oclock and the bottom sprocket needs to point at 12...
but from what ive heard you can just pull off the old chain and throw the new one on without doing any turning...the sprockets can only go on a certain way due to the keyways...i would do photobucket. easy to use and free.
i have a question for you though. 1) how did you remove the old chain set 2) what did you use to remove the fan system
i couldnt find a wrench big enough to bust the nut
but from what ive heard you can just pull off the old chain and throw the new one on without doing any turning...the sprockets can only go on a certain way due to the keyways...i would do photobucket. easy to use and free.
i have a question for you though. 1) how did you remove the old chain set 2) what did you use to remove the fan system
i couldnt find a wrench big enough to bust the nut
#14
07-09-2010, 06:56 PM
Captain
#15
07-09-2010, 06:59 PM
Legend
#16
07-09-2010, 07:02 PM
#17
07-09-2010, 07:05 PM
Legend
That appears correct.
Assuming you didn't ever move the cam or crank sprocket without the chain attached, I'd say you're fine.
I would suggest running a tensioner with that particular chain, or you'll need to redo it within 50K more than likely.
Also appears that somebody used RTV instead of an oil pan gasket. If that hasn't leaked yet, lucky you!
You'll want to reapply a bit of new RTV on any exposed surface, but you really should have a gasket there.
Assuming you didn't ever move the cam or crank sprocket without the chain attached, I'd say you're fine.
I would suggest running a tensioner with that particular chain, or you'll need to redo it within 50K more than likely.
Also appears that somebody used RTV instead of an oil pan gasket. If that hasn't leaked yet, lucky you!
You'll want to reapply a bit of new RTV on any exposed surface, but you really should have a gasket there.
#18
07-09-2010, 07:20 PM
Captain
#19
07-09-2010, 08:37 PM
That appears correct.
Assuming you didn't ever move the cam or crank sprocket without the chain attached, I'd say you're fine.
I would suggest running a tensioner with that particular chain, or you'll need to redo it within 50K more than likely.
Also appears that somebody used RTV instead of an oil pan gasket. If that hasn't leaked yet, lucky you!
You'll want to reapply a bit of new RTV on any exposed surface, but you really should have a gasket there.
Assuming you didn't ever move the cam or crank sprocket without the chain attached, I'd say you're fine.
I would suggest running a tensioner with that particular chain, or you'll need to redo it within 50K more than likely.
Also appears that somebody used RTV instead of an oil pan gasket. If that hasn't leaked yet, lucky you!
You'll want to reapply a bit of new RTV on any exposed surface, but you really should have a gasket there.
The rtv that is on top of the oil pan gasket is a micro-thin layer. I put some fresh rtv there as well so I can't see it leaking.
#20
07-09-2010, 08:45 PM
Legend
The camshaft and crankshaft being incorrectly aligned can cause immediate and utter engine failure, yes. A very tiny amount of movement most likely would not. Move the cam 10, 20, 30, degrees out of alignment and you could be purchasing a new engine.
Best way to check is to turn the motor over by hand with no spark plugs in and see if the crankshaft makes it 2 complete rotations. If it does, you are probably safe. Do this by reinserting the crank bolt and turn it around 2 full turns with the socket.
If it stops or catches anywhere along the way, the piston and valve has collided somewhere and you will have to re-degree the camshaft in relation to the crankshaft.
Best way to check is to turn the motor over by hand with no spark plugs in and see if the crankshaft makes it 2 complete rotations. If it does, you are probably safe. Do this by reinserting the crank bolt and turn it around 2 full turns with the socket.
If it stops or catches anywhere along the way, the piston and valve has collided somewhere and you will have to re-degree the camshaft in relation to the crankshaft.