I give up
yup its on there. I replaced the TPS last night, and that deff made a difference in how soon the truck kicks down and moves.
the 35s and 3.55 gears dont affect anything at all. It isnt a race truck, i havent felt a loss in power or even in fuel mileage
there is no cam in the truck it was a reference.
the 35s and 3.55 gears dont affect anything at all. It isnt a race truck, i havent felt a loss in power or even in fuel mileage
there is no cam in the truck it was a reference.
dude- the very first thing I would do is 'borrow' a set of 17" rims and rubber from a buddy or something, and go pick out something heavy to tow..
I have a similar set-up, but I'm going to 4.56's by the end of the week.. I pull a lousy 2k# every single weekend, and there is a huge difference between 33" stock and 35" cepeks.. just sayin' man..
I have a similar set-up, but I'm going to 4.56's by the end of the week.. I pull a lousy 2k# every single weekend, and there is a huge difference between 33" stock and 35" cepeks.. just sayin' man..
Currently has 35s on it with the 3.55 gears, and i haven't had a problem till i hooked up, but i know its now because of the tires because it did this before with the tiny 265s.
It stumbles its way to 3000 because the pcm is dumping so much gas into the motor, if i stand in it, it smokes like a diesel
Replace the pre-CAT 02 and get some gears. Turning that with oversize and 3.55 ratio well there's your issue not to mention a bad 02. Replace with a Dealership 02 and call it a day.
I have one on my 2001.
I agree with the rest. Your gears + tires may be part of the problem, but there is something else going on. The pre-cat O2 sensor, or one of the other sensors that contributes to the air/fuel ratio.
You don't necessarily need a dealership O2 sensor... if you can find one, NTK/NGK makes a nice sensor.
I agree with the rest. Your gears + tires may be part of the problem, but there is something else going on. The pre-cat O2 sensor, or one of the other sensors that contributes to the air/fuel ratio.
You don't necessarily need a dealership O2 sensor... if you can find one, NTK/NGK makes a nice sensor.
Ok, I'm just gonna throw this out there and you guys chew it up! LOL
I had experience with a GM truck that ONLY lost power when it pulled his boat trailer, we went all through that damn truck on numerous occasions. Then we found it...by fluke! The problem? The truck had a 1 7/8" ball and the trailer had a 2" coupler, the trailer coupler would move/bang (not loudly at all) back and forth on the smaller ball, the engine anti-knock sensor would pick it up as engine pre-ignition and keep retarding the ignition timing until the truck would barely run! I'm new here and have no idea if our trucks have anything similar or not, but like I said, I just thought I would throw it out there!
Good luck!
I had experience with a GM truck that ONLY lost power when it pulled his boat trailer, we went all through that damn truck on numerous occasions. Then we found it...by fluke! The problem? The truck had a 1 7/8" ball and the trailer had a 2" coupler, the trailer coupler would move/bang (not loudly at all) back and forth on the smaller ball, the engine anti-knock sensor would pick it up as engine pre-ignition and keep retarding the ignition timing until the truck would barely run! I'm new here and have no idea if our trucks have anything similar or not, but like I said, I just thought I would throw it out there!
Good luck!











