Vibration when braking and at 80MPH
#11
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Yes, I know they have a minimum thickness, but at today's prices it's cheaper to chuck them and go new. My dad was a design engineer who loved talking with the Ford engineers about brakes. They literally walked, talked, ate, and shiat brakes and anything to do with braking systems.
Also note that in order to save weight for gas ratings, the auto companies equip new vehicles with brakes that typically don't last long. Why? Thinner rotors/drums saves weight.
Also note that in order to save weight for gas ratings, the auto companies equip new vehicles with brakes that typically don't last long. Why? Thinner rotors/drums saves weight.
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#12
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Me too. That's why I always upgrade rotors, calipers, drums, shoes, et cetera the first time I have reason to mess with them. A car that won't go is a nuisance, a car that won't stop is a deathtrap!
#13
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Agreed. I always upgrade/improve on the brakes. It kills me in car forums where guys talk about the massive upgrades they want to make on the engine/transmission and are flummoxed when asked if they intend to upgrade their brakes.
#14
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My next project for my truck are cryogenic rotors and MAYBE the drum to disc conversion for my rear. I like the power from the SCT and 1.7s, so that is good for a few years.
Brakes were the next thing that i wanted to do.
Here are the rotors:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PWR-8748XPR/
Drum to disc conversion kit: Single piston disc brake.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SSB-A158-1/
I just think that the conversion kit is a pretty original thing. However, it means swapping the axles with what comes in the kit. I have never done that.
--Dan
#15
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I Think you may have multiple brake system issues.
Vibration can definitely be warped rotors.
Pulling to one side usually indicates one brake caliper is not working. This can be caused by a failed caliper, debris in the line, debris in one chamber of the Brake Master Cylinder, a corroded metal line that leaks fluid/sucks air, a failed rubber brake line near the calipers.
Those rubber brake lines can fail internally, and not even be visible on the outside. A good indicator is brake fluid that looks black and has "stuff" floating in it, especially visible in the BMC reservoir.
I know I'm due to swap those rubber lines out, I want to get some SS braided lines.
Silver, if you read this, can you post up the link to those SS lines you bought?
Vibration can definitely be warped rotors.
Pulling to one side usually indicates one brake caliper is not working. This can be caused by a failed caliper, debris in the line, debris in one chamber of the Brake Master Cylinder, a corroded metal line that leaks fluid/sucks air, a failed rubber brake line near the calipers.
Those rubber brake lines can fail internally, and not even be visible on the outside. A good indicator is brake fluid that looks black and has "stuff" floating in it, especially visible in the BMC reservoir.
I know I'm due to swap those rubber lines out, I want to get some SS braided lines.
Silver, if you read this, can you post up the link to those SS lines you bought?
Last edited by aim4squirrels; 07-25-2010 at 09:44 PM.
#16
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I Think you may have multiple brake system issues.
Vibration can definitely be warped rotors.
Pulling to one side usually indicates one brake caliper is not working. This can be caused by a failed caliper, debris in the line, debris in one chamber of the Brake Master Cylinder, a corroded metal line that leaks fluid/sucks air, a failed rubber brake line near the calipers.
Those rubber brake lines can fail internally, and not even be visible on the outside. A good indicator is brake fluid that looks black and has "stuff" floating in it, especially visible in the BMC reservoir.
I know I'm due to swap those rubber lines out, I want to get some SS braided lines.
Silver, if you read this, can you post up the link to those SS lines you bought?
Vibration can definitely be warped rotors.
Pulling to one side usually indicates one brake caliper is not working. This can be caused by a failed caliper, debris in the line, debris in one chamber of the Brake Master Cylinder, a corroded metal line that leaks fluid/sucks air, a failed rubber brake line near the calipers.
Those rubber brake lines can fail internally, and not even be visible on the outside. A good indicator is brake fluid that looks black and has "stuff" floating in it, especially visible in the BMC reservoir.
I know I'm due to swap those rubber lines out, I want to get some SS braided lines.
Silver, if you read this, can you post up the link to those SS lines you bought?
#17
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Yeah, I have a bunch of black bits n' pieces in the BMC reservoir.
PM Silver_Dodge on where he got his, I'll try to search for that thread.
I think Junior Mechanic once said is dad's shop used to make them too, might wanna ask him as well.
EDIT: found it
http://www.egrbrakes.com/brakelinekit.htm
PM Silver_Dodge on where he got his, I'll try to search for that thread.
I think Junior Mechanic once said is dad's shop used to make them too, might wanna ask him as well.
EDIT: found it
http://www.egrbrakes.com/brakelinekit.htm
Last edited by aim4squirrels; 07-26-2010 at 08:41 AM.
#18
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Yeah, I have a bunch of black bits n' pieces in the BMC reservoir.
PM Silver_Dodge on where he got his, I'll try to search for that thread.
I think Junior Mechanic once said is dad's shop used to make them too, might wanna ask him as well.
EDIT: found it
http://www.egrbrakes.com/brakelinekit.htm
PM Silver_Dodge on where he got his, I'll try to search for that thread.
I think Junior Mechanic once said is dad's shop used to make them too, might wanna ask him as well.
EDIT: found it
http://www.egrbrakes.com/brakelinekit.htm
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