Reman 5.9 long block $1395
Roller upgrade installed $100
Cam upgrade installed $100
Air Gap $600
oil pan $70 (would it be wise to reuse my old one?)
hi perf water pump $109 (would it be wise to reuse my old one?)
fan clutch $50 (would it be wise to reuse my old one?)
flex plate $50 (would it be wise to reuse my old one?)
cap/rotor/wires $55
e3 plugs $48
SS headers $109
RP 5w30 and filter $70
180* stat $10
gaskets- valve cover, timing cover, oil pan $80
reusing valve covers, sensors, alt,coil,ps pump
anything else i should consider buying new? any suggestions or thoughts are appreciated... thanks

 

Doesnt the long block come with oil pan, and valve covers?

Skip the hp water pump. Stock unit will be just fine. (you will have to source one locally, as I won't come with one....

Flex plate. If yours isn't cracked/damaged in some fashion, save the money and re-use it.

Some have had problems with the E3 plugs, NGK's are reportedly good.

Use 10W30 oil. That is what the engines were designed for. You will get no benefit (but possibly some detriment) from a lighter weight oil.

You can reuse your valve covers if they dont come with the long block. Same for the oil pan. Have a look at it though, if it is in reasonable condition, just reuse it.

Intake gaskets?

Throttle body gasket?

 

I had my E3's on my truck for 2 years before they started to misfire. Your call though.

 

i forgot to ask the guy when i talked to him however there arent any valvecovers in the picture and i dont think i c an oil pan either. if im not mistaken doesnt the hughes airgap kit come with intake and TB gaskets? what shuld i look for as far as damage goes on the flex plate? i was assuming that since this engine has 176k on it that the gasket mating surfaces on things like the oil pan and valve covers wouldnt be "quite right" and i would get some leakage. however from just looking at the OP and VC's they look like ther in good shape idk? just curious, i thot our engines wer spec'd 5w30 when new? again curious, whats wrong with the e3s. not questioning your knowledge just wondering.... oh and is RP the way to go-dont want to skimp on anything i really want to take good care of this new engine

 

If your valve covers, and OP are sealing up nice now, no reason to believe that they won't on the new engine as well. While you have them off, just clean them up very nicely, make sure the gasket surfaces are nice and flat. Paint 'em if you feel like it. (high temp engine paint please.)

Flexplate: just check for cracking, or evidence of it encountering something it shouldn't have. If in doubt, replace it. It isn't that expensive, and is a pain in the keester to replace once the engine is in.

I have seen a few folks reporting engine miss with the E3's, some almost immediately, others after some time...... (as J415 above....) Some trucks like 'em, some don't. If you wanna give 'em a shot, and see if your truck likes 'em, go for it. Me personally though..... I just go with what's basically stock. (as in, factory recommended) Although, I wouldn't use the Champion plugs that they probably suggest.... but, I am not a fan of platinum plugs, or any other esoteric metal, or multiple electrodes, or whatever. A nice fresh set of A/C, or NGK's will do ya just fine.

Manifold might come with necessary gaskets, check the contents of the package you order, and it should tell you before you spend your money.

What's RP? Role Playing?? (yeah, I am a PC gamer in my spare time......)

 

what cam are you getting thats 100 bucks?

i would go ngk iriduim plugs or something thew magnum motor likes i hear e3 only worj for a lil bit and hit the dust .


i would reuse alot of stuff just to save money , if its not bad why fix it ?

 

royal purple oil im guessing but i think it is a waste of money. just because it cost more then the others dosent make it any better. i think i would use amsoil oil over rp if i used synethic oil

 

I keep hearing rumors that synthetic oil prolongs break-in time?? No clue if there is any truth to that. I just use dino oil, cause I am cheap.

 

haha RP=Royal Purple, dont laugh at me guys, but i was planning on using RP break in oil as well, any objections? i dont have valve cover leaks but the oil pan does have leaks (failed gasket maybe, idk?) o yea and im tempted to get the "MOPAR MAGNUM" valve covers just because theyre straight up bitchn

 

yea ive been debating as to whether or not to use amsoil or royal purple. imo the amsoil tests that you see on every website that comes up when you type in "amsoil" on google look rigged as i cant find them anywhere but on amsoil dealer sites like "amsoilisthebest.com,iloveamsoil.com, amsoilrocks.com" ahaha. however i did find a synthetics comparison with M1, RP and quite a few other reputable synthetics in a reputable car mag and RP performed the best by leaving the smallest scar on a bearing i forget the details... o yea and the guys on powerblock use it in like every engine they build so thats good enough for me unless i start going back and forth on this again... haha