Just so you know, if I were going to drop 6-7000 on a motor, I would just get a mopar crate engine.

 

Holy hell! I guy from Palestine!
I live in Tyler!

Looks like you're going to have fun there. I appears that your engine really needed to be torn down too.
What else do you have planned for it?

 

i was figuering that the airgap would be better for a truck bc it is dual plane which is made for low end torque also hemi fever which i got my tuner from said that he had the m1 and lost alot of low end torque

 

Hey hey small world isn't it, i'll actually be there in a day or so to get my block checked and bored out.

heads were cracked and as for the block it has 250k on it and is in need of some love, and if the block is bad I'll be going with a crate anyways, but if its worth fixing I want to do it myself. 2k lands me the parts I need to make it run right again as a 365. 1k more and those parts become performance instead of replacements. 1k more would make it turn numbers comparable to the crate engines. and I get the satisfaction of knowing that I picked the parts and I built it, I didn't just pay for horsepower like some of the wannabe gearheads that I know. "I paid 4k for my exhaust hurr hurr I got 10 horsepower from it thats good right?" yeah its like that here lol

as for turbo ^
it needs to run first, and even then I'll probably go supercharger, much better at lower rps as it creates useable boost earlier than a turbo. that and I don't want it to go 200mph because I don't plan on lowering it and I don't fancy flipping it because it got too much air under it. as it was before the heads went it would do 135 mph before it started floating and I backed out of it. just enough to beat ricers and stangs stoplight to stoplight is plenty for a truck.

according to comp stock pushrods are fine, so the plan was to get new stock length ones in a package deal from them that comes with 1.6 roller rockers for 300 bones.

as for the M1 I know I'm going to lose low end torque but the other mods will more than make up for it, mostly where my motor needs improvement is between 3k-5k so mid to upper range.

as for future plans for the truck... the winner of pinks all out lives about 5 miles from me and owns a full fledged shop that specializes in NOS and I know him personally . I've been toying with the idea of a kit because i've yet to see anyone do it. something moderate at first but then might get a bit crazy his s10 is roughly 1.4k hp and about half of that is from nos

 

ok update: I took the block and crank to the shop last friday and they put em in the vat and said they would work on them monday. well this morning I get a phone call saying that they bored it .030 over but when they checked it one cylinder was .035 . they said they could bore it .040 over on all of them or get me a different block, I told them to just make it .040 because I haven't ordered any parts yet.

just got another call right after hitting submit >.< they got it right this time. now to order parts.

quick question for someone that has raised their compression ratio. if you had to pick for my setup what would be a good streetable compression ratio to run? stock 9:1? 10? 11?

 

If you plan on doing boost down the ropad, go stock. If you want to run a stout NA engine, go 10. Heck, you are getting a new rotating assembly, and if you are getting ARP rod bolts, you can go 11:1. But expect to pay for premium fuel all the time. To me, running 93 octane is not that bad, because a 10 gallon fill-up runs 3 dollars more (30 cents of a difference from 87 to 93). SO it matters very little to me. I go through only 10 gallons a week (less if I can ride my motorcycle to work every day) so gas prioces don't really hit me that hard. Now, if you are commuting a lot or the truck is used for a business, you might want to reconsider.

Go with what your gut tells you, not your *****. You don't want to do something that might break your engine.

Ease, stay stock comprtession. But if you are willing to measure PVC for a whole day...go 10 or 11. YOu would have to consider the lift on the new camshaft and the pistons. Personally, I would mess everything up. So my best recommendation would be stock.

 

I think I read iron heads earlier in your post. If so, 9.9:1 is the highest you can go bewfore serious detonation issues. If the heads are aluminum, you can add 1 point to that, so 10.9:1. My 408 runs 10.3 with alum. heads just fine. Oh yeah, make sure you're using high octane fuel the closer you get to the max or you;ll put a hole in your pistons by way of detonation!

 

well gas isn't really a concern for me I only drive about 15 miles a day to work and back and i've always ran 93 octane *plenum*

been doing my homework and if the numbers are right
9.6" deck height
6.123" rod length
3.58" stroke
with my new 4.040 bore
and the number in question is the combustion chamber size on the heads which is 63cc or 68cc depending on who you ask on a stock 360. if anyone knows what the correct cc is let me know because that is pretty important.

however here are the numbers Im coming up with.
with stock length rods, stroke, and a bore of 4.040 with a compressed head gasket at .054

flat top pistons with valve reliefs (+5cc)assuming 68cc combustion chamber
compression distance=1.660 leave .027 deck clearance with 10.4:1 CR
compression distance=1.670 leave .017 deck clearance with 10.6:1 CR
compression distance=1.675 leave .012 deck clearance with 10.7:1 CR

flat top pistons with valve reliefs (+5cc)assuming 63cc combustion chamber
compression distance=1.660 leave .027 deck clearance with 11.2:1 CR
compression distance=1.670 leave .017 deck clearance with 11.3:1 CR
compression distance=1.675 leave .012 deck clearance with 11.4:1 CR

running this post a bit long but I have a ton of info swirling around.
also I've always been told the gasket material type determined how high of a compression ratio you could run, and that iron/aluminum didn't really come into play. can you elaborate please? the link to the heads http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/p...d&partid=25495

 

Aluminum heads will dissapate heat much faster than a cast iron head will. This means that you can usually get away with one more point in compression before detonation becomes an issue again. Typically, iron heads can eun 10.0:1 compression before detonation issues, and aluminum can run 11.0:1. Anything above that may require higher octane gas than available at the pump. Get too high, and early detonation caused by heat will put a rod through a piston.

 

valves shouldn't get whacked the cam i'm looking at is the 264HR12 seems to be a popular choice around here. the lift is .480 on that one.
however... those thumpr cams sound absolutely sexy especially one with the .512 lift, heads say they can handle .6 or a bit more so I should be ok there and the pistons are going to have valve reliefs in them so I don't have to worry about those smacking one... this all depends on how well the camshaft gets degreed and naturally im going to let the machine shop do it so if it breaks something its on them