2nd Gen Ram Tech 1994-2001 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 1994 through 2001 Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.

Drake's rebuild thread

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 08-10-2010, 04:12 AM
TheGreatDrake's Avatar
TheGreatDrake
TheGreatDrake is offline
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: palestine, Tx
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Talking Drake's rebuild thread

Can't sleep tonight due to motor mod giddyness so here's the writeup for my rebuild. After 250k hard miles on my '99 ram and a few months of it running poorly and smoking I decided it was time to pull the heads. I thought they just needed to be rebuilt but the machine shop showed me that both heads were cracked in 6 places between the valves. Not wanting to put brand new heads on a very worn motor I began pulling the motor, several hours and beers later we had the transmission and block sitting in my garage. Now that I have the motor on the stand and torn down I'm glad its getting a full rebuild, the pistons and rings were worn, main and rod bearings are worn, and one of my cam bearings is torn up pretty bad. On the bright side the crankshaft looks fine, the wear pattern on all the bearings looks normal with the exception of the cam bearing, and my cylinder walls amazingly look perfect. I have all my parts ready to be ordered with just a few clicks so now all I need to do is take the block to the machine shop and have it checked before I buy parts for a busted block.

TL/DR version: motor smoked, heads cracked, getting rebuilt, HERE'S PICS!
Name:  DSCN0818.jpg
Views: 73
Size:  154.0 KB
Name:  DSCN0823.jpg
Views: 39
Size:  144.6 KB
Name:  DSCN0825.jpg
Views: 64
Size:  168.2 KB
Name:  DSCN0824.jpg
Views: 98
Size:  165.7 KB
 
  #2  
Old 08-10-2010, 04:29 AM
TheGreatDrake's Avatar
TheGreatDrake
TheGreatDrake is offline
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: palestine, Tx
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Current plans for the build are as follows:
bore .030 over
new KB pistons
new scat rods (can't decide on H or I beams)
comp cams 264HR-12
comp double roller timing set
comp magnum rockers and pushrods
clevite bearings all around
melling high flow oil pump
Hughes iron ram heads 2.02 intake 1.62 exhaust
Mopar lifters
m1 intake
Fastman tb
headers (long tube or shorties I need to see how they sound first)
sct
Mopar valve covers and air hat for dressup
and a new damn dash!
 
  #3  
Old 08-10-2010, 07:17 AM
dodgeman52's Avatar
dodgeman52
dodgeman52 is offline
Captain
Join Date: May 2010
Location: clayton, north carolina
Posts: 569
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

i might would get the airgap over the m1
 
  #4  
Old 08-10-2010, 09:47 AM
TheGreatDrake's Avatar
TheGreatDrake
TheGreatDrake is offline
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: palestine, Tx
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

they have almost identical gains, the m1 being a single plane and the air gap is a dual plane iirc. The idea was just to upgrade without getting too crazy high of a cost and I found the M1 a bit cheaper, that and I've read here that the fuel rails fit better on the M1.

but I'm open to any and all suggestions df has never lead me astray. if you can get me a really good reason why its better (or if you can find one cheaper) I'll go with that one.
 
  #5  
Old 08-10-2010, 09:50 AM
99DRAM31887's Avatar
99DRAM31887
99DRAM31887 is offline
Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: San Angelo,Texas
Posts: 336
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

looks like fun and sounds like it would be a blast i would love to do my own rebuild. I just havent had that my exp. doing that kinda mech. work lol
 
  #6  
Old 08-10-2010, 09:51 AM
TheGreatDrake's Avatar
TheGreatDrake
TheGreatDrake is offline
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: palestine, Tx
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

oh yeah! if anyone has yet to change their timing chain GO DO IT NOW! literally if it had another 1/4 inch of play in it I could have pulled the chain off without removing the sprocket.
 
  #7  
Old 08-10-2010, 09:58 AM
TheGreatDrake's Avatar
TheGreatDrake
TheGreatDrake is offline
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: palestine, Tx
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

well this is my first Truck motor rebuild I used to help my grandfather rebuild lawnmowers and tractors when he was still alive. same basic idea just a bit more involved. start slow and read as much as you can about it. it also helps to have friends that know motors and work for beer. I'll try and make this as detailed as possible just to help out anyone that is wanting to do their engine too.
 
  #8  
Old 08-10-2010, 10:50 AM
99DRAM31887's Avatar
99DRAM31887
99DRAM31887 is offline
Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: San Angelo,Texas
Posts: 336
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Thats great i also dont have the tools i need to do all the work.
 
  #9  
Old 08-10-2010, 11:28 AM
SplatSTi's Avatar
SplatSTi
SplatSTi is offline
Professional
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 212
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

This is an old school Tag
 
  #10  
Old 08-10-2010, 12:12 PM
CPTAFW163's Avatar
CPTAFW163
CPTAFW163 is offline
Champion
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Ft Campbell, KY/TN
Posts: 2,811
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by TheGreatDrake
they have almost identical gains, the m1 being a single plane and the air gap is a dual plane iirc. The idea was just to upgrade without getting too crazy high of a cost and I found the M1 a bit cheaper, that and I've read here that the fuel rails fit better on the M1.

but I'm open to any and all suggestions df has never lead me astray. if you can get me a really good reason why its better (or if you can find one cheaper) I'll go with that one.
DITCH THE MOPAR LIFTERS AND ROCKERS:

GEt Rhoades Lifters and 1.6 roller rockers:

Rhoades Lifters:
http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/p...=&partid=23632

ROller Rockers:
http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/p...=&partid=25405

Also, you will need to buy different pushrods with that cam and the 1.6 roller rockers. Call hughes. THey are 98 dollars.

So, you have about 800 dollars in my post...are you sure you want to do all that?

WHy not just get a rear mount turbo on a stock setup running 6PSI?
 


Quick Reply: Drake's rebuild thread



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:04 PM.