new motor with cam, does it need a tune?
#12
ughhh! i guess ill be adding another 400 bones to the new motor tab.... do you hav any suggestions for the cam specs- i want as much of a power increase as possible (also i wuldnt mind a couple ponies above 2k) while keeping it a daily driver. im getting a hughes airgap as well. and id love to hear it lope a little if possible
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8q28Z...feature=search
Last edited by trucklover; 09-04-2011 at 12:34 PM.
#13
I attached my cam specs. This cam has a decent lope to it, but you really need the heads, intake, high flow exhaust, stall and especially gears to make it work. I am running stock gears now, and the truck definitely is better than stock but I am not seeing the full potential of the engine due to being out of the powerband. The SCT is a must have...!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8q28Z...feature=search
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8q28Z...feature=search
#14
#15
As far as cam and valvetrain are concerned you have to look at what the cam is based off of. Mine is based off 1.6 rr's so that's what I went with. You could use 1.7's but that will increase the lift and mean other changes as far as springs. Also you will probably have to get new springs no matter what you do. The point of the cam is for increased lift so your stock springs may not handle the new cams specs.
I have a 2300 TC and it basically drives like normal. You don't need to rev it to 2300 for it to move. Not like some of the ones in old cars where they are screaming before they will move lol
I have a 2300 TC and it basically drives like normal. You don't need to rev it to 2300 for it to move. Not like some of the ones in old cars where they are screaming before they will move lol
#16
As far as cam and valvetrain are concerned you have to look at what the cam is based off of. Mine is based off 1.6 rr's so that's what I went with. You could use 1.7's but that will increase the lift and mean other changes as far as springs. Also you will probably have to get new springs no matter what you do. The point of the cam is for increased lift so your stock springs may not handle the new cams specs.
I have a 2300 TC and it basically drives like normal. You don't need to rev it to 2300 for it to move. Not like some of the ones in old cars where they are screaming before they will move lol
I have a 2300 TC and it basically drives like normal. You don't need to rev it to 2300 for it to move. Not like some of the ones in old cars where they are screaming before they will move lol
#17
It's geared more towards the punching the gas and taking off then the normal daily driving I think. I think it might change your shifts too not 100% on that though.
It somehow is suppose to help performance, honestly I don't know how. The stock tc is junk from what I hear so that's why I upgraded
It somehow is suppose to help performance, honestly I don't know how. The stock tc is junk from what I hear so that's why I upgraded
#18
Torque converters multiply torque, up to their stall speed, at, and above stall speed, it is a one to one correlation. Having a slightly higher than stock stall speed allows your engine to rev it bit more when taking off, thus, getting the engine higher into the power band. (even more torque.)
The really high stall speed converters are indeed geared more toward high horsepower, high RPM applications. Going a bit higher than stock on your truck, will give you a bit more grunt out of the hole. So, if you do heavy towing, or load your truck down, the extra grunt getting started will certainly be helpful.
The really high stall speed converters are indeed geared more toward high horsepower, high RPM applications. Going a bit higher than stock on your truck, will give you a bit more grunt out of the hole. So, if you do heavy towing, or load your truck down, the extra grunt getting started will certainly be helpful.
#19
BUT keep in mind if you tow you don't wanna go to much above your stock stall.
I had talked to a few people about this and mentioned towing and was told I would be fine with a 2600. After placing my order with PATC they called me back and said he would go with the 2300 for towing. I don't tow often but didn't want to have a mishap when I do so I went with his suggestion
I had talked to a few people about this and mentioned towing and was told I would be fine with a 2600. After placing my order with PATC they called me back and said he would go with the 2300 for towing. I don't tow often but didn't want to have a mishap when I do so I went with his suggestion
#20
Torque converters multiply torque, up to their stall speed, at, and above stall speed, it is a one to one correlation. Having a slightly higher than stock stall speed allows your engine to rev it bit more when taking off, thus, getting the engine higher into the power band. (even more torque.)
The really high stall speed converters are indeed geared more toward high horsepower, high RPM applications. Going a bit higher than stock on your truck, will give you a bit more grunt out of the hole. So, if you do heavy towing, or load your truck down, the extra grunt getting started will certainly be helpful.
The really high stall speed converters are indeed geared more toward high horsepower, high RPM applications. Going a bit higher than stock on your truck, will give you a bit more grunt out of the hole. So, if you do heavy towing, or load your truck down, the extra grunt getting started will certainly be helpful.