ok i have my moose hunt in 20 days, and need to get some stuff done on the truck...

one being the timing chain

i have 203,950 miles, and i dont know if its been changed...

well my question is, that since the timing chain it on keyweights, and has punch marks in the chain, the sproket gears can go on only one way...so i can i just take the only chain out, and put the new one back in the exact way as the old chain, making sure everything was in the same spot as the old chain? or do i need to put it to TDC etc....


Also whats the difference between a double roller, and a regular timing set? any modifactations needed for the double roller?



ive done timing chains before...just want the skip the BS...

 

(editted some)
clean the face of the sprocket and find the DOTS, not lines as sheriff shows later. mark them clearly. verify again they are dots.
rotate engine such that the dots are aligned...
crank dot up, cam dot down.
this is not TDC, it doesn't matter.
remove old.
DO NOT rotate engine while chain is off.
install new. it is key'ed only fits one way.



edit i called this a single roller. incorrect. see below.

(wrong - single roller is a wide sprocket)
right - double roller is 2 narrow sprockets welded together. not worth any extra money in my opinion. the pic below is a cloyes C3072 i think.

 

i got the single cloyes too. u have to change the oil after u do it bc u have to drop the oil pan down

 

Thats a morse (inverted tooth) chain. Not a roller at all.

 

When dhvaughan says not to rotate the engine he means the crank or the cam. The cam should turn pretty easy with the chain off so be careful.
If you do then the timing will be off.

 

If you make the dots line up as Vaughan suggests you are at #6 cylinder TDC.

My guess is that if the chain is very loose, the cam will need to be moved about a 1/16" of an inch to get the marks to line up dead perfect. Slack chain can let the cam "walk around" on the true correct timing relation to the crankshaft.

Just be sure that with the old chain the crank dot is at true 12 o'clock and the the cam dot is as close as you can get it to 6 o'clock before you take the chain off. Then put the new one on with the crank gear dot straight up and you may need to move the cam ever so slightly to get the keyway to line up perfectly. Then check both dots for trueness.

There should be one tooth on the cam gear that looks like it would match perfectly with the space between two teeth on the crank gear if you were to drop the cam gear straight down.

Vaughan's pic shows that very well, even though his old *** painted crooked lines. You should see his toenails, he might as well dip them in the paint

 

If you want to get the motor at TDC like the book says to do then keep in mind that the stock gears have a dot and a line on them. I didn't know that until I took them off and wiped the crud away.


I couldn't figure out why the new gears were 180º off until I looked at the old gears that I took off.

 

Man Sheriff, that's a lot of burned on sludge. Id hate to see what your heads look like under the valve covers.

What's the mileage on your Ram? What type of motor oil you been running? Do a lot of short trip driving? I only ask because my engine never gets that dirty/crusty and I'm curious as to what you do differently... I'm on 103,000 and opened the engine up several times and not seen that level of crust. Run dino and syn oils through it.

 

nice pic sheriff. i marked and lined up the dots and never even noticed the lines.

 

Got it at 74k, now have 130k. Had something like 125k when that picture was taken. Ran full synthetic (Quaker State for half of the oil changes, Valvoline for the other half) for about 50k. I've got a bottle of Pennzoil dino oil waiting on the next oil change because cmckenna brought up the point that he sees a lot of sludge with synthetic but hardly any with dino.

You wonder about under the valve covers:



And here's the lifter valley, the only picture I have that doesn't have paper towels stuffed in it.


And under the timing cover