My truck hates me.
#11
09-07-2010, 02:30 PM
Record Breaker
The element inside the case collapsed and the result was a plugged filter.
#12
09-07-2010, 02:33 PM
I had a honda that the oil pressure regulator (internal to the pump....) got stuck. I had a couple perfectly spherical oil filters, blown out at the seam.
That was a fun fix........
#13
09-07-2010, 03:33 PM
Record Breaker
#14
09-07-2010, 05:23 PM
Hall Of Fame
Not to open this can of worms again, but... this was never proven to be a scientific fact. All we have are a few people's words against a lot of other people's words.
True that our engines don't need synthetic oil, but they can run better with it. Whether its worth the extra cost is up to opinion, but its been proven to help with power and gas mileage, albeit only slightly. Synthetic oil in the differentials, however, has been proven to increase MPGs by 2+ in some cases. I experienced only slight gains by switching to synthetic, and no MPG gains by putting Royal Purple synthetic oil in my differentials, for example. Results may vary.
The only "fact" that 99% of people seem to agree on about the benefits of synthetic is the ability to go longer between oil changes.
The bottom line is... I doubt it did anything with "crud". However, dino oil vs synthetic should not cause that fluctuation in oil pressure. Now, mine does that all the time. Most of the time, its at the 3/4 mark on the gauge, but it sometimes (especially after its warmed up) goes down to the 1/4 mark. Whether its the sender or the oil pump or whatever, as long as it doesn't approach the extreme of either side of the gauge, I'm happy.
True that our engines don't need synthetic oil, but they can run better with it. Whether its worth the extra cost is up to opinion, but its been proven to help with power and gas mileage, albeit only slightly. Synthetic oil in the differentials, however, has been proven to increase MPGs by 2+ in some cases. I experienced only slight gains by switching to synthetic, and no MPG gains by putting Royal Purple synthetic oil in my differentials, for example. Results may vary.
The only "fact" that 99% of people seem to agree on about the benefits of synthetic is the ability to go longer between oil changes.
The bottom line is... I doubt it did anything with "crud". However, dino oil vs synthetic should not cause that fluctuation in oil pressure. Now, mine does that all the time. Most of the time, its at the 3/4 mark on the gauge, but it sometimes (especially after its warmed up) goes down to the 1/4 mark. Whether its the sender or the oil pump or whatever, as long as it doesn't approach the extreme of either side of the gauge, I'm happy.
To be a Synthetic Oil it has to meet specific guidelines, and with those guidelines comes better detergents. If you use Fully Synthetics you wouldn't have and grime in it to begin with. It's what I use.
#15
09-07-2010, 09:57 PM
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Location: Chesapeake, VA
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The gauge was acting perfectly normal today. I have no idea what happened to it to make it act so weird.
However, I'm convinced this truck doesn't like me like I like it.
Got a call from work tonight asking me to come in at 7AM tomorrow and drive 45 miles away, I was like sure, whatever. I go to get gas and WHAM as I'm turning (or attempting) right out of the parking lot, my steering wheel acted like it couldn't turn right. Yes, I have power steering fluid. If I'm hitting the gas when I turn, yes it goes. But going from a dead stop, it's a manual turn 100% of the way.
Saturday, my fiance put Dex III/M Automatic Transmission Fluid in it from Advanced Auto Parts.
Now this.
I swear, my truck is on my last nerve.
I called a friend of mine who now believes it's something with either my power steering gear box or my tie rods. His belief of this is based on the fact that I can easily turn left, but not right.
Anyone??
However, I'm convinced this truck doesn't like me like I like it.
Got a call from work tonight asking me to come in at 7AM tomorrow and drive 45 miles away, I was like sure, whatever. I go to get gas and WHAM as I'm turning (or attempting) right out of the parking lot, my steering wheel acted like it couldn't turn right. Yes, I have power steering fluid. If I'm hitting the gas when I turn, yes it goes. But going from a dead stop, it's a manual turn 100% of the way.
Saturday, my fiance put Dex III/M Automatic Transmission Fluid in it from Advanced Auto Parts.
Now this.
I swear, my truck is on my last nerve.
I called a friend of mine who now believes it's something with either my power steering gear box or my tie rods. His belief of this is based on the fact that I can easily turn left, but not right.
Anyone??
#16
09-07-2010, 10:40 PM
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I wasn't going to respond to this thread but I keep reading and I so have to say something!! There are so many people that are brand specific when it comes to oil and such. But truth betold if you maintain your vehicle like its supposed to be and not neglect it there is little difference between most oils. With that said some are more neglect forgiving like synthetics!! As for Fram ya well have used them for years with no problems what so ever!! Then again you can always find someone out there who has had a problem with everything nothing is 100% Just my opinion...
#17
09-07-2010, 11:50 PM
Grand Champion
My first power steering failure came on a '68 Coronet 440 (that wasn't yet ten years old). I was entering the Century Freeway in Los Angeles during late rush hour on a Friday night and caught a sweet shot all the way to the fast lane. I tickled the pedal as I began to merge, then WHAM! the steering wheel turned full lock left and would not budge. So off we went to bang into the concrete center divider. The valve stuck open rather than closed, so after removing the power steering belt I was able to drive safely home with a new dent and a freaked out girlfriend. Three seconds either way and we'd have been in a very serious accident.
Don't fool with it. Get it fixed.
#18
09-07-2010, 11:55 PM
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The power steering is a hydrolic system that will not operate as well without the wheels moving, but will typically be intermittent before it goes out, ie turn smooth while moving and then get hard for a moment. If it is only having problems in one direction, I would look more to the steering box. This is where the mechanical power of the steering wheel is transferred to the suspension with hydrolic pressure provided by the power steering pump. Incorrect lash here can cause binding, but they don't fail often without serious abuse.
Does the idle change when it get difficult to turn? this would point to power steering pump issues. Also, jack up the fropnt end and "shake it down." Move the wheel in and out like you were steering from the outside, and watch your pitman arm, and tie rod ends. If you get more movement at one part of a joint that another, there's a problem.
Does the idle change when it get difficult to turn? this would point to power steering pump issues. Also, jack up the fropnt end and "shake it down." Move the wheel in and out like you were steering from the outside, and watch your pitman arm, and tie rod ends. If you get more movement at one part of a joint that another, there's a problem.
#20
09-08-2010, 10:42 PM
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The power steering is a hydrolic system that will not operate as well without the wheels moving, but will typically be intermittent before it goes out, ie turn smooth while moving and then get hard for a moment. If it is only having problems in one direction, I would look more to the steering box. This is where the mechanical power of the steering wheel is transferred to the suspension with hydrolic pressure provided by the power steering pump. Incorrect lash here can cause binding, but they don't fail often without serious abuse.
Does the idle change when it get difficult to turn? this would point to power steering pump issues. Also, jack up the fropnt end and "shake it down." Move the wheel in and out like you were steering from the outside, and watch your pitman arm, and tie rod ends. If you get more movement at one part of a joint that another, there's a problem.
Does the idle change when it get difficult to turn? this would point to power steering pump issues. Also, jack up the fropnt end and "shake it down." Move the wheel in and out like you were steering from the outside, and watch your pitman arm, and tie rod ends. If you get more movement at one part of a joint that another, there's a problem.
Hopefully this ends my truck's bad luck streak, I'd really like to be able to drive for more than a week without problems.