Got my Hughes plate.
Can you guys help build a checklist and offer tips that made your install easier.

-Tools (basic, nothing special)
-new antifreeze
-kegger gasket
-kegger bolts
-new belt while im at it
-new t-stat
-new coolant bypass hose
-black rtv
-blue locktite

Can any coolant get into the engine if I do this wrong?
Do I drain the coolant out of the radiator? or is there a plug on the block like some old chevys?

 

Just draining the radiator should be adequate.... doing an oil change before firing the engine would be a good plan though.

Edit: Also, doing cap/rotor while the intake is out of the way is a very good plan. It isn't ever going to be easier to get to.

 

I take it you have not done the repair before yourself. Use a block drain plug too if possible, otherwise coolant will end up EVERYWHERE when you pull the intake.

Here is what I bought.



I also bought a can of seafoam and ran it through the night before I did the repair at my buddies house.

I also recommend grabbing some 3/8 hose to plug onto the radiator when you drain it to save you from a mess lol.



Also recommend removing the fan clutch... makes it so much easier (once you get it off hahaha). I used the two bolt method (in the pulley holes) and use a breaker bar between the bolts to hold the pulley in place. Then I used an adjustable with a pipe on the end and she came off like a hot knife through butter. Get the right tools if you can though... I just used what I had.



Like HeyYou said, this is a great time to do a tuneup. I did new plugs, wires, cap, rotor even though I just did it two years ago. Went with the duralast cap because it has a 5 year warranty... Went with the taylor wires because the mopar performance wires were a little tight.



Here was my summit cap after 2 years... sheesh


Anyway... the overall process isn't bad. I used a shop vac to suck most of the coolant that went into the valley back out. The rest was drained from the oil pan. I ran the conventional oil through with a new filter for less than a day to grab that last bit of stuff, then swapped to my usual synthetic.

Things you may want to consider

TB gasket
Intake gaskets (you just have kegger listed)
razor blades (to scrap old gaskets)
pcv valve
front o2 sensor
NEW INTAKE BOLTS (not pan) Mine were coroded pretty bad and I actually broke one.
Carb Cleaner (I prefer 2+2, but the walmart stuff is not bad at all)
plugs, wires, cap, rotor, etc
new coolant upper hose

If i think of anything else ill let you know.

 

Guess I should have mentioned, I already have done a full tune up.
(cap, rotor, wires, front o2, pcv, tps, ect.)
ordered new intake bolts too, from hughes.

 

there are 2 block drain plugs. hex head pipe plugs. one on each side, hiding behind the engine mounts. they're tight. clamp some good vise grips or a 6 point socket to prevent it from rounding off. use some teflon tape or liquid when reinstalling and don't overtorque. snug is good enough.

you'll need a 3/8" fuel line disconnect to remove the fuel line from the rail. the cheap plastic $3 one is good enough.

 

I just did mine.. I highly recommend the fuel line disconnect.. It makes life easier.. I pulled the intake completely apart the first time to polish the fuel bosses and cut the runners.. the second time I just popped the fuel line disconnects..

 

To save time and a headache, leave the fuel rail and injectors mounted to the intake, no need to take them off when removing the intake unless they were leaking or something.

 

Good time to think about timing chain and water pump also, since everything is off. Some clean rags or shop towels work great over the galley when you scrape the gasket off. If you take the fuel injectors out, get new o-rings...they are very cheap. (dont forget to put the clips back on the injectors, or you will have a fire) Take the fan shroud out with the fan also, it will open up gobs of room...and if you are skinny like me, you can stand between the radiator and block. A small dab of super glue works good to keep the intake gaskets in place. Carb cleaner or brake cleaner to clean it up.

An ice cold case of beer helps immensely also! Or some ice cold soda if you're not of age lol

 

I didn't have any coolant get into the engine and all I did was pop the bottom radiator hose off to drain it.

If you have an air compressor you should blow out the space between the valve covers and the intake manifold before you start so you don't get any dirt in the engine.

Definitely do like pcfixerpro and lay all your tools on the cowl then climb into the engine. Leaning over the fender for as long as it will take you would not be pleasant for your knees.

Start in the morning unless you have a garage, working in the dark sucks unless you have a bright light and a fan to blow the bugs away.

 

a picnic table pulled up to the front bumper is also a good place to put tools, as well as the parts you remove.