Death Wobble..HELP!
no! the outer portion of the stabilizers need to be on the linkage and th inner bolted to the axle thats the best way to do it because it spreads the force accross the linkage instead of focusing it towards the center.
It sounds to me like you don't like the extra expense, that is my style too! Now for my fix. Shop owners give your opinions but trust me it works flawlessly. Go with a straight track bar. I am driving a '95 Ram with a
6" DC long arm susp, bought from a cousin. It had the original track bar on when I got it and it had horrible death wobble. I run 39.5" IROKS. First trip out on the trails, got it stuck and actually broke the track bar in half. Bad experience turned out to be great results. After looking at this thing for a couple days, I just couldn't see how one of these S-shaped bars were going to last. I checked clearance thoroughly and decided I could use a STRAIGHT BAR with no issues. Went to a friend's machine shop and found the solid steel rod the same diameter of the track bar. tapped one end w/ standard thread, didn't have a left-hand tap for the other end so we cut about 6" from the needed end, turned the steel rod down to slide into the original end and welded. it has heim joints on both ends(cheap ones, not Johnny's), and it is easily adjustable. My lift does have about a 2" drop on the upper but don't know if it is really necessary for my application.
Before I welded the rear D70, I would drive it to the trails via interstate easily at 65 mph. I have had it to 70+ just to see how it would do and no issues.
NO WOBBLE SINCE!!!!
My truck is dedicated to the trails now but I would personally run it on a street truck if I were having issues. And I am not opposed to checking all the links and joints to be sure they are in good working condition.
Hopefully my pics will load and you can see what I have. I can get better if you would like.
6" DC long arm susp, bought from a cousin. It had the original track bar on when I got it and it had horrible death wobble. I run 39.5" IROKS. First trip out on the trails, got it stuck and actually broke the track bar in half. Bad experience turned out to be great results. After looking at this thing for a couple days, I just couldn't see how one of these S-shaped bars were going to last. I checked clearance thoroughly and decided I could use a STRAIGHT BAR with no issues. Went to a friend's machine shop and found the solid steel rod the same diameter of the track bar. tapped one end w/ standard thread, didn't have a left-hand tap for the other end so we cut about 6" from the needed end, turned the steel rod down to slide into the original end and welded. it has heim joints on both ends(cheap ones, not Johnny's), and it is easily adjustable. My lift does have about a 2" drop on the upper but don't know if it is really necessary for my application.
Before I welded the rear D70, I would drive it to the trails via interstate easily at 65 mph. I have had it to 70+ just to see how it would do and no issues.
NO WOBBLE SINCE!!!!
My truck is dedicated to the trails now but I would personally run it on a street truck if I were having issues. And I am not opposed to checking all the links and joints to be sure they are in good working condition.
Hopefully my pics will load and you can see what I have. I can get better if you would like.
Last edited by KY BIGRAM; Oct 2, 2010 at 01:21 AM.
Well the expense wouldnt be so bad if it wasnt more for labor then I would be paying for parts..I probably should have took it to another mechanic but I decided to just see if I could find help on here. I just cant stand for my truck to sit anymore, I havent been able to get my truck out and drive it in the 3-4 weeks and I cant stand it so I gotta fix it ASAP
If you can change a fender, you can do my swap without issues. It does depend on your lift however. Get a broom stick or something straight and see if it will clear, jack the truck up on both sides to check while it is flexed. If you have like a 3" lift w/ spacers, it may not work for you. My truck still drives great and i beat the crap out of it.
You DO NOT want a straight track bar on a street driven rig. The bend is is there for a reason.
Ashley, you do not need to change your steering stabilizers or fabricate a track bar. You DO need to check for play in the steering components and track bar. You also need to torque the control arms, track bar, and track bar drop bracket.
If that doesn't fix things, look at getting a HD adjustable track bar and ditch the drop bracket.
Ashley, you do not need to change your steering stabilizers or fabricate a track bar. You DO need to check for play in the steering components and track bar. You also need to torque the control arms, track bar, and track bar drop bracket.
If that doesn't fix things, look at getting a HD adjustable track bar and ditch the drop bracket.



