Hs 1.7 rr
#11
![Default](https://dodgeforum.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I am going to doubble check my firing order. Mabyee i crossed the plug wires or something. Also how soon did you guys notice a difference with them installed. I have not noticed anything yet. It just seems to rev a little quicker but thats about it. Mabyee it take some miles before the pcm can learn i don't know.
#14
#15
![Default](https://dodgeforum.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
This is the first time I've ever heard of leaving the guides IN for the part the original poster installed (which is the same one I installed a few weeks ago).
It took me a while and lots of turns of the crank to get 'em torqued down right, and I split the difference between what different instructions stated. Some said 21/ftlbs some said 26/ftlbs- I did 23.
So, when I first read this I second guessed myself and was about to start digging for more info, but then I thought "self", I thought, "that truck is running great!... There is nothing wrong with that install!"
Now, I ran into two things nobody ever mentioned before. One: the factory rockers are floggin' BUNCHES tighter than 26ft/lbs. Like, likely 80ft/lbs. It was so much more I questioned the instructions and went back to study. I'm not sure what the OEM rockers deal were, but at 23ft/lbs, and on the provided pedestals, they are quiet and smooth throughout the rpm range I've put them through.
Second: I had the death flash. Before reflashing, the engine seemed more responsive sitting still, but seemed to bog down some while in motion. Hemifever hooked me up with an SCT, and I wiped the death flash and replaced it with the 93 tune. The difference was instantly noticeable in every way.
I'm thinking if you're plagued w/ death flash, the engine (pcm) may not know what to do with the ratio change, and may remain in constant flux between baseline and attempting alterations. That's just a guess though.
The biggest concern I would have if I were you, is if you allowed the rods to seat properly. There is a slight chance one wasn't, and there is a chance you could have bent a rod- slight chance, but if its as out of kilter as you are describing, I might go check for that. Catch it really early and it won't be THAT big a deal.
I gotta say it too- to the guy talkin about guides even if it pisses folks off: dude, know of what you speak before you give folks an opportunity to eff their ride up. Its just a simple mistake to you, it could be a huge deal to someone else- and all because you flapped your gums about something you speak authoritative about when you're straight wrong.
It took me a while and lots of turns of the crank to get 'em torqued down right, and I split the difference between what different instructions stated. Some said 21/ftlbs some said 26/ftlbs- I did 23.
So, when I first read this I second guessed myself and was about to start digging for more info, but then I thought "self", I thought, "that truck is running great!... There is nothing wrong with that install!"
Now, I ran into two things nobody ever mentioned before. One: the factory rockers are floggin' BUNCHES tighter than 26ft/lbs. Like, likely 80ft/lbs. It was so much more I questioned the instructions and went back to study. I'm not sure what the OEM rockers deal were, but at 23ft/lbs, and on the provided pedestals, they are quiet and smooth throughout the rpm range I've put them through.
Second: I had the death flash. Before reflashing, the engine seemed more responsive sitting still, but seemed to bog down some while in motion. Hemifever hooked me up with an SCT, and I wiped the death flash and replaced it with the 93 tune. The difference was instantly noticeable in every way.
I'm thinking if you're plagued w/ death flash, the engine (pcm) may not know what to do with the ratio change, and may remain in constant flux between baseline and attempting alterations. That's just a guess though.
The biggest concern I would have if I were you, is if you allowed the rods to seat properly. There is a slight chance one wasn't, and there is a chance you could have bent a rod- slight chance, but if its as out of kilter as you are describing, I might go check for that. Catch it really early and it won't be THAT big a deal.
I gotta say it too- to the guy talkin about guides even if it pisses folks off: dude, know of what you speak before you give folks an opportunity to eff their ride up. Its just a simple mistake to you, it could be a huge deal to someone else- and all because you flapped your gums about something you speak authoritative about when you're straight wrong.
#16
![Default](https://dodgeforum.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
+1.... I don't think he has a bent pushrod though, there would be some not so good noise going on also. On a side note, the HS install directions tell you to remove the guide plates, period. Not, if this or if that. The directions even go as far as saying the rockers are designed to be used without the guides.
#17
![Default](https://dodgeforum.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
lmao.
Simply remove the factory rockers and rocker stands and replace with your new Harland Sharp roller rockers. We recommend always checking for head & valve cover clearance and proper lifter preload.
know where does it say to remove the GP. Again glad it is "running fine" for you. Wonder why so many on these forums have a noisy valvetrain after install when torqued to factory spec of 21ft-lbs as per instructions. Torqueing them down tighter brings rockers closer to proper lash. Yes they are ford ped mount rocker. No iam not going to replace a ped mount with a ped mount. Whats the point? I run the comp 1425 with there GP'S.
Simply remove the factory rockers and rocker stands and replace with your new Harland Sharp roller rockers. We recommend always checking for head & valve cover clearance and proper lifter preload.
know where does it say to remove the GP. Again glad it is "running fine" for you. Wonder why so many on these forums have a noisy valvetrain after install when torqued to factory spec of 21ft-lbs as per instructions. Torqueing them down tighter brings rockers closer to proper lash. Yes they are ford ped mount rocker. No iam not going to replace a ped mount with a ped mount. Whats the point? I run the comp 1425 with there GP'S.
#19
![Default](https://dodgeforum.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
lmao.
Simply remove the factory rockers and rocker stands and replace with your new Harland Sharp roller rockers. We recommend always checking for head & valve cover clearance and proper lifter preload.
know where does it say to remove the GP. Again glad it is "running fine" for you. Wonder why so many on these forums have a noisy valvetrain after install when torqued to factory spec of 21ft-lbs as per instructions. Torqueing them down tighter brings rockers closer to proper lash. Yes they are ford ped mount rocker. No iam not going to replace a ped mount with a ped mount. Whats the point? I run the comp 1425 with there GP'S.
Simply remove the factory rockers and rocker stands and replace with your new Harland Sharp roller rockers. We recommend always checking for head & valve cover clearance and proper lifter preload.
know where does it say to remove the GP. Again glad it is "running fine" for you. Wonder why so many on these forums have a noisy valvetrain after install when torqued to factory spec of 21ft-lbs as per instructions. Torqueing them down tighter brings rockers closer to proper lash. Yes they are ford ped mount rocker. No iam not going to replace a ped mount with a ped mount. Whats the point? I run the comp 1425 with there GP'S.
#20
![Default](https://dodgeforum.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I was in the middle of saying the same thing. Once the bolt seats(it will torque properly), it does not matter if the spring has a thousand pounds pressure on it. Which BTW, is why except for getting the allen in the bolt without hitting the rocker, it is totally unnecessary to rotate the motor during installation.
And.... A comment on Roller Rockers:
You may notice that we remove the stock guide plates and did not reinstall them or any aftermarket ones. You may also note that some other manufacturers offer kits with and without guide plates. Some companies recommend using guide plates if the engine is going to run over 5500 rpm while some simply offer it as an option for those who want the extra insurance. The reason for this is that at high rpm a normal stud mounted rocker may actually turn on its stud, effectively coming off the valve and pushrod. This can cause serious engine failure as the pushrod is then allowed to fly around in the head and possibly take out other parts of the valvetrain. The guide plate prevents this by holding the pushrod in place and only allowing it to move up and down as it follows the lobes of the cam. In our case, the Harland Sharp rockers are paired together (intake and exhaust) on a shaft. Because they are shaft mounted, they cannot turn on their stud and thus there is no need for guide plates.
And.... A comment on Roller Rockers:
You may notice that we remove the stock guide plates and did not reinstall them or any aftermarket ones. You may also note that some other manufacturers offer kits with and without guide plates. Some companies recommend using guide plates if the engine is going to run over 5500 rpm while some simply offer it as an option for those who want the extra insurance. The reason for this is that at high rpm a normal stud mounted rocker may actually turn on its stud, effectively coming off the valve and pushrod. This can cause serious engine failure as the pushrod is then allowed to fly around in the head and possibly take out other parts of the valvetrain. The guide plate prevents this by holding the pushrod in place and only allowing it to move up and down as it follows the lobes of the cam. In our case, the Harland Sharp rockers are paired together (intake and exhaust) on a shaft. Because they are shaft mounted, they cannot turn on their stud and thus there is no need for guide plates.