Hs 1.7 rr
#21
OK guys after re-checking my firing order i did manage to cross the #8 and #6 plug wires, therefore causing that rough/vibrating feel the truck had while idling and driving down the road. Stupid me! **** i couldn't even power brake it, wheres before i could lite them up no problem. Once i crossed the wires back to there proper cylinders it is a night and day difference. Now i feel what you guys are talking about. Throttle response, and faster down bottom and through out the entire rpm range. Plus it drives smooth now. I apologize for making this thread so long, but I'm glad to know that you guys are out there to help.
BTW: Did any of you guys recheck the torque on your rocker arms after a certain amount of miles? Is it a good idea or is it not necessary. just wondering.
BTW: Did any of you guys recheck the torque on your rocker arms after a certain amount of miles? Is it a good idea or is it not necessary. just wondering.
#23
Dr. mopar I am glad you got things sorted out. now that you have, I have a question. I noticed in your pictures your heads were very clean, no sludge etc... what oil, filter and what are your oil change intervals? how many miles on your truck? the reason I ask is I just did my plenum and valve cover gaskets and I mine didn't look that good even after proper maintenance. Thanks.
I also notice you are running what looks like red injectors. any info on them?
I also notice you are running what looks like red injectors. any info on them?
Last edited by seabass202; 10-03-2010 at 07:43 PM. Reason: addn'l question
#24
those red injectors are stock for 2000/01 5.9s. Maybe even as early as 1998. I have a set if you want them. Leftover from when I went to FMS 24s
And there was no torque given for the roller rockers, so I checked what the torque was for the stock ones...and it was around 75 ft lbs. so I torqued mine to 50 Ft Lbs.
No valvetrain chatter. and they are pedestal mounted non adjustable, so i am not worried. It does not change any geometry.
And there was no torque given for the roller rockers, so I checked what the torque was for the stock ones...and it was around 75 ft lbs. so I torqued mine to 50 Ft Lbs.
No valvetrain chatter. and they are pedestal mounted non adjustable, so i am not worried. It does not change any geometry.
#25
I bought the truck about 3 1/2 years ago with 41,803 miles on it. I now have 48,600 on the meter. Since i bought it i have been running royal purple 10w40 oil and stock mopar oil filter. My oil change intervals are every 3,000 on the dot. When i bought it the oil was nasty and black. so i don't know what the other guy was running but i changed it as soon as i got home. I don't do a hole lot of driving so my truck sits in the driveway a lot of times. I use my work truck all week long for work cause i take it home. But i might start trying the royal purple oil filter as it looks a lot beefier and better filtration than the mopar ones. Plus it is engineered for use with synthetic oils and has the anti drain back valve. Check out royal purples web site to see the video on it. And yes the red injectors are factory just as CPTAFW163 said.
#27
I got to thinkin' about the rockers and the torque difference between stock rockers and the H&S.. and the guide plates too for what difference that makes..
I'm thinking the stock ones are basically bolting sheet metal to the heads.. there is nothing to crush, so the torque doesn't really matter as much (the H&S's are aluminum no? and they are thicker which gives the Aluminum opportunity to crush/crack).. the rocker ROLLERS aren't under that much stress whilst doing what they do- so ample torque to keep them connected should just about be all that's called for.. plus, they 'roll', which means they basically glide back and forth, up and down however you want to look at it, and just need something to pivot on (the attached pedestals).. the attached part isn't under huge stress at all.. it just needs to be attached to where it doesn't bounce off.. now that 'rod' attached partner roller, that thing is doing something opposite than the other, so it is going to help keep the other in place..
I'm thinkin' 21 is fine, and it matches up with the instructions.. and I don't think you need 'blue loc-tite' either..
I've been wrong before though.
at any rate, I went with 23ft/lbs and they are quiet as they can be.
I'm thinking the stock ones are basically bolting sheet metal to the heads.. there is nothing to crush, so the torque doesn't really matter as much (the H&S's are aluminum no? and they are thicker which gives the Aluminum opportunity to crush/crack).. the rocker ROLLERS aren't under that much stress whilst doing what they do- so ample torque to keep them connected should just about be all that's called for.. plus, they 'roll', which means they basically glide back and forth, up and down however you want to look at it, and just need something to pivot on (the attached pedestals).. the attached part isn't under huge stress at all.. it just needs to be attached to where it doesn't bounce off.. now that 'rod' attached partner roller, that thing is doing something opposite than the other, so it is going to help keep the other in place..
I'm thinkin' 21 is fine, and it matches up with the instructions.. and I don't think you need 'blue loc-tite' either..
I've been wrong before though.
at any rate, I went with 23ft/lbs and they are quiet as they can be.
#28
#29
#30
You, Boomer, were flat wrong.. It is your ego keeping you from saying that and maybe even applying an apology.. So your accusations are a direct reflection of your own personality.. and that is funny.. but I'm thinking you aren't the type to laugh at yourself very often..