starting issues
I hope I'm posting in the correct spot, if not, please forgive this newbie. Here is my issue: Dodge Ram 1500 4x4, 5.2L enginge, 5 speed manual tranny. Ok, the truck starts great first thing in the morning or after work when it has been sitting. I'm driving, no issues at all. I stop and go into the store, come out and it won't start. I usually have to sit for a time and it's never a specific amount of time, sometimes 20 minutes, sometimes and hour. The motor turns over, just won't start. I have replaced the coil, without result. Any ideas?
I was thinking one of those two sensors. Someone suggested the ignition control module, but times being hard, I want to make sure before spending $220 on one. As far as I can tell the fuel pump works. I know enough about mechanics to be dangerous haha. A couple of months ago, this was an issue and I put in a new clutch with a friend. During the process I had the crank sensor out and cleaned it off and the problem quit for awhile. I would have replaced it at the time, but the cost of the clutch kind of broke me.
I should also say I'm getting codes 12, 54 and 56- I think I'm reading 56 wrong and it means 55, there is no 56 in my manual. Not sure if I mentioned there is no Dodge dealer close by, AdvanceAuto, about my only option for parts in these parts doesn't carry the cam shaft sensor. A shade tree mech said that a faulty ignition control module could cause the same code, but when the truck is running, it runs great. Just wont start once it has been running, until it sits for some time.
Advance does carry the cam position sensor, but everyone lists it as secondary ignition coil or distributor pickup. a good thing about advance around here is that if they don't have it, they can get it with 1 day.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Distributor-Pickup-Assembly-BWD_18240270-P_200_R|GRPTUNEAMS_673776139___
what do those codes mean? i'm too lazy to look them up.
when it won't start, do you have spark at the plug. if not, could be a bad coil, failing when hot.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Distributor-Pickup-Assembly-BWD_18240270-P_200_R|GRPTUNEAMS_673776139___
what do those codes mean? i'm too lazy to look them up.
when it won't start, do you have spark at the plug. if not, could be a bad coil, failing when hot.
Last edited by dhvaughan; Oct 3, 2010 at 01:53 PM.
Advance does carry the cam position sensor, but everyone lists it as secondary ignition coil or distributor pickup. a good thing about advance around here is that if they don't have it, they can get it with 1 day.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Distributor-Pickup-Assembly-BWD_18240270-P_200_R|GRPTUNEAMS_673776139___
what do those codes mean? i'm too lazy to look them up.
when it won't start, do you have spark at the plug. if not, could be a bad coil, failing when hot.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Distributor-Pickup-Assembly-BWD_18240270-P_200_R|GRPTUNEAMS_673776139___
what do those codes mean? i'm too lazy to look them up.
when it won't start, do you have spark at the plug. if not, could be a bad coil, failing when hot.
12 is about the battery being disconnected recently, 56(55) end of codes, 54 is about no signal from cam shaft. I was just wondering if the cam shaft heating up would keep the truck from starting. Now, when it won't start, I'm usually alone so can't check the spark. I'll have to drag a friend with me to go for a drive. And thanks for the advanceauto link. Why wouldn't they know a cam shaft is called that? LOL All they tell me is they can't get one!!
since it restarts after a period of time (so far), i'd do one more test.
reset pcm to clear the codes.
drive it a little bit and recheck codes. hopefully see no 54.
drive it a little more and get it hot and wait for a failure to start.
check codes, hopefully see a 54.
if so, i would believe the code 54 and replace cam position sensor.
its only moderately expensive, but hard to get to. remove the air box to even see the damn distributor cap.
reset pcm to clear the codes.
drive it a little bit and recheck codes. hopefully see no 54.
drive it a little more and get it hot and wait for a failure to start.
check codes, hopefully see a 54.
if so, i would believe the code 54 and replace cam position sensor.
its only moderately expensive, but hard to get to. remove the air box to even see the damn distributor cap.
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I really appreciate the info. The price for the part isn't that bad. There were only 2 things that were stopping me from changing it. 1) Advance saying they didn't have it and couldn't get it-little did I know I called it one thing, they called it another 2) THE LOCATION!!! You can't even see the distributor!! I'll reset the pcm and go from there!!
You DO NOT want to go with their sensors. WHY? They are made by Borg Warner. BW= Junk.
GO WITH OEM on sensors only. If I haven't said this but numerous times, I do not recommend anyone using aftermarket sensors for, they rarely last or, rarely work and, once agian, they are not tested to ensure that they meet all OEM specs. I've tested BOTH CAM and CKPS sensors and, in all tests, not one worked on my truck. When installed, it was backfiring, popping, ran out of time, would not start at all etc etc. The best thing you can do is to go to the dealer and spend the money ONCE.
I also had to buy three IACs just to get one that worked consistently where, I could have paid a one time cost and had been done with it.
Now, there's also a few other issues that will also induce the same symptom- no starting under hot conditions and, that's usually indicitive of a failing fuel pump, failing fuel injectors that are leaking- failing IAC motor where, there's no airflow with the throttle plates closed to fouled plugs due to running way too rich thus, needing time to evaporate the wet fuel mix off the plugs in order to obtain ignition.
So, there's quite a few things that will induce the same failure here. Now, in your case, if you are getting that code for the CPS, there's a good chance that, when going hot, the sensor is not working or, is partially working.
Before condemning the CPS (CAMshaft Position Sensor), remove it and inspect the harness and connector end. Using a chemical De-oxidizing contact cleaner, clean BOTH the sensor and mating connector. Use a hair dryer or heat gun to thoroughly dry prior to reassembling. Do this for both CPS and CKPS sensors and retest.
Chances are, the connector is opening up due to being right on the valve cover / block.
If you don't know this already, the connectors are located on the driver-side, on the inside of the valve cover - near the dizzy sometimes as well.
CM
GO WITH OEM on sensors only. If I haven't said this but numerous times, I do not recommend anyone using aftermarket sensors for, they rarely last or, rarely work and, once agian, they are not tested to ensure that they meet all OEM specs. I've tested BOTH CAM and CKPS sensors and, in all tests, not one worked on my truck. When installed, it was backfiring, popping, ran out of time, would not start at all etc etc. The best thing you can do is to go to the dealer and spend the money ONCE.
I also had to buy three IACs just to get one that worked consistently where, I could have paid a one time cost and had been done with it.
Now, there's also a few other issues that will also induce the same symptom- no starting under hot conditions and, that's usually indicitive of a failing fuel pump, failing fuel injectors that are leaking- failing IAC motor where, there's no airflow with the throttle plates closed to fouled plugs due to running way too rich thus, needing time to evaporate the wet fuel mix off the plugs in order to obtain ignition.
So, there's quite a few things that will induce the same failure here. Now, in your case, if you are getting that code for the CPS, there's a good chance that, when going hot, the sensor is not working or, is partially working.
Before condemning the CPS (CAMshaft Position Sensor), remove it and inspect the harness and connector end. Using a chemical De-oxidizing contact cleaner, clean BOTH the sensor and mating connector. Use a hair dryer or heat gun to thoroughly dry prior to reassembling. Do this for both CPS and CKPS sensors and retest.
Chances are, the connector is opening up due to being right on the valve cover / block.
If you don't know this already, the connectors are located on the driver-side, on the inside of the valve cover - near the dizzy sometimes as well.
CM







