1998 biggest tire
not really. all of them are considered LT as opposed to P.
what is important is load range C vs D vs E.
that's the side wall strength, pressure, and load rating.
if you intend to ever haul or tow anything, go with a D or E.
what is important is load range C vs D vs E.
that's the side wall strength, pressure, and load rating.
if you intend to ever haul or tow anything, go with a D or E.
Fwiw: width is the issue, not height. 305 will fit, 315 will rub, provided we're talking same % sidewall.
Which prompts me to mention, because I'm not so sure folks know this after reading this and other threads-
300/75/16R would represent a tire 300 millimeters wide (tread width), that has a sidewall height of 75% the width (225mm) and is 16" in wheel diameter. The R means radial. Passenger car tires sometimes have a speed rating (temperature rating) and LT tires sometimes have a load rating (plies).
A lot of 'yawl know this, but I'm thinkin many don't. Figure this though: when you near 315mm width at 75, you're going to have to worry about rubbing.
Which prompts me to mention, because I'm not so sure folks know this after reading this and other threads-
300/75/16R would represent a tire 300 millimeters wide (tread width), that has a sidewall height of 75% the width (225mm) and is 16" in wheel diameter. The R means radial. Passenger car tires sometimes have a speed rating (temperature rating) and LT tires sometimes have a load rating (plies).
A lot of 'yawl know this, but I'm thinkin many don't. Figure this though: when you near 315mm width at 75, you're going to have to worry about rubbing.
Last edited by drewactual; Oct 9, 2010 at 11:13 PM.
well thanks for leting me know i alway though the first number is the height without the rim and then 75 was the % of the height as the width, and i would recomend getting d's just to be safe although when i got my last set i couldnt find any d's only c's or e's so i went with the e's
you can do what you want but i would recomend a suspension lift not a body lift, they are easy to do, some times cheaper and look cleaner and better, i could have done mine for about 50 bucks buyin/makin front coil spacers and rear lift blocks, but i decided to go with firestone airbags and a rough country add-a-leaf in the back since i do some haulin, and stayed with the coil spacers in the front
They do look better, but not cheaper...
depends on where you look, and how much lift you want. For three inches or less, the prices are pretty comparable, and the suspension lift is actually easier to install. Once you start getting over 3 inches, things start getting a bit more pricey though.
Given the choice between a suspension lift, or a body lift, with prices being about the same, the suspension lift would be the better choice.







