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Frustrated to the max with my Dodge..............

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Old Oct 11, 2010 | 02:12 PM
  #1  
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MaxPower1971
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Angry Frustrated to the max with my Dodge..............

F*** this ram up the A**!!!!!!!!!!


Ok I'm gonna try and keep this short without loosing my temper.....

1-I'm trying to do my camshaft position sensor. I can't even see the god damned distributor cap. I know they use a phillips head screw. one seems to be stripped. Do these things have a hex head as well or just the stupid screw head??? If so what size is it?? Is there an easy way to do this??

What posessed Dodge to manufacture such a POS with the distributor at the firewall????

Do I need to take the damned intake out to replace the cap??? WTF????? I'm a big guy, 6'0 350pds, right now my arms are torn to sh*t and bleeding from scraping around blind in there........

2- The reason I'm doing this is because the truck was always a little hard to start when the weather was cold or damp or rainy but now it just cranks and cranks and won't go in any weather. Keyswitch dance code retrieval procedure gave me code 54=no signal from camshaft position sensor.

First I call Dodge here in Montreal and they tell me my truck is NOT listed for a CPS. WHAT?????

So I go out and do the plugs, wires and coil....and posted a question on here about the CPS. Answer came from a very helpful member named dhvaughan told me it's a pick up coil. Cool...and thanx....and off I go to get the right part at Dodge and to tell them how stupid they were not to know what that code REALLY meant, and get a bit relieved that it's a breeze of a job.....N-O-EFFIN-T!!

Ok what I did so far:

plugs
wires
coil
put a little gas in TB=didn't even try to fire
feathered the gas pedal=no start
pushed the damned pedal to the floor=no f***ing start, not even a sputter

If I can get the "/&**?%?$%%? cap off I'll do rotor, cap and CPS.

Is there ANYTHING I can do to test this hunk o' crap before throwing a bunch of parts at it (other than buying a chevy duramax)???

Oh and BTW....last time it ran it stripped a wiper arm, (of course)...is there a jobber way of fixing this without changing the whole wiper transmission???? I really don't care if it burns the motor if the wiper is stuck, I just want it to work..


Sorry for the long post..and I guess I didn't keep my temper....I guess I should edit the second line of this post....sorry!

Oh....lol...forgot to mention 1994 2500 5.9 gas 4X4.

thanxs guys...and sorry again....
 
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Old Oct 11, 2010 | 02:23 PM
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No offense, and I know people on this site will argue with you until pigs fly, but most of these trucks really are built pretty crappy, and just about everything on them is a bad design. I will never buy another Dodge again with one exception. I'd like to have a 68-69 Dodge Charger. Other than that I will probably never buy a car or truck from any of the 3 American car companies. They just aren't up to par reliability wise with many foreign cars. The only reason I still have mine is I hate to sell something that I have $15,000 in parts alone in this truck so I hate to sell it for $2-3000 then buy a similar year Toyota for $8-9000. Plus I need a truck, but I hardly ever drive it. However, even hardly ever driving it, something breaks on this thing every few months. If I could get enough out of this thing to even come close to buying a similar year Toyota, this piece of crap would have been gone a long time ago. Unfortunately American cars don't really have any resale value either.

That being said, I didn't have that much trouble getting the distributor cap off. If I remember right they were hex screws so you could use a socket on them, but I can't remember for sure. I know I used a really short screw driver and didn't have any issues. You did remove the air filter assembly right? You have to remove all of that then you should be able to at least see it some. You don't have to remove the intake manifold.
 

Last edited by hometheaterman; Oct 11, 2010 at 02:25 PM.
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Old Oct 11, 2010 | 02:43 PM
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You know...as much as I hate it right now, my other dodges were always hard working and loyal....but I found myself looking at Tundras and even........fords lately( it still gives me chills just writing the name....yuk)....I had my mind set on a 2010 Cummins for next year, but I really start to wonder....


yes I pulled the air cleaner housing, and thanx for understanding my frustrations...
 
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Old Oct 11, 2010 | 03:02 PM
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I had no problem getting my cap off..... Get a small mirror and flashlight, they'll be your best friends while doing this.

Read this: https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...r-r-and-r.html
 
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Old Oct 11, 2010 | 03:11 PM
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Phillips head did not work for me . You can use a nut driver or 1/4 inch drive socket set . I believe 5/16ths is what you are looking for.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2010 | 03:12 PM
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wow....thank you for this VERY complete DIY guide....what a pain in the nutsak to get to....I am going out right now to try at it again....thanks so much!!
 
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Old Oct 11, 2010 | 03:31 PM
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I can't wait for the next post. NOW THE SCREW BROKE! LOL Some one needs to take a chill pill, or forget the cap and rotor and go buy that Yota.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2010 | 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by hometheaterman
No offense, and I know people on this site will argue with you until pigs fly, but most of these trucks really are built pretty crappy, and just about everything on them is a bad design. I will never buy another Dodge again with one exception. I'd like to have a 68-69 Dodge Charger. Other than that I will probably never buy a car or truck from any of the 3 American car companies. They just aren't up to par reliability wise with many foreign cars. The only reason I still have mine is I hate to sell something that I have $15,000 in parts alone in this truck so I hate to sell it for $2-3000 then buy a similar year Toyota for $8-9000. Plus I need a truck, but I hardly ever drive it. However, even hardly ever driving it, something breaks on this thing every few months. If I could get enough out of this thing to even come close to buying a similar year Toyota, this piece of crap would have been gone a long time ago. Unfortunately American cars don't really have any resale value either.

That being said, I didn't have that much trouble getting the distributor cap off. If I remember right they were hex screws so you could use a socket on them, but I can't remember for sure. I know I used a really short screw driver and didn't have any issues. You did remove the air filter assembly right? You have to remove all of that then you should be able to at least see it some. You don't have to remove the intake manifold.
It's all how you take care of your vehicle. Any car whether it be a POS from factory or the best car from factory will fall apart with out proper care.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2010 | 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by CappinHoff
It's all how you take care of your vehicle. Any car whether it be a POS from factory or the best car from factory will fall apart with out proper care.
couldnt have said it better myself! other than my honda's that ive owned this is by far the best truck ive ever driven, or owned.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2010 | 03:43 PM
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Cap and rotor isn't what you want to do if you're pissed off and have no patience. Zman you're probably right...next post, "oh snap..the god**** bolt broke!"
 
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