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im leaking gas

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Old Oct 30, 2010 | 06:56 PM
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dakotas ram
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Default im leaking gas

ive been smelling gas when i get out of my truck at times......looked around today and it seems to be sloshing out around the fuel pump i believe, ive never had to drop my tank or replace the pump yet, can i buy just the seal?
 
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Old Oct 30, 2010 | 06:59 PM
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Check the charcoal canister first. It should be right around in that neighborhood as well. Might be sucking gas right out of the tank. If that isn't it, check with a local auto parts store, and see if they have the gasket separately. Should be able to get it..... if not, the dealer should be able to. Can't be more than 20 bucks.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2010 | 11:17 PM
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the o-ring for the top of the pump is only like 5 bucks....i got one for my old Nissan 4x4 at the dealer, and cost me 4 bucks and change.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2010 | 01:34 AM
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from looking thru my wheelwell, it is at the top of the tank.......im gonna have to drop it, huh?
 
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Old Oct 31, 2010 | 01:46 AM
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Originally Posted by dakotas ram
from looking thru my wheelwell, it is at the top of the tank.......im gonna have to drop it, huh?
or take the bed off.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2010 | 08:35 AM
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Maybe you can reach up there and see if the ring is loose. I would be surprised if the gasket was bad if the lock ring is not loose.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2010 | 03:09 PM
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Default Fill tube

Any chance the filler tube rusted through? I was looking at the fill tube on my 98 and it is covered with major league rust. Large pieces of rust are falling off. It is not leaking yet. I'm considering replacing as preventive maintenance.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2010 | 05:35 PM
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no, i can see that it is at the top of the fuel pump
 
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Old Nov 1, 2010 | 12:35 AM
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I recently replaced my full pump. When dropping the tank, be VERY careful to unplug the clip to the pump, mine was very brittle and broke. After several attempts at the parts store with replacements, I ended up having to replace the entire rear section with the $75 factory line. I went ahead and pulled the bed after that, sanded and repainted the rear chassis and rearend. It was amazing how much rust that was going on. The complete fuel line was very rusty and ended up breaking when I tried to disconnect the front clip. It's a pain. If you feel it is the seal to the pump, I also would suggest trying to reach under and tighten the pump.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2010 | 09:07 AM
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The process of dropping the tank is actually very simple and quick. I've even done it with a full 35g tank without issue- many times in fact.

PROCESS:

Disconnect the NEG (-) on the BAT

-Depending on clearance- you may be able to sit up under the truck with your head and shoulders in between the tank and the body on the drivers side to gain access to the pump connections.

-Disconnect the smaller rubber hose from pump.

-Disconnect the electrical harness by sliding the orange / red safety clip to disengage I believe it slides towards the front of the vehicle. It does not come out all the way so, try to avoid pushing it out completely. A flat blade screw driver works in most cases.

-There's a square pad on the connector to which, you depress that to raise the other end over the tang.

-Wiggle the connector off the pump- should disengage completely at this point.

-FUEL LINE DISCONNECT:

There's two tangs that catch on the fuel line fitting- those two tabs must be pressed in to release the fuel line fitting. The line slides right off the pump once those are pressed in fully.

Next:

- FILLER HOSE: Loosen the 5/16 hose clamp and, remove it from the filler pipe.

NOTE: WRAP TAPE AROUND BOTH OPEN HOSES TO PREVENT DEBRIS FROM ENDING UP INSIDE THE TANK

- VENT HOSE: Same as above

-LOOSEN: TANK BRACKETS - 15MM

TANK REMOVAL PROCESS:

NOTE:

If the tank is full, use of a scissor lift / trans lift is beneficial but, in a pinch, I've done it myself without without one when full. It's much easier though with a cradle. ALSO, if attempting to use a floor jack to put the tank back in or, lower it, you will want to distribute the load by the use of a 2 by 6 to prevent the jack from collapsing the tank and causing damage to the pump housing.

With the tank supported, loosen and remove the bolts off the studs.

Using a pry-bar, pry straps off of studs.

Push the tank away from strap T-slots.

Remove tank straps

Lower tank and remove from under vehicle

Remove the retaining ring off the fuel pump

Lift pump straight up. NOTE: there's an arm for the fuel pump level sending unit which, will get caught in the tank. You will have to maneuver the arm through the opening in the tank.

Remove old seal

Place new seal into tank and lightly lubricate with clean mineral oil on the ID

Insert the fuel pump level sending arm into the tank first followed by fuel pump

Tighten the retaining ring to OEM specs with the aid of a band clamp or applicable OEM recommended tool.

Roll tank back under vehicle and raise it into place being careful to align it to chassis. Leave it down enough to be able to fine tune the positioning.

Insert tank straps into T-slots

Place straps over studs

Place nuts on but, do not tighten yet.

Fine tune tank position against chassis / frame. Once that is final, (check fuel fitting for proper alignment here) jack tank all the way up and tighten strap fasteners to spec.

Re-attach lines, fitting and connector. NOTE: Do not forget to lock the safety clip on the connector by simply pressing it in towards the rear of the vehicle.

END OF PROCESS

CM
 

Last edited by cmckenna; Nov 1, 2010 at 09:11 AM. Reason: typo
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