im leaking gas
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#2
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Check the charcoal canister first. It should be right around in that neighborhood as well. Might be sucking gas right out of the tank. If that isn't it, check with a local auto parts store, and see if they have the gasket separately. Should be able to get it..... if not, the dealer should be able to. Can't be more than 20 bucks.
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I recently replaced my full pump. When dropping the tank, be VERY careful to unplug the clip to the pump, mine was very brittle and broke. After several attempts at the parts store with replacements, I ended up having to replace the entire rear section with the $75 factory line. I went ahead and pulled the bed after that, sanded and repainted the rear chassis and rearend. It was amazing how much rust that was going on. The complete fuel line was very rusty and ended up breaking when I tried to disconnect the front clip. It's a pain. If you feel it is the seal to the pump, I also would suggest trying to reach under and tighten the pump.
#10
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The process of dropping the tank is actually very simple and quick. I've even done it with a full 35g tank without issue- many times in fact.
PROCESS:
Disconnect the NEG (-) on the BAT
-Depending on clearance- you may be able to sit up under the truck with your head and shoulders in between the tank and the body on the drivers side to gain access to the pump connections.
-Disconnect the smaller rubber hose from pump.
-Disconnect the electrical harness by sliding the orange / red safety clip to disengage I believe it slides towards the front of the vehicle. It does not come out all the way so, try to avoid pushing it out completely. A flat blade screw driver works in most cases.
-There's a square pad on the connector to which, you depress that to raise the other end over the tang.
-Wiggle the connector off the pump- should disengage completely at this point.
-FUEL LINE DISCONNECT:
There's two tangs that catch on the fuel line fitting- those two tabs must be pressed in to release the fuel line fitting. The line slides right off the pump once those are pressed in fully.
Next:
- FILLER HOSE: Loosen the 5/16 hose clamp and, remove it from the filler pipe.
NOTE: WRAP TAPE AROUND BOTH OPEN HOSES TO PREVENT DEBRIS FROM ENDING UP INSIDE THE TANK
- VENT HOSE: Same as above
-LOOSEN: TANK BRACKETS - 15MM
TANK REMOVAL PROCESS:
NOTE:
If the tank is full, use of a scissor lift / trans lift is beneficial but, in a pinch, I've done it myself without without one when full. It's much easier though with a cradle. ALSO, if attempting to use a floor jack to put the tank back in or, lower it, you will want to distribute the load by the use of a 2 by 6 to prevent the jack from collapsing the tank and causing damage to the pump housing.
With the tank supported, loosen and remove the bolts off the studs.
Using a pry-bar, pry straps off of studs.
Push the tank away from strap T-slots.
Remove tank straps
Lower tank and remove from under vehicle
Remove the retaining ring off the fuel pump
Lift pump straight up. NOTE: there's an arm for the fuel pump level sending unit which, will get caught in the tank. You will have to maneuver the arm through the opening in the tank.
Remove old seal
Place new seal into tank and lightly lubricate with clean mineral oil on the ID
Insert the fuel pump level sending arm into the tank first followed by fuel pump
Tighten the retaining ring to OEM specs with the aid of a band clamp or applicable OEM recommended tool.
Roll tank back under vehicle and raise it into place being careful to align it to chassis. Leave it down enough to be able to fine tune the positioning.
Insert tank straps into T-slots
Place straps over studs
Place nuts on but, do not tighten yet.
Fine tune tank position against chassis / frame. Once that is final, (check fuel fitting for proper alignment here) jack tank all the way up and tighten strap fasteners to spec.
Re-attach lines, fitting and connector. NOTE: Do not forget to lock the safety clip on the connector by simply pressing it in towards the rear of the vehicle.
END OF PROCESS
CM
PROCESS:
Disconnect the NEG (-) on the BAT
-Depending on clearance- you may be able to sit up under the truck with your head and shoulders in between the tank and the body on the drivers side to gain access to the pump connections.
-Disconnect the smaller rubber hose from pump.
-Disconnect the electrical harness by sliding the orange / red safety clip to disengage I believe it slides towards the front of the vehicle. It does not come out all the way so, try to avoid pushing it out completely. A flat blade screw driver works in most cases.
-There's a square pad on the connector to which, you depress that to raise the other end over the tang.
-Wiggle the connector off the pump- should disengage completely at this point.
-FUEL LINE DISCONNECT:
There's two tangs that catch on the fuel line fitting- those two tabs must be pressed in to release the fuel line fitting. The line slides right off the pump once those are pressed in fully.
Next:
- FILLER HOSE: Loosen the 5/16 hose clamp and, remove it from the filler pipe.
NOTE: WRAP TAPE AROUND BOTH OPEN HOSES TO PREVENT DEBRIS FROM ENDING UP INSIDE THE TANK
- VENT HOSE: Same as above
-LOOSEN: TANK BRACKETS - 15MM
TANK REMOVAL PROCESS:
NOTE:
If the tank is full, use of a scissor lift / trans lift is beneficial but, in a pinch, I've done it myself without without one when full. It's much easier though with a cradle. ALSO, if attempting to use a floor jack to put the tank back in or, lower it, you will want to distribute the load by the use of a 2 by 6 to prevent the jack from collapsing the tank and causing damage to the pump housing.
With the tank supported, loosen and remove the bolts off the studs.
Using a pry-bar, pry straps off of studs.
Push the tank away from strap T-slots.
Remove tank straps
Lower tank and remove from under vehicle
Remove the retaining ring off the fuel pump
Lift pump straight up. NOTE: there's an arm for the fuel pump level sending unit which, will get caught in the tank. You will have to maneuver the arm through the opening in the tank.
Remove old seal
Place new seal into tank and lightly lubricate with clean mineral oil on the ID
Insert the fuel pump level sending arm into the tank first followed by fuel pump
Tighten the retaining ring to OEM specs with the aid of a band clamp or applicable OEM recommended tool.
Roll tank back under vehicle and raise it into place being careful to align it to chassis. Leave it down enough to be able to fine tune the positioning.
Insert tank straps into T-slots
Place straps over studs
Place nuts on but, do not tighten yet.
Fine tune tank position against chassis / frame. Once that is final, (check fuel fitting for proper alignment here) jack tank all the way up and tighten strap fasteners to spec.
Re-attach lines, fitting and connector. NOTE: Do not forget to lock the safety clip on the connector by simply pressing it in towards the rear of the vehicle.
END OF PROCESS
CM
Last edited by cmckenna; 11-01-2010 at 09:11 AM. Reason: typo