Any help would be most appreciated. Son's 97 Ram was stolen last night and I just got the news. Apparently ignition, cylinder key, clockspring and shrouds are toasted. Estimate he was given also mentions something about ABS which puzzles me?

I have not seen the truck but would appreciate any thoughts on parts purchase and repair tips. I will see the truck first thing in the morning. I have all tools except tamper proof torx. I will buy them. A brief description of the mechanics of the Dodge ignition would be a huge help. Last one I was into was a Ford and it had this long down rod which the key cylinder actuated and the rod in turn actuated the ign. switch at the firewall. Is this system similiar or is the ign. swith right at the key switch?

Any help is appreciated. Poor guy (18) worked all summer for this truck.

 

Dam that sucks but he got the truck back vary lucky.

This is how you remove the cylinder and switch but if the cylinder was broken it may be a little more fun. Let me know

1. Disconnect the battery negative cable(s).

2. If equipped with a tilt column, remove the tilt lever (turn CCW).

3. Remove the upper and lower steering column shrouds.

4. Place the automatic transmissions in PARK .

5. Turn the key to the RUN position.

6. Press in on the retaining pin while pulling the key from the ignition switch.

7. Remove the key lock cylinder.

8. Remove the three ignition switch mounting screws which require a tamper-proof torx bit.

9. Gently pull the switch away from the steering column. Release the connector locks on the seven-terminal wiring connector.

10. Release the connector lock on the four-terminal halo lamp wiring connector and remove connector.



To install:

11. Rotate the flag on the rear of the ignition switch until it is in the RUN position. This is to allow the tang on the key cylinder to fit into the slots within the ignition switch.

12. With the key in the ignition key cylinder, rotate the key CW until the retaining pin can be depressed.

13. Install the key cylinder into the ignition switch by aligning the retaining pin into the retaining pin slot. Push the key cylinder into the switch until the retaining pin engages. After the pin engages, rotate the key to OFF or LOCK .

14. Check for proper retention of the key cylinder by attempting to pull the cylinder from the switch.

15. On automatic transmission models, before attaching the ignition switch to the steering column, ensure that the shifter is in PARK . The park lock dowel pin on the rear of the ignition switch must also be properly indexed into the park lock linkage before installing the switch.

16. The flag at the rear of the ignition switch must be properly indexed into the steering column before installing the switch. This flag is used to operate the steering wheel lock lever in the steering column. This lever allows the steering wheel position to be locked when the key switch is in the LOCK position.

17. Place the ignition switch in the LOCK position. The switch is in the LOCK position when the column lock flag is parallel to the ignition switch terminals.

18. On automatic transmission models, apply a light coating of grease to the park lock dowel pin and park lock slider linkage. Before installing the switch, push the park lock slider linkage forward until it bottoms. Do a final positioning by pulling it rearward about 1 / 4 in.

19. Apply a light coating of grease to both column lock flag and shaft at end of flag.

20. Place the ignition switch into openings on steering column.

21. On automatic transmission models, be sure the park lock dowel pin on the rear of the ignition switch enters the slot in the park lock slider linkage.

22. Be sure the flag on the rear of the switch is positioned above the steering wheel lock lever.

23. Align the dowel pins on the rear of the switch into the holes on the side of the steering colum.

24. Install the mounting screws and tighten to 17 inch lbs. (2 Nm).

25. After installing the switch, rotate the key from LOCK to ON . Verify that the park lock slider moves in the slider slot, allowing the gearshift lever to be moved out of PARK on automatic transmission models. If the slider does not move, and the gearshift lever is locked in PARK , the ignition switch park lock dowel pin, on the rear of the ignition switch, is not properly installed in the slot of the park lock slider linkage. Remove the ignition switch and reinstall.

26. Connect the electrical connectors to the halo lamp. Make sure that the switch locking tabs are fully seated in the wiring connectors.

27. Install the steering column covers.

28. The remainder of the procedure is the reverse of removal.

Pictures help

Press in on the retaining pin while pulling the key cylinder from the ignition switch
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/Kashegurl/6.gif

Three tamper-proof Torx® screws secure the ignition switch
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...hegurl/5-1.gif

Flag in RUN position for key cylinder installation
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...hegurl/4-1.gif

Key cylinder rear view
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...hegurl/3-1.gif

Installing the key cylinder into the switch
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...hegurl/2-5.gif

Park lock linkage-automatic transmission models
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...egurl/1-24.gif

Steering wheel lock cover
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/Kashegurl/7.gif



Good luck.

 

Thanks workin4ever. Couldn't ask for a better explanation to re and re ignition than that. As I said I will not get to the truck until tomorrow, however it is my understanding that the cylinder is broken. Does that change things up substantially?

When I was at work he had it towed to a shop and they described having to re and re the whole steering column, they also said something about ABS although I'm not sure how the brakes are involved in the steering column???

Money is tight so I will try to find what he needs at the wrecker and do the job myself.

Am I correct in thinking there is no linkage to speak of between the key switch and the ignition switch? Like I said, the last ignition I worked on had a long "rod" interconnecting the two.

 

My friend it all depends on what the a@@ hold did to get it started. If the cylinder is broken it may be easier.

I can not see were the ABS would be involved. But this could be something that happened when they were driving the truck. Hard to say.

If you can tack some pictures of the damage. and let me know how bad it is.

The wrecking yard is your best bet for parts at a fair price.

 

Isnt it a theft recovery and shouldnt insurance pay for the repairs?


The only thing in the steering column that is related to the ABS is the ABS clockspring.

 

its been a couple of years, but i bought a cheap set of security torx at autozone for about $10.

good luck.

 

Most grateful to W4Ever, DHV and PD. Here in British Columbia theft coverage is an option and expensive. Son opted out. I have a 98 Ram Quad cab and have a "Club" on it at all times. He will too now.

That's it PD......ABS clockspring!

I have my camera in hand and am headed to the shop where it was towed to see if I can get it running and to my home to repair. I will post pictures and details of damage asap. Might be a busy day as shops and parts are spread all over the place.

I know I'm capable of making the repair, just might take me 3X longer than the typical auto tech. Last question for now and this is a biggy.....

Is there an easy way to "bypass" the ignition and get it running get it home? Shop quoted him $1400 just for parts and I absolutely must get it out of there.

Promise to post pics, thanks.

 

some guy stole it already. you should be able to start it the same way he did. you might be able to do it with a flat screw driver.

 

Thanks. You can probably sense a little anxiety in my posts. Until I view the damage I just don't kbnow what to expect or what I'm dealing with. Will keep you all advised.

 

You might be better off just getting the whole column from a junkyard, and having the lock cylinder re-keyed. Probably be cheaper than buying the parts separately.... easier too.