Brake/U-joint/Ball joint work
#1
Brake/U-joint/Ball joint work
Well after much procrastination I have time to do all the front end replacements on The Locomotive that were needed.
Started with the removal on front rotors and calipers. RS come off no problems. LS rotor however is a different story, siezed on so bad that heat, penn. oil, heat/water shock nothing would break it loose. This side was apart by a local garage in town to replace ball joints and u-joint 3 yrs ago.
We all have had the occasion were we didn't have the time to do it ourselves.
Upon disassembly now, no sign of anti-sieze used, insert swearing here, that was $1400 job! just for that side. I ended up now having to cut the rotor in half with a air cut off grinder. See pics in my alblum.
Any suggestions as to good ball and u joint brands? Carlis are not in the budget
Started with the removal on front rotors and calipers. RS come off no problems. LS rotor however is a different story, siezed on so bad that heat, penn. oil, heat/water shock nothing would break it loose. This side was apart by a local garage in town to replace ball joints and u-joint 3 yrs ago.
We all have had the occasion were we didn't have the time to do it ourselves.
Upon disassembly now, no sign of anti-sieze used, insert swearing here, that was $1400 job! just for that side. I ended up now having to cut the rotor in half with a air cut off grinder. See pics in my alblum.
Any suggestions as to good ball and u joint brands? Carlis are not in the budget
#2
#3
You can order XRF ball joints from www.thetireclub.com If you enter 10.00_off! in the coupon box, then thats what you get. $10 off your total and free shipping. Don't worry. This isn't a shameless plug, I actually just installed some on my rig and I love 'em.
#4
You can order XRF ball joints from www.thetireclub.com If you enter 10.00_off! in the coupon box, then thats what you get. $10 off your total and free shipping. Don't worry. This isn't a shameless plug, I actually just installed some on my rig and I love 'em.
#5
#6
Second, while I always lube rust-prone areas (with moly grease; I hate anti-seize), not every one does, including the manufacturers. I understand your frustration, but it's not like they really did anything wrong. Just didn't do that extra step.
Napa premium BJ's and Super strength U-joints. Don't skimp on this stuff
#7
Thanks 66deuce, I will go with Napa stuff since there is a store in town close by. Other suppliers sounded good to but just too far away. Most places here just carry China junk now and won't order anything.
I remembered now that the shop mangled the 4 hub bolts, 2 new ball joints and promised to lube everything so I could get it apart at a latter date, IE now!. They tried and broke 2 new ball joints that were the wrong ones. U-joint were shipped to them wrong twice?
I know I got the hose and paid for their education but I never went back to them for anything more than a tire change. Since then I put in a hoist in my shop and have saved cash/aggravation and don't have to crawl around outside on the ground. Working more on it today, loosen LS hub.
sprntpshr
I remembered now that the shop mangled the 4 hub bolts, 2 new ball joints and promised to lube everything so I could get it apart at a latter date, IE now!. They tried and broke 2 new ball joints that were the wrong ones. U-joint were shipped to them wrong twice?
I know I got the hose and paid for their education but I never went back to them for anything more than a tire change. Since then I put in a hoist in my shop and have saved cash/aggravation and don't have to crawl around outside on the ground. Working more on it today, loosen LS hub.
sprntpshr
Last edited by sprntpshr; 11-12-2010 at 01:17 PM. Reason: Seen deuce and a half in pic, not Chevyll
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#8
I remembered now that the shop mangled the 4 hub bolts, 2 new ball joints and promised to lube everything so I could get it apart at a latter date, IE now!. They tried and broke 2 new ball joints that were the wrong ones. U-joint were shipped to them wrong twice?
I know I got the hose and paid for their education but I never went back to them for anything more than a tire change. Since then I put in a hoist in my shop and have saved cash/aggravation and don't have to crawl around outside on the ground. Working more on it today, loosen LS hub.
sprntpshr
I know I got the hose and paid for their education but I never went back to them for anything more than a tire change. Since then I put in a hoist in my shop and have saved cash/aggravation and don't have to crawl around outside on the ground. Working more on it today, loosen LS hub.
sprntpshr
I have no problem calling a customer back and telling them this or that broke during removal because it was rusted or previously damaged or whatever, and that they need to pay for it. But if I break the part out of carelessness, hastiness or lack of understanding on it's removal, I own it.
#9
Thanks 66Duece, Good to to know that there is still honest people in the trade. At the time 3yrs ago, I needed the truck done ASAP and didn't have the time to do it. Now its a whole new deal!
Got the truck (3500 CTD) all back together. Had to split the LS brake rotor in 2 to get it off the hub. LS hub was seized in pretty good. Had to warm up the back side of the knuckle with a Oxy/prop torch, just enough to expand it a bit.
Noticed that at the top of the knuckle where the ABS tab is punched from the backing plate there is a nice little 1/8" by 2" long slot that lets all the crap and water down into the bearing and hub mating surface area. On the 1500's at least its one piece w/o the gap.
Nice engineering!
Used a hub bolt push out tool from Xnap ox, neighbor is a dealer for them and got it at a good price. Just worked it back and forth on all 4 bolts until the hub unit come out. Changed out u joints, hub units and rotors. Ball joints were good but they will get changed in the spring along with a couple of sealed tie rod ends. Just needed the truck back on the road.
Greased everything good, now the front end is smooth and quiet! Before there was a whole lot of squeaking and vibration happening.
I have a few pictures to post sooner or later.
sprntpshr
Got the truck (3500 CTD) all back together. Had to split the LS brake rotor in 2 to get it off the hub. LS hub was seized in pretty good. Had to warm up the back side of the knuckle with a Oxy/prop torch, just enough to expand it a bit.
Noticed that at the top of the knuckle where the ABS tab is punched from the backing plate there is a nice little 1/8" by 2" long slot that lets all the crap and water down into the bearing and hub mating surface area. On the 1500's at least its one piece w/o the gap.
Nice engineering!
Used a hub bolt push out tool from Xnap ox, neighbor is a dealer for them and got it at a good price. Just worked it back and forth on all 4 bolts until the hub unit come out. Changed out u joints, hub units and rotors. Ball joints were good but they will get changed in the spring along with a couple of sealed tie rod ends. Just needed the truck back on the road.
Greased everything good, now the front end is smooth and quiet! Before there was a whole lot of squeaking and vibration happening.
I have a few pictures to post sooner or later.
sprntpshr
Last edited by sprntpshr; 12-02-2010 at 03:49 PM. Reason: spellin'