I have a 99 5.7L 4x4. I am contemplation replacing the front axle seals myself as the pasenger side seal is cracked and leaking slowly. The driver side is definately cracked as well, but no leak yet.

I found this thread here but this seems to be for inner seals as well. I am just looking for some clarificaiton on how difficult it should be to replace these 2 outer seals. I only want to replace the outer seal that you can see at the end of the axel (you can see them without taking anything but the wheel off). Is this something I can do or will I need all the tools and parts discussed in the other thread?

I have a friend that works at tires plus and he said from what he could tell looking at the computer for the job that it wouldn't take us long at all. I am just confused based on the info in the previous thread. I dont know if there are other seals that are being discussed other than the $8 outer seal, which is all I believe needs to be replaced (if it ain't broke, dont fix it). I hope its as easy as taking the wheel and hub assembly off, and pop a new seal on. Also, does anyone know if you even have to take the axel out to replace this particular seal?

I appreciate anyone's comments. Thanks in advance.

 

The axle seal design on these trucks wasn't the brightest. The seal are installed from inside the axle housing..... for the passenger side, you can get to it thru the CAD opening, for the drivers side, you have to pull the carrier out to replace the seal. Special tools are also required to get them to go in properly..... members have had success with making their own tools..... usually a long piece of threaded rod, some nuts and large washers.

Grab the factory service manual from the FAQ section here. Have a look at the procedure as outlined there. Its for an 01 model year, but, the axles are the same.

 

There are just two seals, and neither are really easy to get to, one is just slightly easier than the other. To do them both you really need to take most of the axle apart. Good time to change u-joints too. There are a couple good write-ups around with pictures. Just make sure you give yourself enough time since a 99 ram will probably fight you during dis-assembly.

 

Thanks fellas. I will check out the manual and see what it says.

I wonder if that guy every got it done for $200 bucks in the other thread?

 

the "outer seal" that you can see at the end of the axle tube is not really a seal. its just a slinger or dust boot to keep the stick and rocks out.

the real seal is buried deep down at the inner end of the axle tube, and frankly - its a pita to change.

when you get in there, you'll likely find that you need axle u-joints, cad bushings, or spline cleanup, brakes..., and sometimes the wheel bearing separates. its just a real pita. allow one, maybe two days, and be prepared to fight a war with the big axle nut.

 

i just replaces my axle seals and u joints and wheel bearings in my truck tell you what pain in the *** you will have to remove the wheel bearing pack and the axle shafts and dust shield and remove the differential cover and the pinion setup in there its quite a process if you want me to tell you everything you need to do pm me

 

i just posted a DIY on the Front End, and it tells how to replace axle seals......you can do it in about 4-5 hours for both seals.....check out my thread "Front End DIY" in the FAQ section....

Any help you need just ask....ive ripped my front end apart 4-5 times, so its a breeze to me now....just ask and we'll walk you through....you can do it.

 

i have a 99 dodge ram and this past summer i did 13 passenger side axle seals. I brought it the dealership for the first one they said i had bad ball joints (which i had just replaced) and thats what made the seal leak. they replaced ball joints and seal cost me like 500. it still leaked for the next 11 axle seals i had them replace because it kept leaking immediatly after they installed it. Finally i was fed up and did it myself. took me a little over an hour and a half. made my own seal press with 5/8 threaded rod a 1 3/4 in socket and some nuts and bolts total cost 30$ including seal. its been 4 months and hasnt leaked a drop.

 

You know they tend to leak at first to get rid of all the overfill of fluid.....your diff shouldnt be filled to the plug, it should actually be filled to 3/4...anything more, it will leak out the axle seals making them look like they are leaking when in reality its just extra fluid the diff doesnt need...now if it leaks and gets below half then maybe the seals are leaking..but my drivers side started leaking after i did it for about 2 days, and then nothing, and hasnt leaked since.....so you may have replaced 13 seals for nothing....

 

You don't need to take the axle nuts off to do the seals or the U-joints, only if you're changing the hub itself.