ill prolly just run 94, just to be safe. no need to risk it knocking to save 6 bucks.

once the build gets rolling, ill post pics, as well as first start

im also going to get a price from the shop that its at now, for a few pulls on the engine dyno im sure its expensive though.
5 chassis pulls are only $75 so ill be doing that for sure.

 

If one could create a perfect quench engine there would be perfect combustion. My R/T heads were shaved a bit to cure some minor imperfections. They are a 60cc head. Add the Icon forged 1C745 piston you will get 10.5 compression.
Now according to my son these were chosen to (in his opinion) to match up to the quench area in the R/T head. I beleive we have an excellant quench engine. There were some who said we were over compressed with the stock cam. When cold the engine spins freely and when it warms up it does sound like a lousy battery or spinning a 13.5 engine. But again I do not have any ping! Zero. I run 94 octane and just for fun I threw some Lucas race octane boost in to see if I could get some more jump and it made no difference.
Some causes of ping are running lean, lousy timing, wrong octane fuel. I have none of these just gobs of torque.

 

yea i have a comp custom gound HR (3/4 race hahaha, dont you just love those guys? what kinda cam you runnin? full race. o yea, what are the specs? its a full race, whatdo ya mean? ) you can track back a few pages and check out the specs. my r/ts are 60cc as well but the kb hypereutectic dish pistons put me at 9.8

guess it might be a little more unique now with 410 cubes those 2 cubes probably added about 50hp hahahaha jk

 

seems like i need to re-evaluate CR... im now getting 10.3:1 and dont remeber why i was getting 9.8:1. heres the values im entering:
compressed gasket thickness .040
piston travels .010 above deck
60 cc combustion chamber
-23.5 dish

if it is 10.3, should i step up to .050 or .060 gasket to lower compression? will i run into valve to piston clearance issues since i dont know what the original gasket thinkness was?

 

Try this calculator, and see what number it comes up with.

 

10.3 is getting near to the point where you can't use pump gas anymore.

The stock replacement felpro gasket compressed to .055 thickness. P2V clearance will be most critical at the over lap period at the end of the exhaust stroke and beginning of the intake stroke. That's where you'll need to check. Typically the intake valve opens just a bit before the exhaust valve is finished, which is also while the piston is finishing it's upward travel. If you are running. 010 up past the hole and the gasket's thickness isn't even making the space to the deck .045 (or .030 on your current gasket,) you're going to be really tight on P2V if it were flat topped pistons. Can't know how tight until you test it, as the cam specs and piston reliefs are players there.

 

still coming to 10.3 with .040 gasket... one guy in this thread says he runs 10.5 no problems

so gasket choice is critical here? i know i can get it back to 9.8 with a .060 or 10 flat with .055 gasket. i need to figure out what the original gasket on the build was but it has no identification, just Fel-Pro.

ill ask the shop what gasket to get, or maybe they even know what the original gasket was

 

If you still have the gasket, just put a mic on it, and see what thickness it is now......

 

good idea will it be compressed thickness though?

so basically i can get a thicker gasket with out worrying about p2v, but if for some reason i go thinner, i need to check that out?

 

I would check it either way. Better safe than grenaded engine.