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Upgraded from my Dakota for a 2nd gen Ram

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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 01:34 AM
  #31  
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http://ezinearticles.com/?The-Hidden-Power-Of-The-Spark-Plugs-Heat-Range---Learn-How-Much-Benefits-You-May-Obtain-From-Them!&id=988109

That is one explanation of spark plug heat range.

You want the heat range to be cold enough to prevent pre-ignition (lighting the air/gas before the piston has compressed the gas the right amount) but hot enough to prevent fouling (lighting the air/gas too late). Ignition timing tells the plugs when to fire but having a plug in there that has a heat range that is too hot will allow the plug to fire milliseconds too early and give you spark knock.
 

Last edited by Sheriff420; Dec 7, 2010 at 01:36 AM.
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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 10:53 AM
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Awesome, Thank you! Im doing my intake and everything today, I brought my shop in to the shop yesterday after work, and wow does she ever need alot of work. Theres only 148000km on it. But the guy before me did not maintain it at all, Everything it need intake and plenum gasket, valve cover gaskets, pcv valve, My radiators leaking at the bottom corners, so new rad, upper and lower balljoints, swaybar links, powersteering seal, one calipers leaking brake fluid liek crazy and new brakes front, i didnt even want to check the rear i will eventually, my tcase is leaking the gasket that joins them together, not a big deal right now but still sucks. and my tcase out put shaft seal, I couldnt believe the list. So today im doing everything on the motor and my brakes, also gonna try and weld a straight pipe exhaust if I have time or eventually get a delta force 40 I really have my heart set on one of those. My boss told me that he has a 2 inch leveling kit that later on if you want to add 6 more inches of lift you can just add it to this leveling kit, which is awesome so he said he'll give me it for free, and a free spray in box liner, hes trying to promote this new bedliner company called k2 he has already done 3 trucks, and he wants to do mine as a donor. He is actually very good at it so Im not worried at all. Actually very excited, cant wait till my truck is how I want it, specially the lift and the huge tires and bumper and screaming exhaust...Mmmmmmm
 
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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 10:58 AM
  #33  
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Check your transfer case output shaft, and see if the snap ring that holds things in place is broken as well. The failed seal kinda points in that direction.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 01:59 PM
  #34  
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Ok so I did my intake and plenum, seems to be running alot better, And yes the 2 front bolts and 1 rear bolt broke on the intake, all I did was heat the bolt up with a torch and use wax and my vicegrips they came out awesome. I could really see any flaws with the intake gasket when I peeled it off, but the plenum gasket there was oil underneath it so I think that may have been some of my problem. I did my thermostat the week before and I had heat after doing it and even before I touched my intake, my heat started to not be so hot, it was liek it was blowing luke warm air, or as if I had my window rolled down a little bit while the heat was on full force. And my tempurature guage doesnt go over a quarter its a little bit under, and I know when my thermostat went before the coolant guage was right down to zero and wouldnt move at all. It was in a million pieces, when I replaced it, so now I dont really have heat again. I was just wondering how often you get a faulty thermostat? Im thinking that may be my problem again, because I know my waterpump is good, and im pretty sure my blend door is working properly, I might do a reverse flush on my heater core, that seemed to work really well in my old truck when it had no heat. One other thing my rad is leaking a little bit in the corners on the bottom, I will change it soon, but I dont think that would have any affect on me having heat, because coolant is supposed to be circulating and if anything it will be pushing the coolant out of the bottom of the rad and not sucking air in, until I shut off my truck, just wondering if you guys have any advice, I think I might do all 3, reverse flush, change the rad, and thermostat, but if anyone has come across anything I might be missing Id greatly appreciate the advice! This is just my 3rd vehicle with no heat, its liek when its really cold I get heat for maybe a week out of the winter then Im screwed the rest of it. Lol sucks!!
 
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 02:29 PM
  #35  
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Test your new thermostat before you put it in the truck.
I've heard of guys getting something like 3 in a row that were bad.
To test it, heat some water up on a stove and stick the thermostat and a meat thermometer in it. When it hits the temp that your thermostat is rated for then look at the thermostat to see if it opens all the way. Pull the thermostat out of the water after you verify that it opens as it should and make sure it closes all the way as it cools off.

Flushing the heater core might get it. Hopefully your heater core isn't bad, those are tons of fun to change.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 03:19 PM
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Dammit, lol I dont really wanna change my heater core I mean its not leaking or anything I think its just clogged if anything but I will deffinetly heat my thermostat before putting it in, my boss told me that you can do that by boiling water, deffinetly not gonna make that mistake again, I am hoping that it is something simple. But when my thermostat went last time my coolant guage was zero and this time its under a quarter, could that still be my thermostat?
 
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 03:24 PM
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If it is just partially opening or stuck partially open then yes. That's why I said to make sure it opens all the way.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 03:25 PM
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When I did my plenum, my heater did the same thing. Backflushed it, and back to scorching hot heat. When I did the water pump/timing set, same thing. **** warm heat..... too cold to try the backflush trick again..

I think what happens is an air bubble gets trapped in there, so, while you may have good flow, the heater core isn't 'full', so, not very efficient. I have considered disconnection both hoses, holding them up above the level of the tubes, and just pouring water in one or both of the hoses, see how much it takes, and if it solves the issue.... but, it is cold and windy...... the 'not' heat really sucks though, so, I might have to screw up my resolve, brave the winter weather, and JUST DO IT.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
When I did my plenum, my heater did the same thing. Backflushed it, and back to scorching hot heat. When I did the water pump/timing set, same thing. **** warm heat..... too cold to try the backflush trick again..

I think what happens is an air bubble gets trapped in there, so, while you may have good flow, the heater core isn't 'full', so, not very efficient. I have considered disconnection both hoses, holding them up above the level of the tubes, and just pouring water in one or both of the hoses, see how much it takes, and if it solves the issue.... but, it is cold and windy...... the 'not' heat really sucks though, so, I might have to screw up my resolve, brave the winter weather, and JUST DO IT.
Just get two burning barrels, put one even with the bumper and one even with the mirror on the passenger side then stand in between them and you'll have a HeyYou in the oven while you play with the heater hoses.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 06:26 PM
  #40  
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Ok awesome, gonna get one tomorrow and test it, hoping thats my problem.
 
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