My owners manual calls for 10W30. I am not a fan of running a lighter weight oil than what the manufacturer calls for.

 

SAE VISCOSITY
An S A E viscosity grade is used to specify the viscosity
of engine oil. S A E 30 specifies a single viscosity
engine oil. Engine oils also have multiple
viscosities. These are specified with a dual S A E viscosity
grade which indicates the cold-to-hot temperature
viscosity range. Select an engine oil that is best
suited to your particular temperature range and variation
(Fig. 1).
10W-30 >
< 5W-30
1 I 1
F -20 0 10 20 32 60 80 100
C -29 -18 -12 -7 0 16 27 38
ANTICIPATED TEMPERATURE RANGE
BEFORE NEXT OIL CHANGE J9000-39

From factory service manual, 5w30 below 32 degrees, 10w30 above 0 degrees

 

Interesting. I don't think I would wanna run anything that light in my high mileage motor though.

 

So I just finished my oil change, I put 5 quarts of oil in(Which is what the manual said) and I started it up for about a minute or so, then turned it off and checked the dipstick, but the oil level was just barely in the "safe" zone on the dipstick. Is that how its supposed to be? Or am I missing something?

Also I should mention that I put 4 quarts in them started it up for a few seconds before adding the 5th quart, because I didn't pre-fill the filter, but I did put oil on the o-ring. After some research, I now know that I should pre-fill the filter

(This is also my first oil change) probably should have mentioned that

 

Depends on a lot of things. How big of an oil filter, maybe the PO installed a larger pan

 

Alright, I'll have to ask my grandpa of he ever did anything with the oil pan. And the oil filter I used is a K&N HP 2004(if I remember correctly)

I was also wondering if there's any difference between the 10W-30 High Mileage, and regular 10W-40, and which would be better?

Again, thank you everyone for all the help, I'm new to vehicle maintenance and am trying to learn.

 

It takes awhile for all the oil to drain back into the oil pan. Especially if the engine is cold. 10w30 and 10w40 are very similar, they flow basically the same when cold, the 10w part. The 40 has a higher film strength when hot. If you live where it's hot the 10w40 would offer a little more protection. The 10w30 would be fine though.

 

15w40 diesel oil goes in all of my engines, diesel and gas.

 

New York is hot in the summer and cold in the winter.

I have used Wal-Mart Super Tech 10W-30 conventional engine oil and Super Tech engine oil filters in all my vehicles since day one. Pretty much as cheap as it gets.

Best advice I ever got was to check engine oil and coolant levels before every cold start. It takes a minute of your time and keeps the hood latch from rusting up. Maintain engine oil level half way up safe zone. Coolant (50/50) is always full at the cold level.

I check ATF (Super Tech Dexron III / Mercon) once a week at the gas station because the vehicle is level and hot. Maintain ATF half way up safe zone running / hot.

Change engine oil and filter every 3000 to 3500 miles. ATF and Transmission filter change as per manufacturer instructions (usually over ). Coolant change when you blow a hose, hose clamp, hit a deer and trash your radiator or install a new water pump.

Results:

1994 Hyundai Excel 1.5L 4 - 300,000 miles
1996 Dodge Ram 2500 RWD 5.9L V8 - 120,000 miles (would be higher if I could afford the gas)
2000 Mercury Grand Marquis 4.6L V8 - 165,000 miles

They all run great with good power and use little oil.

Don't believe the oil hype.

P.S. Yes. I use Dexron III / Mercon in my Dodge 46RE. Works fine. Use ATF+4 if it gives you peace of mind.

 

5w30 and 10w30 are operationally the same.... the only difference is their cold flow characteristics.


I run a 5w40 until winter hits and then i drop as far as a 0w oil. Operationally at temp a 0w40 5w40 and 10w40 are "the same". Cold flow is drastically different and if you look at and understand what centistokes are in terms of viscosity measure, you wouldn't be afraid of running even a 15w60 in the summer and you'd never again even consider any of those bull**** Lucas Oil treatments everybody always talks about using.

An example of thicker oil in an engine is the 5.0 coyote mustang. They called for 5w20 factory EXCEPT for the track packages which called for 5w50. Internally there was no difference and they use the same cam phasers in their cam timing systems. The cSt measure if those 2 weights at 100C is about 8.5cSt foot the 20 and about 15cSt for the 50. Lucas Stabilizer is 180cSt if i remember the last time i looked