Winter Oil
#1
Winter Oil
In my '96 5.9 the owners manual says to use 10w30 oil. I frequently get in the truck and go on a dime because of being on a fire department. I know that I should let the warm up a while, but that just isn't possible. I have a block heater, but I know it doesn't keep the oil from getting thick.
Would running 5w30 oil be a better for the engine? Once it starts warming back up, I would switch back to 10w30.
Would running 5w30 oil be a better for the engine? Once it starts warming back up, I would switch back to 10w30.
#3
Use the recommended grade oil for you climate. I have ALWAYS driven my vehicles away just as soon as oil pressure comes up. I figger they warm up faster being driven, than sitting there idling. (not to mention, idling in my driveway, I am getting 0 miles per gallon....... I can't afford to let my V-8 sit and idle.) I have over 150,000 miles on ALL of my vehicles. Some over 200,000.
#4
#5
Well you ask the million dollar question... our second gen's are getting old so the internals develop a little slop. Your question begs an answer to the question: "do you want to be near original manufactures specs for oil weight, before or after shear?" Shear is the break-down of the long molicule chains used to make multi weight oils. What happens is the moliclues heat up and streighten out versus being curled up in a ball when cold. The long moliclues get cropped off when they pass through the pistons and other areas of stress. After driving 50 miles with your 10W-30, your high end is more like a 25 weight because of shear. At 2,000 miles it may be a 20 weight oil.
As a former CAM2 Oil sales rep, I will pass along what my tribologist told me... use a 40 weight in an engine that requires a 30 weight; when it shears, it will be close to a 30 weight. One hundred miles down the road, no oil will meet spec any longer.
I run a 5W-40 in the winter and a 15W-50 in the summer towing months. Obviously I am running oil speced for diesel. Diesle oil meets gasoline specs with the benefits of a higher TBN to nuetralize gas blow by and acids that develop. Go to wally world, Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 Full Syn is about $20 and Mobil One Turbo Deisel is about $23.
Mobil's 15W-50 is about $23 at wally world. Hope this helps.
As a former CAM2 Oil sales rep, I will pass along what my tribologist told me... use a 40 weight in an engine that requires a 30 weight; when it shears, it will be close to a 30 weight. One hundred miles down the road, no oil will meet spec any longer.
I run a 5W-40 in the winter and a 15W-50 in the summer towing months. Obviously I am running oil speced for diesel. Diesle oil meets gasoline specs with the benefits of a higher TBN to nuetralize gas blow by and acids that develop. Go to wally world, Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 Full Syn is about $20 and Mobil One Turbo Deisel is about $23.
Mobil's 15W-50 is about $23 at wally world. Hope this helps.
Last edited by 2 Marks; 12-07-2010 at 09:29 PM.
#6
Well you ask the million dollar question... our second gen's are getting old so the internals develop a little slop. Your question begs an answer to the question: "do you want to be near original manufactures specs for oil weight, before or after shear?" Shear is the break-down of the long molicule chains used to make multi weight oils. What happens is the moliclues heat up and streighten out versus being curled up in a ball when cold. The long moliclues get cropped off when they pass through the pistons and other areas of stress. After driving 50 miles with your 10W-30, your high end is more like a 25 weight because of shear. At 2,000 miles it may be a 20 weight oil.
As a former CAM2 Oil sales rep, I will pass along what my tribologist told me... use a 40 weight in an engine that requires a 30 weight; when it shears, it will be close to a 30 weight. One hundred miles down the road, no oil will meet spec any longer.
I run a 5W-40 in the winter and a 15W-50 in the summer towing months. Obviously I am running oil speced for diesel. Diesle oil meets gasoline specs with the benefits of a higher TBN to nuetralize gas blow by and acids that develop. Go to wally world, Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 Full Syn is about $20 and Mobil One Turbo Deisel is about $23.
Mobil's 15W-50 is about $23 at wally world. Hope this helps.
As a former CAM2 Oil sales rep, I will pass along what my tribologist told me... use a 40 weight in an engine that requires a 30 weight; when it shears, it will be close to a 30 weight. One hundred miles down the road, no oil will meet spec any longer.
I run a 5W-40 in the winter and a 15W-50 in the summer towing months. Obviously I am running oil speced for diesel. Diesle oil meets gasoline specs with the benefits of a higher TBN to nuetralize gas blow by and acids that develop. Go to wally world, Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 Full Syn is about $20 and Mobil One Turbo Deisel is about $23.
Mobil's 15W-50 is about $23 at wally world. Hope this helps.
#7
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#9
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You'll have NO PROBLEMS running 5w30 in colder climates (or really in warmer ones for that matter) in an engine that specs 10w30 .
The viscosity is the same at running temperature and a little thinner before the engine warms up in winter. As a result, the oil will flow a bit faster and be easier on the oil pump at startup on cold days...
The viscosity is the same at running temperature and a little thinner before the engine warms up in winter. As a result, the oil will flow a bit faster and be easier on the oil pump at startup on cold days...
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