Cooling system leaks on 1997 Ram 2500
#21
#22
#23
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LOL, I have nothing against blondes... especially on guys.
Thanks for helping me understand roommate truck's set up. It may be standard for the ram, but was a mystery to me. Checked rockauto's prices, which were better. Even so, radiator started at $100 (plus shipping), hoses another $45... add misc stuff, probably looking at between $175-200 to replace. Roommate will have to save for that, so hopefully the stop leak stuff holds for the time being!
Thanks for helping me understand roommate truck's set up. It may be standard for the ram, but was a mystery to me. Checked rockauto's prices, which were better. Even so, radiator started at $100 (plus shipping), hoses another $45... add misc stuff, probably looking at between $175-200 to replace. Roommate will have to save for that, so hopefully the stop leak stuff holds for the time being!
#25
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Not well. ![Icon Frown](https://dodgeforum.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_frown.gif)
The front seam leak that I saw after flushing appears to be sealed, but now it is leaking worse from another spot, still on the driver's side radiator.
Checked local store for new radiator... $147+ tax. Found a local classified ad where someone is parting out a '95 Ram 1500, 5.9L. Not sure if this would work for his set-up... or if it is even worth trying to replace with a used radiator.
![Icon Frown](https://dodgeforum.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_frown.gif)
The front seam leak that I saw after flushing appears to be sealed, but now it is leaking worse from another spot, still on the driver's side radiator.
Checked local store for new radiator... $147+ tax. Found a local classified ad where someone is parting out a '95 Ram 1500, 5.9L. Not sure if this would work for his set-up... or if it is even worth trying to replace with a used radiator.
#26
#27
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Yeah, I was afraid getting a used one would not be worth it. Thanks for the ebay link. Brainstorming about what to do... he really cannot afford to get it done by a shop. He is not sure how to even pay for the part itself at this time (xmas and all).
It is one thing for me to try to stumble my way through a repair project on my burb... but I'm a little leery about doing anything more with roommate's dodge. Already feel guilty about exacerbating the problems with his troubled cooling system.
UPDATE: I guess it is still the seam, just worse now. Went outside, topped off loss coolant (over 1/3 gallon), sprayed radiator, etc. with garden hose. Let it idle a few, rev'd it up while friend watched. No sign of leaks.
Then, drove it around the block until fully warm. Did this with no heat. No smell in cab. Then, turned heat to max... the nasty coolant smell that blasted me was overwhelming. Shut heat right back off. Got back home, opened hood while engine still running. There was sprayed coolant everywhere on the front. Appears to be spraying from the same seam down driver's front side.
Roommate is definitely unhappy. I tried to make him drive my burb to work (nothing worse than an emergency break down on xmas eve after work), but he refused. I put 1.5 gallons 50/50 blended in his truck, just in case.
It is one thing for me to try to stumble my way through a repair project on my burb... but I'm a little leery about doing anything more with roommate's dodge. Already feel guilty about exacerbating the problems with his troubled cooling system.
UPDATE: I guess it is still the seam, just worse now. Went outside, topped off loss coolant (over 1/3 gallon), sprayed radiator, etc. with garden hose. Let it idle a few, rev'd it up while friend watched. No sign of leaks.
Then, drove it around the block until fully warm. Did this with no heat. No smell in cab. Then, turned heat to max... the nasty coolant smell that blasted me was overwhelming. Shut heat right back off. Got back home, opened hood while engine still running. There was sprayed coolant everywhere on the front. Appears to be spraying from the same seam down driver's front side.
Roommate is definitely unhappy. I tried to make him drive my burb to work (nothing worse than an emergency break down on xmas eve after work), but he refused. I put 1.5 gallons 50/50 blended in his truck, just in case.
Last edited by horsewoman; 12-24-2010 at 05:39 PM.
#28
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Replacing the radiator in these trucks really isn't all that hard. There's literally 4 bolts and a transmission hose keeping it in place. The bolts will disconnect the fan shroud and out pops the radiator. I did this in about 4 hours and that was only because I had to go get the disconnect tool. Heater core on the other hand is a different story. The guy that was gonna do mine said he could have it done in 5 hours at the tune of 270 bucks which isn't bad at all but my dash just has cracks in it and is not in pieces like some dodges are and I am afraid when he moves the dash it will break.
Edit: I'm probably wrong about how many bolts hold that thing in but it's been a few years since I replaced it. It's still pretty straightforward.
Edit: I'm probably wrong about how many bolts hold that thing in but it's been a few years since I replaced it. It's still pretty straightforward.
Last edited by notanexit7; 12-24-2010 at 08:26 PM.
#29
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Hm... service manual makes it sound a little bit more of a process. It says:
1. Remove radiator and reservoir hoses.
2. Remove reservoir. (Why??)
3. Disconnect connector for windshield washer and remove that reservoir. (Why??)
4. Remove fan shroud bolts and move towards engine.
5. Remove plastic clips retaining side rubber shields and move shields off to side.
6. Remove radiator bolts & lift radiator straight up.
Why does it tell me to remove both reservoir tanks? When I look down passenger side radiator under cap, I see reservoir hose, bottom radiator hose, and another hose just above bottom rad hose. What hose is this? Should I expect the plastic clips to break when removing them? Any other common "oops" occurrences in the R/I process?
1. Remove radiator and reservoir hoses.
2. Remove reservoir. (Why??)
3. Disconnect connector for windshield washer and remove that reservoir. (Why??)
4. Remove fan shroud bolts and move towards engine.
5. Remove plastic clips retaining side rubber shields and move shields off to side.
6. Remove radiator bolts & lift radiator straight up.
Why does it tell me to remove both reservoir tanks? When I look down passenger side radiator under cap, I see reservoir hose, bottom radiator hose, and another hose just above bottom rad hose. What hose is this? Should I expect the plastic clips to break when removing them? Any other common "oops" occurrences in the R/I process?
#30
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overflow reservoir and washer tank are attached to the shroud (i think) they're not bolted in, but just sort of clipped. they're a little awkward and heavy, so its best to remove them. while the overflow tank is off, its a good time to clean it out.
clips should not break, but be gentle.
there should be two hoses on passenger side that are your auto trans cooling lines. you'll need a 3/8 inch fuel line disconnect tool. the cheap $5 plastic one is all you need. if it doesn't release squirt a little wd40 up in there.
clips should not break, but be gentle.
there should be two hoses on passenger side that are your auto trans cooling lines. you'll need a 3/8 inch fuel line disconnect tool. the cheap $5 plastic one is all you need. if it doesn't release squirt a little wd40 up in there.