but the switch couldn't turn the dome light on, right?

 

Not sure I savvy that last question.

But since I am sitting staring at the switch, and the manual's directions do not make sense to me, could you tell me a way test the switch in language I might understand???

 

I'm not familiar with the plunger style switch.. I'm sure somebody else can help you out a lot more efficiently than I can..

how many wires coming out of it?
do you have a multi-meter with continuity function?

the notion is to put the tester on the 'hot' wire, and then on the wire that goes to the lights.. with the switch 'off', there should be no continuity, with the switch 'on', there should be.. there may be 'points', or there may be little spades to connect to instead of wires.. the manual will tell you which point/spade does what..

 

Here is the switch. I attached black lead of meter to underside ground terminal and then tested each circle with red lead. Some I got continuity, one struggled to find continuity, and others no reading at all. Should I get a reading for each circle???

I get readings as follows:
On the first row (top to bottom) there are 2 silver and 1 copper circle. From left to right.. 1st circle has continuity, 2nd circle has carbon buildup and struggles to find/hold continuity, and no response to meter from copper circle.
Next row has 3 copper circles, one of which appears to have buildup. No response to meter.
Next row is a single silver circle off to the very left. Has continuity.
Next row has gold, copper and silver cased in copper circles. No response to meter.
Last row is a single silver circle in the right corner. Has continuity.

 

according to the schematic, which of those points is the common power in, or hot wire? you'll want to attach one of your leads from your meter there.. then you will want to make sure the switch is 'on', and take the other lead from your meter to each of the other points.. you should get continuity on each of the points that send power to each corresponding lights point.. in the 'off' position, there should be no continuity..

you say your headlights worked, right? one of the points which had continuity, was that point for the headlamps? You'll have to look at a schematic for which point does what..

 

Im exhausted from reading this post, but good input all around,and hope you get it fixed

 

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk...s+%26+Lighting

 

Good morning, update time.

Since I could not find instructions on how to test the switch from the manual or by googling, I called the local dodge dealer today and talked to the service foreman for a half hour.

I explained what I had done, he said I was testing switch properly, and the lack of clean continuity to one of the terminals indicated to him that it was a faulty switch. Drew, I'm thinking I'm not supposed to be seeing any reading when switch in OFF position either... but I am. But I could NOT get a clear answer from him on whether I should see continuity when the switch is in OFF position, so I'm not taking his conclusion to the bank just yet. He also said to eliminate other possible culprits as follows:

1. test fuse #18
2. using test light, check for power on both pink/red wire and the red/light green wire.
3. test dimmer switch, as this is also known to create similar symptoms as a faulty headlight switch.

Finally, he said what he normally does at the shop if not 100% sure headlight switch is faulty, is to get a known working switch and try that in truck.

There is a blizzard hitting my house right now, but as soon as it passes, I'll run through the additional checks and then go to the parts store to try a new switch.

 

with the switch OFF, there should be no continuity- as a basic understanding..

but- I don't know how that thing is pinned out and what does what.. if there is power always to that one point, that light would always stay on UNLESS there is something downwind of it to limit that from happening- such as the plunger switch in the door jam, for the dome light when the cab is open... I'm going to take a SWAG, and say that THAT point is your dome light..

We need to figure out what point is the running lights.. the dash lights and the running/fog lights come on at the first 'stop' on the plunger, right? We need someone to chime in who knows which point on that switch handles that.. and we need to check continuity on that point..

there is one other thing you can do...

you can swap the wire spade that goes onto the point you get constant continuity (we're supposing its the dome light) and see what light comes on.. if that swapped lead is for your headlights, your headlights will come on... If it's for your dash/running lights, the running+dash lights will come on.. what you would be proving is that there is a bad point on the switch, and the switch will need replacing because of that..

 

Alright Dukes,

we need to discuss the whereabouts of this creature.. It's coming up on New Years Eve, and I need a date..