Rear Brakes Maintenance. When to change?
#1
Rear Brakes Maintenance. When to change?
Hello everyone!
This may be a dumb question, but the front brakes are for regular stopping, and the rear brakes are just for the parking brake, correct? I changed the front brakes today, with no problem, but not the back. I have had the truck since 2005, and I have a 2001 5.2L. I don't think I have ever changed the back brakes, and I was wondering if I should put that on my to-do list, or just wait until they squeal, or not hold.
Thank you!!
This may be a dumb question, but the front brakes are for regular stopping, and the rear brakes are just for the parking brake, correct? I changed the front brakes today, with no problem, but not the back. I have had the truck since 2005, and I have a 2001 5.2L. I don't think I have ever changed the back brakes, and I was wondering if I should put that on my to-do list, or just wait until they squeal, or not hold.
Thank you!!
#2
Rear brakes also help with stopping the truck. The split is something to the tune of 70% front, 30% rear..... So, rears generally need replaced about every third front brake job. (assuming that they work as they should, are kept adjusted, etc.)
Wouldn't hurt to yank the drums, and have a look. How many miles on the truck?
Wouldn't hurt to yank the drums, and have a look. How many miles on the truck?
#3
The rear brakes are for regular braking ~and~ for parking. For regular braking, they're engaged by the wheel cylinders that expand via hydraulic pressure when you step on the brake pedal, and for parking they're engaged by a different mechanical means when you step on the parking brake pedal.
The front brakes do most of the work in stopping the vehicle so the front pads need replacing more often than the rear brake shoes, but the rear shoes definitely do need replacing from time to time.
It's best to replace the rear brake shoes before they're worn to the point that the rivets that secure the lining to the shoes start to contact the drum, thereby requiring the drum to be turned (resurfaced on a brake lathe), or replaced if turning would cause them to have a diameter that is excessive (not have enough material left on them to safely do their job).
It's not at all a bad idea to check them every time you do the fronts, for a few reasons. The longer you leave the drums undisturbed, the harder they'll eventually be to get off when you need to. Each time you take them off, even if you don't replace the shoes, remove any rust from the area where they go over the hubs and coat that area with some anti-seize compound. You can also take that opportunity to break the glaze off the braking surface of the drums and shoes with some 100-150 grit sandpaper, ideally with one of those flap-wheel things on an electric drill. Hand sanding is just as good, just takes longer. Sand in the axis that the tire travels, not across. Also take the time to make sure the star-wheel adjuster turns freely, then adjust the rear brakes by turning the star wheel in the correct direction. The shoes (linings actually) should rub lightly against the drum. Consult a manual for the exact procedure, but lightly rubbing will get you down the road just fine.
Lastly, removing the rear wheels from time to time and putting a little light oil (not anti-seize) on the studs will make it easier on you if you ever have to change a tire when you're on the road. (No, the oil won't make a properly-torqued wheel nut come off). Speaking of that, using a torque wrench on wheel nuts is a great idea.
The front brakes do most of the work in stopping the vehicle so the front pads need replacing more often than the rear brake shoes, but the rear shoes definitely do need replacing from time to time.
It's best to replace the rear brake shoes before they're worn to the point that the rivets that secure the lining to the shoes start to contact the drum, thereby requiring the drum to be turned (resurfaced on a brake lathe), or replaced if turning would cause them to have a diameter that is excessive (not have enough material left on them to safely do their job).
It's not at all a bad idea to check them every time you do the fronts, for a few reasons. The longer you leave the drums undisturbed, the harder they'll eventually be to get off when you need to. Each time you take them off, even if you don't replace the shoes, remove any rust from the area where they go over the hubs and coat that area with some anti-seize compound. You can also take that opportunity to break the glaze off the braking surface of the drums and shoes with some 100-150 grit sandpaper, ideally with one of those flap-wheel things on an electric drill. Hand sanding is just as good, just takes longer. Sand in the axis that the tire travels, not across. Also take the time to make sure the star-wheel adjuster turns freely, then adjust the rear brakes by turning the star wheel in the correct direction. The shoes (linings actually) should rub lightly against the drum. Consult a manual for the exact procedure, but lightly rubbing will get you down the road just fine.
Lastly, removing the rear wheels from time to time and putting a little light oil (not anti-seize) on the studs will make it easier on you if you ever have to change a tire when you're on the road. (No, the oil won't make a properly-torqued wheel nut come off). Speaking of that, using a torque wrench on wheel nuts is a great idea.
Last edited by John D in CT; 01-02-2011 at 07:06 PM.
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There are other problems which can cause rear brakes to wear out sooner than they should that the other posts have not hit on. The wheel cylinders can develop a leak, the drums can become out of round creating a surge, a spring can break and wear into the brake drums among other things. I recommend removing the drums and inspecting the brakes at lease every 50,000 or less. Preventive maintainence is always less costly than total replacement.