Well,

I ordered drilled and slotted rotors, plus some raybestos brake pads from rockauto. The brake pads are the heavy duty semimetallic ones.

I will do a DIY then after the installation and break in, i will do a product review.

I also ordered a Serp belt and dayco idler pulley. Good things to have in the back seat, and have been meaning to do so for a while. The tensioner is still very good, so i skimped on that. I will get a new tensioner when i do my underdrive crank pulley.

Back to ordering the parts. i think my rotors are warped. i had an alignment done, flushed the brake fluid, changed brake pads, and had the rear drums turned. Still have a slight pull. I think its the rotors. If not the rotors, then I need calipers.

 

You didn't have your rotors turned when you did the fronts?

Slotted/crossdrilled rotors look cool, but, their intended purpose was to give the gases from super heating brake pads a place to go. These days, with the advanced compounds the pads are made of, all they do, unfortunately, is provide a place for cracks and such to form.

For the Wow factor, they are pretty good. Me? I'm too cheap.

 

1. No I did not have the rotors turned, I just swapped pads. OEM rotors are so cheap, it would have not been much extra to just get another set of rotors. My Father in law is a mechanic. He never turns rotors, he just gets new ones because they are cheap.

2. You can go 2 ways with brakes:
a. Get really good rotors, and get economy pads
b. Get REALLY good pads, and use OEM rotors, but turn them at each pad change

I opted for A...except I got really good pads as well. I know about cracking, but i figure i would try this out. Summit never sent the Cryogenic treated rotors, the company stopped making them. Rockauto also did not have them in stock anymore. So these rotors are not cryo rotors.

 

Hhhmmm..... There were only a select few cars that I wouldn't turn the rotors on. (GM W bodies.... luminas and such.) Aside from those, I ALWAYS turned rotors on a brake job. I even went so far as to take a couple tenths off of NEW rotors..... as if I didn't, invariably the car would come back with a pedal pulsation.... I hated that.... after the second one, I started doing the new rotors too.

 

I've heard the cross drilled rotors can crack under high heat heavy braking. I ended up getting EBC Sport rotors last spring that or slotted and dimpled.. you get the same effect with the dimmples but do not run the risk of cracking... i posted some pictures in the link below.. nevermind my cheap jack and "jack stand" lol

 

here's what i'm running

http://www.flickr.com/photos/esacizac/3369541542/

 

iwhitne how are you liking them? My Baer rotors have many miles on them, so its time for a replacement.

 

I have Brembo slotted rotors, and I really like them. They made a noticable difference in stopping. I go with ceramic pads (Akebono brand). I personally wouldn't put drilled rotors on my truck, but that's because I tow and haul heavy loads with mine. I've heard too many horror stories about drilled rotors on trucks cracking when towing heavy loads. I'm not willing to find out if they are true or not.

 

My Baer drilled and slotteds are just starting to crack. And they are rusting really badly. Still stops really good though.

 

if you need calipers, i think you should go w/ dual pistons. I mean its only MONEY!... let me know how they work