ABS and Brake Light
#41
01-30-2011, 01:43 AM
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Anybody have any tips for completely removing the ABS? I got my truck used and some mods were done before I got it. It originally had 4 wheel ABS. I had to replace the front hubs. So I put in non-ABS hubs. Problem is the rear sensor also runs to the computer and causes the truck to stall when it doesn't read(unplugged that is). The entire system is junk and I would rather just delete it. Anybody have any tips? It is a 1998 2500 5.9 gas with a nv4500 4x4.
#43
01-30-2011, 10:24 AM
#44
01-30-2011, 12:52 PM
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I removed the brake drum today and the wheel cylinder is leaking fluid and won't move. I'm going to replace both sides tomorrow. Any quick tips? Anything else that I could replace while I'm in there that would save me time later down the road? The shoes are 6 months old. What about brake bleeding tips? It all seems rather easy, maybe just a little time consuming.
#45
01-30-2011, 01:30 PM
Anybody have any tips for completely removing the ABS? I got my truck used and some mods were done before I got it. It originally had 4 wheel ABS. I had to replace the front hubs. So I put in non-ABS hubs. Problem is the rear sensor also runs to the computer and causes the truck to stall when it doesn't read(unplugged that is). The entire system is junk and I would rather just delete it. Anybody have any tips? It is a 1998 2500 5.9 gas with a nv4500 4x4.
It stops the truck a heck of alot better than rear only, I can't imagine no ABS on a truck at all.... actually I can it's no fun seeing the A$$ end of your truck slidding past you.
EDIT I don't see why unplugging the rear sensor would cause your truck to stall, you may have other issues, I would start a new thread
Last edited by VEETEN; 01-30-2011 at 01:33 PM.
#46
01-31-2011, 12:05 PM
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If you are replacing the wheel cylinders anyway.... why not go for an upgrade, and get the chevy 1 ton cylinders? (I think that is correct) They should be direct bolt in, and are larger diameter than the stockers, so, your back brakes are a bit more effective.
Drown the lines that go into the wheel cylinders with your penetrant of choice a day or so before you actually do the job. The nuts like to seize up on the lines, and when you pull 'em, the lines twist and break.
Have a friend help you bleed the brakes, or, get the valves designed for "one man bleeding"...... Draw as much fluid out of the Master Cylinder before you start, and refill with fresh fluid, flush the brakes until the fluid coming out runs nice and clean. DO NOT let the master cylinder go empty......
Might want to flush the old fluid out of the fronts while you are at it.
Drown the lines that go into the wheel cylinders with your penetrant of choice a day or so before you actually do the job. The nuts like to seize up on the lines, and when you pull 'em, the lines twist and break.
Have a friend help you bleed the brakes, or, get the valves designed for "one man bleeding"...... Draw as much fluid out of the Master Cylinder before you start, and refill with fresh fluid, flush the brakes until the fluid coming out runs nice and clean. DO NOT let the master cylinder go empty......
Might want to flush the old fluid out of the fronts while you are at it.
#47
01-31-2011, 12:30 PM
Don't worry about it. Just had another member that didn't like the larger cylinders on the back brakes. Made 'em too touchy.
Do the other side, do the standard bleed, then, grab yourself a friend to sit behind the wheel (steering....), close all the bleeder valves, and have your friend pump up the brakes, and hold them. THEN crack open the bleeder valve. If there is any air left in there, this method will 'shock' it out.
Don't forget to adjust your brakes when you have the drums back on too. Rear brake adjustment controls pedal height/travel.
Do the other side, do the standard bleed, then, grab yourself a friend to sit behind the wheel (steering....), close all the bleeder valves, and have your friend pump up the brakes, and hold them. THEN crack open the bleeder valve. If there is any air left in there, this method will 'shock' it out.
Don't forget to adjust your brakes when you have the drums back on too. Rear brake adjustment controls pedal height/travel.
#48
01-31-2011, 12:40 PM
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I wish I would have went with the larger cylinders now. I saw another thread this morning about them. Oh well. I'll do that and hopefully my brake problems will be over. I will definitely make sure to adjust the "auto adjusters." Whomever come up with those should be punched in the mouth. I adjusted the side I put the new cylinder on and it makes all the difference!
#49
02-10-2011, 05:41 PM
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Hey fellas,
So, I changed the wheel cylinders and adjusted the breaks and now they work like new. Only one problem. I still have the ABS and BRAKE sensor lights on. I took both battery cables off over night and I still have those warnings as soon as you reconnect them. Any Ideas how to get rid of those warning lights without ripping the bulbs out? Would a SCT Tuner remove the ABS codes?
So, I changed the wheel cylinders and adjusted the breaks and now they work like new. Only one problem. I still have the ABS and BRAKE sensor lights on. I took both battery cables off over night and I still have those warnings as soon as you reconnect them. Any Ideas how to get rid of those warning lights without ripping the bulbs out? Would a SCT Tuner remove the ABS codes?
#50
02-10-2011, 05:44 PM
ABS codes aren't reset by disconnecting the battery.... for whatever reason. Sounds like you may have another problem though..... sensor in the top of the diff may have failed. It will turn on both lights.
SCT doesn't do abs codes either..... and probably not the parts store scanners either. Need to find a shop with something a tad meaner, plug in, and see what it thinks. (just replacing the rear sensor might by cheaper though.....)
SCT doesn't do abs codes either..... and probably not the parts store scanners either. Need to find a shop with something a tad meaner, plug in, and see what it thinks. (just replacing the rear sensor might by cheaper though.....)