5k + would make me cringe...

 

two issues here;

one- If I ever have to make a living as a photographer, I'm going to starve.

two- I can't get the damn things apart..

here is what I have though..



I'm attempting to show the 'bowtie' port on the lifter for the oil charge..



This is the lip of the bad injector.. You can see what CM calls 'Cajun Crust' on the thing.. More on that later..



I could get the upper piston out of but one of them. I couldn't get the lower piston to let free.. The bad one is pretty much frozen on the top- and though the pic is not a good one, it shows the Cajun Crust on the lip of the thing. I don't stand a chance to get a good pic of the interior of the cylinder. It also had Cajun Crust on it in place..

I've never had one of these things open before. I assume they are precision machined and are supposed to glide freely yet without interference.. That isn't the case with the bad one, but IS the case with the good one.

The good one let lose it's top piston without provocation.. the lower one was a different story.. I could get it to slide to the mouth of the cylinder, but I couldn't get it out. There is nothing to grasp onto.. It slides freely and easily once all the oil is out of it, but won't take that final little trip and fall out for me..

I don't know which caused my issue.. I'd like to say it was that my engine was ran like a $2 Tijuana ***** on Cinco De Mayo, but I'm stuck on all that 'cajun crust' present.. It could be either, or both.. That crust, simply being present on those things makes me lean that direction at this point.. a chunk of it small enough to pass into the port, but large enough to foul the check ball could be the reason it collapsed.. That spring can't possibly keep up with the RPM's without that oil in it to cushion it's fall..

I'll be getting rid of the synthetic next week.. But, to be honest, the detergents in the dino oil worry me too.. What if they break free some of the crust and the dang things clog again?

 

The detergent action isn't all that strong, really, as it's intended more to keep ash in suspension than to act as a strong solvent. That said, you'll have more stuff floating in the oil than would be there if there was no baked on crud slowly dissolving so it might be best to change the oil at 2,500 miles rather than 3,000 for the first four or five changes.

A few times in the past I've salvaged severely neglected engines that clattered like they were trying to fly apart by changing out the engine oil for a 50:50 mix of engine oil and either ATF or diesel fuel and running at high idle for a half hour to an hour, then changing it out for fresh oil and a new filter. With all of that detergent action no new problems came along and only in one case did I end up replacing lifters -- that were already sticky and clattering. The other two times the noisy lifters quieted right down and ran for many more miles. I don't recommend anyone do this, but that was my experience and why I'd not worry too much about using real oil in your engine.

In fact, if it were mine I'd be replacing a quart of engine oil with a quart of MMO at each change to clean up those lifters in the other bank. But that's just me, and I'm quite often as wrong as dating outside one's own species.

 

how about running some seafoam in the oil , then changing the oil out to conventional ?

i been thinking of getting the sythetic out of mine also, but im stuck on what oil to change too because i have 145xxx on it now and just want the best for it too last me a while

how about sticking to mibil 1 but there convential 5000 stuff http://www.bestcovery.com/mobil-clean-5000

 

I switched from M1 (used in 98 truck) to 10-40 valvoline in my 2000. And of course 1 qt of Rislone, that I've been using for like 30 or more years in every vehicle I've owned. Anytime I had work to do on the motor, like VC gaskets or chains, etc.... they were so clean you could eat off them. MMO is an OK choice too, but I swear by the Rislone.

 

Lifter are hard to get apart I had to use a pick toper air in at the oiling hole to let the check ball out. Lucky the molar snap springs aren't a hassle.

 

Castrol GTX, Castrol Hi Mileage or Valvoline SAE are top quality products with outstanding detergents and anti-breakdown properties.

Do not run synthetics on Dodge Magnums. It just does not work as intended nor as good as dino oil / in-the-ground petroleum-based fossil oil. That's dino oil.

CM

 

+1, when I started using the Rislone, regular oil was no where near as good as it is now. I will keep using it however.

 

I think it may also be a good idea to link this into the motor oil thread for, some of the information here at the end is related to some of the information that I've been trying to convey to users about the pitfalls of using synthetic motor oils.

Just a thought.

CM

 

I've never heard of that material. I'm going to look into that. It looks like you've never experienced any issues when running it either which is a good sign that it's not another Dick50 type of product.

CM