2nd Gen Ram Tech 1994-2001 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 1994 through 2001 Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.

clanking and grinding??

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 01-27-2011, 01:17 PM
95BIGRED's Avatar
95BIGRED
95BIGRED is offline
Professional
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: utah
Posts: 242
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Unhappy clanking and grinding??

just recently my front end has been making clanking and grinding noises when i turn. im almost certain that its the u joint. but the grinding makes me think it might be the bearings. im gonna put on a hub conversion kit when i get the money until then what parts do i need to keep her going down the road till then?
 
  #2  
Old 01-27-2011, 01:20 PM
zman17's Avatar
zman17
zman17 is offline
Retired Moderator - RIP
Join Date: May 2008
Location: NH
Posts: 18,729
Likes: 0
Received 17 Likes on 16 Posts
Default

Replace the ujoint(s) then, before you have more damage done!
 
  #3  
Old 01-27-2011, 01:26 PM
Jamie71's Avatar
Jamie71
Jamie71 is offline
Rookie
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Yea, I would check the u joints, i had the same problem and changed the front wheel u joints and they were bad. Took em apart and there were no pins/needled in the u joints left. Then you want to check the wheel hub assembly, i had to change mine since I had a bad bearing.
 
  #4  
Old 01-27-2011, 01:30 PM
95BIGRED's Avatar
95BIGRED
95BIGRED is offline
Professional
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: utah
Posts: 242
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

so you can replace just the ujoint without having to go replace everything else in there?
 
  #5  
Old 01-27-2011, 01:40 PM
Jamie71's Avatar
Jamie71
Jamie71 is offline
Rookie
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Take the wheels off and if you can move the wheel hub assembly then that is bad, it shouldnt move at all. Other than that it could be your u joints but check the wheel hub assembly first to see if it is bad by using both hands and trying to move it side to side.
 
  #6  
Old 01-27-2011, 05:54 PM
95BIGRED's Avatar
95BIGRED
95BIGRED is offline
Professional
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: utah
Posts: 242
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

ok so another question. do i have to replace the expensive a$$ wheel bearing when i do the ujoint or can i get away with just the ujoint?
 
  #7  
Old 01-28-2011, 08:04 AM
zman17's Avatar
zman17
zman17 is offline
Retired Moderator - RIP
Join Date: May 2008
Location: NH
Posts: 18,729
Likes: 0
Received 17 Likes on 16 Posts
Default

You have to remove the hub assembly, but you don't have to replace it unless you destroy it taking it out.
 
  #8  
Old 01-28-2011, 08:28 AM
thompson1986's Avatar
thompson1986
thompson1986 is offline
Rookie
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Illinois
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

going to go and sound dumb here....whats a hub conversion?
 
  #9  
Old 01-28-2011, 10:29 AM
HeyYou's Avatar
HeyYou
HeyYou is online now
Administrator
Dodge Forum Administrator
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Clayton MI
Posts: 82,509
Likes: 0
Received 3,387 Likes on 3,127 Posts
Default

Getting rid of the unit bearing (hub/bearing assembly) in favor of spindles, and hubs that use tapered roller bearings, like in the old days. Allows use of manual locking hubs, and eliminates the unit bearing. MUCH easier to maintain, and FAR cheaper to repair.

I have seen kits for doing it for right around 600 bucks, up to over 2 grand....... Dyna-Trac, and Spin-Tec are two such companies that make 'em.

If you wanna try and do your own conversion, the mid 90's ford one ton trucks used dana 60's, and just grab everything from the knuckle out, and put it on yours. (make sure it is a ball joint diff, and not the king pin variety though, king pin type won't work for ya.)
 
  #10  
Old 01-28-2011, 02:10 PM
matty675's Avatar
matty675
matty675 is offline
Record Breaker
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Chesapeake, VA
Posts: 1,504
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

might as well atleast check the hub assemsblies BEFORE you go and put a BAD part back on. if their seized, theyre likely bad.

I cant stress this enough: MINIMIZE AXLE SHAFT CONTACT WITH THE TUBE, DO NOT CLEAN OUT THE AXLE TUBE, youll just knock dirt and grit onto the seals and youll HAVE A LEAK. its really a crapshoot, the seals may or may not take the abuse...

hub nut is 1-11/16" and takes ALOT of persuasion
 


Quick Reply: clanking and grinding??



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:17 PM.