clanking and grinding??
just recently my front end has been making clanking and grinding noises when i turn. im almost certain that its the u joint. but the grinding makes me think it might be the bearings. im gonna put on a hub conversion kit when i get the money until then what parts do i need to keep her going down the road till then?
Yea, I would check the u joints, i had the same problem and changed the front wheel u joints and they were bad. Took em apart and there were no pins/needled in the u joints left. Then you want to check the wheel hub assembly, i had to change mine since I had a bad bearing.
Take the wheels off and if you can move the wheel hub assembly then that is bad, it shouldnt move at all. Other than that it could be your u joints but check the wheel hub assembly first to see if it is bad by using both hands and trying to move it side to side.
You have to remove the hub assembly, but you don't have to replace it unless you destroy it taking it out.
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Getting rid of the unit bearing (hub/bearing assembly) in favor of spindles, and hubs that use tapered roller bearings, like in the old days. Allows use of manual locking hubs, and eliminates the unit bearing. MUCH easier to maintain, and FAR cheaper to repair.
I have seen kits for doing it for right around 600 bucks, up to over 2 grand....... Dyna-Trac, and Spin-Tec are two such companies that make 'em.
If you wanna try and do your own conversion, the mid 90's ford one ton trucks used dana 60's, and just grab everything from the knuckle out, and put it on yours. (make sure it is a ball joint diff, and not the king pin variety though, king pin type won't work for ya.)
I have seen kits for doing it for right around 600 bucks, up to over 2 grand....... Dyna-Trac, and Spin-Tec are two such companies that make 'em.
If you wanna try and do your own conversion, the mid 90's ford one ton trucks used dana 60's, and just grab everything from the knuckle out, and put it on yours. (make sure it is a ball joint diff, and not the king pin variety though, king pin type won't work for ya.)
might as well atleast check the hub assemsblies BEFORE you go and put a BAD part back on. if their seized, theyre likely bad.
I cant stress this enough: MINIMIZE AXLE SHAFT CONTACT WITH THE TUBE, DO NOT CLEAN OUT THE AXLE TUBE, youll just knock dirt and grit onto the seals and youll HAVE A LEAK. its really a crapshoot, the seals may or may not take the abuse...
hub nut is 1-11/16" and takes ALOT of persuasion
I cant stress this enough: MINIMIZE AXLE SHAFT CONTACT WITH THE TUBE, DO NOT CLEAN OUT THE AXLE TUBE, youll just knock dirt and grit onto the seals and youll HAVE A LEAK. its really a crapshoot, the seals may or may not take the abuse...
hub nut is 1-11/16" and takes ALOT of persuasion







