need to replace rear end
#11
I've had my truck in storage for over a year, with the engine, the tranny and the rea-end off.
Have the engine totally rebuilt, and I'm putting everything back into the bell housing today.
I was able to get new gears for $100, (had to get a shop to replace the pinion gear and crush sleeve), and will put the new LSD in after I've rebuilt the rear brakes (have to remove both shafts).. Its defiently been fun.... I can't believe my truck has been down this long.
Funny thing is, it never broke down I just had other cars, and decided to replace the drivetrain.
Haven't posted in over a year, just saw you talking about rear-ends, and think the prices before you are crazy..
Even $650 for a rear seems hi....Used.
Have you checked online??
I know I had a hell of a time, finding the drum backing plates (had major damage to one) and I was able to source a complete rear end for parts for $100. In the NOLA area.
Now I only used the backing plates, and the shafts, but still man, that price you got is high.
Have the engine totally rebuilt, and I'm putting everything back into the bell housing today.
I was able to get new gears for $100, (had to get a shop to replace the pinion gear and crush sleeve), and will put the new LSD in after I've rebuilt the rear brakes (have to remove both shafts).. Its defiently been fun.... I can't believe my truck has been down this long.
Funny thing is, it never broke down I just had other cars, and decided to replace the drivetrain.
Haven't posted in over a year, just saw you talking about rear-ends, and think the prices before you are crazy..
Even $650 for a rear seems hi....Used.
Have you checked online??
I know I had a hell of a time, finding the drum backing plates (had major damage to one) and I was able to source a complete rear end for parts for $100. In the NOLA area.
Now I only used the backing plates, and the shafts, but still man, that price you got is high.
#12
Sorry to keep bombarding the forum with questions, but I've found a Timken Differential Rebuild Kit that looks like it'd do the trick. But I thought I'd run it by you guys first - is this what I'm looking for? Am I likely to need anything else?
Thanks,
~Dean
Thanks,
~Dean
Try popping the cover off of the diff (keep in mind that gear oil is going to get everywhere), and take some DETAILED pics. It would help us determine what you need more accurately. It would be hard to tell from pics if an axle shaft is broken though, that's something you'd have to check yourself.
Try searching for chrysler 9.25 or 9 1/4 rear end. Unless i'm mistaken, thats the correct model for your truck. Might turn up more results than the model year alone.
4x4 only really matters when the front axle comes into the question, however, it is important that both axles are geared the same.
EDIT: It would be smart put chocks under front tires and jack up the rear end (you can jack from the axle tube)support on jack stands, then take off the diff cover, and shift to neutral. After you have the cover off, rotate the driveshaft (or tires) to turn the innards of the diff between pics. This allows us to view the ring gear in different spots to check for broken teeth
Last edited by Mad_Scientist; 02-16-2011 at 06:51 PM.
#13
Look on Craigslist, chrysler 9.25's sell for $100 and are plentiful and complete drum to drum. When mine blew up I found at least 3 within driving distance for that price (all with around 100k miles). Just getting a new axle will be far cheaper than having one rebuilt and rebuilding a 9.25 is not worth it IMO. They are strong for a 1/2 ton but eat up pinion bearings, whats what mine did. Make sure the axle is from a 1/2 ton 2nd gen dodge truck not a van ect. Vans are different widths and 3/4 tons had 8-lug axles. If they are good you can save the axle shafts and diff cover and make a few bucks back.
Make sure you use jackstands on the frame. I put mine farther forward where the frame is lower and used wheel chocks on the front wheels. Jack up the truck using the rear axle, install jack stands and remember that the rear suspension will sag. It really isn't very hard but be careful with the brake lines on the frame so you don't have to replace them.
Make sure you use jackstands on the frame. I put mine farther forward where the frame is lower and used wheel chocks on the front wheels. Jack up the truck using the rear axle, install jack stands and remember that the rear suspension will sag. It really isn't very hard but be careful with the brake lines on the frame so you don't have to replace them.
#14
Look on craigslist and go to local junkyards should be easy to come by one, they are taken out and sold cheap when doing axle swaps, and they dont have much of a following in smaller vehicles, I wouldnt pay 650 for a used one unless it was 100% complete and ready to go, you can use your brakes and drums and save on that should be around $200 for the whole rear end(housing/diff/axles)
And the prices you got from the shop sounds like they were going to rebuild the trannsmission and then some
And the prices you got from the shop sounds like they were going to rebuild the trannsmission and then some
#15
assuming you have a major problem with the ring or pinion or bearings or lsd carrier, etc, then replace the entire rear end assembly, drum to drum with one from a junkyard. it'll be cheaper and faster than rebuilding the guts of your original.
a complete swap is a simple do-it-yourself.
trying to rebuild the guts requires more know how, tools, etc and you'll have to pay someone $300-400-500 labor + parts.
a complete swap is a simple do-it-yourself.
trying to rebuild the guts requires more know how, tools, etc and you'll have to pay someone $300-400-500 labor + parts.
#17
All the eight lug rear ends were full floaters. (except the light duty 3/4 tons, built in 94-95.... if you can find one, with the right gears....... should be able to just swap stuff around. Rare as hen's teeth though.)
Is anything wrong with your current rear end?
#19
yea
i have that rear end, but it went out at 85,000 miles and when i got it replaced by a " dodge specialist " he didnt put the pinion in right and it roared ever since then. After 2 years and about 5000 miles i was driving one day and it acted like it was going to lock up, so i have been looking for a new one or parts to fix the one i have.....i know i left out a few periods and commas there but it frustrates me something awful
#20