Anyone ever done this? I've looked around and it looks like a serious pain to rebuild this rear end. I've got the 9.25" Corporate w/ the anti-slip differential and the wheels don't quite act the way I remember limited slip differentials working. It will spin both tires in the snow, loose dirt, etc. I've never tried to do a burn out since I don't want to flog the truck around that much. If I get one tire on something slippery, and the other on the pavement I'll get stuck really quickly.

Anyone have a guide, or have you ever done this yourself? I know the clutch packs are like $60.00. (that is, if I found the right ones) Here's the ones I found.

http://www.ringpinion.com/PartsList....D=110&CatID=91

If posting a link to there is not allowed, please feel free to remove it. I didn't see anything in the rules about it when I looked.

 

Posting links is not against the rules.

http://www.off-roadweb.com/tech/1011...lok/index.html

 

I never though I would say this, but this looks out of my league. Is it really as hard as it looks? I wouldn't want to get in there and start making a mess out of things since I've never really messed with this kind of rear end before. Any idea how much a shop might charge to do this?

 

You would never know unless you tried.

What a shop would charge? Arm and leg.

 

Very similar to the 9.25 and it's for your front end..... the D44 service manual.
https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...thkey=CNCt3a8O
It really looks like the worst part is spreading the case and then setting the backlash.
The above manual may make it seem a bit more simple then the one Purple posted though

 

EDIT: I've got a 4x2, so nothing on the front end here. =)

From reading that it sounds like my clutch packs might be working as intended, as they don't "lock" up like I am thinking they should. Apparently they don't send full power to both wheels like the posi-locks on my old mopars do. I'll probably pull the cover off, flush the fluid out of the clutch packs really good, and refill with the proper lube/friction modifier and see if that makes it any better. Does anyone know if it's really a bad thing to have the clutches not working properly? (if they aren't)

BTW, I just tried the little test on dry pavement/grass and it climbed right up the hill without an issue. Does this mean that they work? From reading the manual it seems like that's really the only way to test that they do.

 

The posi locks on these trucks are not true lockers, they are limited slips. They wont send full power to both wheels like a locker.

 

Here: https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...c-lok-lsd.html