Here's what I'm thinking. Besides, why would I buy an MT in and AT world.

If the trans shifts a bit rough now and then it could be the clutch or the synchros. But if shifting into or out of 4X4 on the fly and I get a little grind now and then I'm thinking Clutch only.

Sychros would not effect the transfer case, correct? Clutch, yes.

So, replacing the clutch this spring/summer "should" eliminate any shifting issues I'm experience.

I suppose there could still be synchro issues, but I'm thinking the clutch is the bigger culprit.

 

The clutch has nothing to do with shifting in or out of 4wd. That noise is the axle engaging or the transfer case.

 

your going to get a grind here or there with 4x4 in our trucks...its normal....but if its the clutch, the gears wouldnt catch/or it would be slipping.....4x4, like zman said, has nothing to do with the clutch.....put the truck in neutral and shift to 4x4, that will probably fix your grind issue....

with 207K on my truck ive had it grind maybe 4-5 times....and i go offroading ALOT.....but i never ever shift on the fly, i always stop, put it in neutral, then shift....

 

So, even if the clutch is not failing you could still have grinding in the transfer case at any speed above 0, or not in neutral?

 

its typical to get a grind...its normal....i shift to neutral because im cautious with it....ive never tried shift on the fly...just dont trust it.

 

Yea, because the transfer case is still partially spinning as is the the front axle. It plain and simple has nothing to do with the clutch. Or how would an AT work without stopping and putting it in neutral.

 

Shifting from 4 hi to 2 hi, and back, shouldn't grind, as there are indeed synchros for that. (at least, the t-case shouldn't....) 4 Lo however, is NOT synchronized, and will grind if you don't hold your face just right.

 

My thinking was that from 2hi to 4hi there should be no grinding at lower speeds (under 15-20mph) have never had a 4x4 grind at those low speeds. If my clutch is grabbing then there would still be some input from the engine causing the grind.

I'm not a clutch/trans/Tcase guy. Not much of a car guy at that, but I can fix most stuff with little trouble. I'm also finding there are not many manual tranas experts left in this world. Talked to quite a few shops in the area and have yet to get a decent answer...always get could be this (clutch) or could be that (synchros). Already had that thought.

I can do the clutch myself...need the alignment tool, but I think I can find a spare $15 for it. Besides, with 167K on the truck, 165K of them not from me I have no idea how much or little the previous owner rode the clutch. Figure might as well tackle the cheapest and easiest first.


What is the "AT" in the reference below Zman17?

thanks.

 

If you are getting grinding shifting from 2 hi, to 4 hi, even with the clutch pressed, first thing I would check is fluid level in the t-case. Next thing I would check is if the snap-ring that holds the rear output shaft in place, has broken. (drop the rear driveshaft, pull the tailhousing off of the T-case. Should be right by the bearing where the output shaft sticks thru it.)

If both of those seem ok, its possible that the syncros in the T-case are just getting tired.

 

OK.. If you are moving and want to shift on the fly, don't push in the clutch, just shift. If you are stopped, it doesn't matter and there should be no grind either way. To shift into 4lo, while stopped just press the clutch, wait a second or two to make sure everything has stopped spinning, and it should drop right in, doesn't matter if it's in gear or nuetral.