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Installing headers question

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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 05:59 PM
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Default Installing headers question

I have a set of stainless headers shorties that I am going to attempt to put on my 99 3/4 4x4 and was wondering how difficult this job is going to be? I have the stock bolts soaking in penetrating oil now so I hopefully will not break any off and I am in the process of getting header bolts any pointers would be appreciated...........Thanks
 
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 06:02 PM
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Depending on what brand they are, it can range from not that hard to PITA. I tried to install some eBay headers but they were to big of a pain to do.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 06:23 PM
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when it comes to be 'collector plate' time, i can't stress enough how much easier it is to have that thing in the air.. if not, you'll play hell.. the best trick i've come up with is tie down straps.. the kind that ratchet.. hook your pipes at the y and crank them into position..

one more thing: if you're not eliminating that Y you're wasting your time.. that thing is the most restrictive part of stock exhaust, and by a huge margin.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 06:41 PM
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I took a torch and heated the area around the bolts to help keep from breaking them off.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 01:00 AM
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i am currently putting on headers myself all the bolts came out fairly easily, except the bolt closest to the firewall on the passenger side snapped off flush on me, and one of the studs on the driver side broke and wouldnt budge. Well there was no getting the bolt out on the passenger side, so i pulled the heads and i guess good thing i did, my valve seats were cracked. THese heads are garbage, the truck has never been over heated and regularly serviced. Hopefully you have better luck then me
 
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 11:12 AM
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I just pulled the stock heads off mine to put on Iron Rams. Im looking to sell these stock heads (valves and all) if youre interested. I'll still need to Magnaflux them for you first. let me know
 
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by drewactual
when it comes to be 'collector plate' time, i can't stress enough how much easier it is to have that thing in the air.. if not, you'll play hell.. the best trick i've come up with is tie down straps.. the kind that ratchet.. hook your pipes at the y and crank them into position..

one more thing: if you're not eliminating that Y you're wasting your time.. that thing is the most restrictive part of stock exhaust, and by a huge margin.
What do you suggest after headers, aftermarket Y-pipe X-pipe or what?
 
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 12:12 PM
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anything other than the OE Y pipe.. I think you can get a Jeggs Offroad Y, or a magnaflow Y.. which just about HAVE to have a better design than the OE.. You may be able to get an exhaust shop to weld you one up too- so long as they cut and weld.. the OE one I cut off (and open out of curiosity) was two adjoining pipes that had been crushed together and sleeved into one..
 
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 12:23 PM
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O ok well than ya, anything is better than the OEM Y haha, I was thinking X but if not a definate aftermarket Y pipe, thanks
 
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by drewactual
when it comes to be 'collector plate' time, i can't stress enough how much easier it is to have that thing in the air.. if not, you'll play hell.. the best trick i've come up with is tie down straps.. the kind that ratchet.. hook your pipes at the y and crank them into position..

one more thing: if you're not eliminating that Y you're wasting your time.. that thing is the most restrictive part of stock exhaust, and by a huge margin.
Best way to crack your headers primaries to. After releasing the strap all that stress/pressure is put on the headers. Do agree the y-pipe is very restrictive along with the cat or cats in some cases. From whats available to these trucks the JEGS pipe with cat delete looks best if you can do a cat delete. Doug Thorley headers do replace the down pipes to 2.5in then into a y or cat but there 600 buck's wow.
 
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