Leaf Spring Conversion With Pictures
Champion
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,831
Likes: 1
From: Miami, Fl
On the 99 and older trucks the LD and HD 2500 brake calipers will swap right in with some new pads.
The LD ones make a difference(thats what I have) in stopping that is noticeable with no weight behind and stays noticeable with weight behind.
The only reason I didnt go with the HD ones is because I pulled part numbers off a chevy and since I have the same calipers that are on my brothers truck it makes it easier
The LD ones make a difference(thats what I have) in stopping that is noticeable with no weight behind and stays noticeable with weight behind.
The only reason I didnt go with the HD ones is because I pulled part numbers off a chevy and since I have the same calipers that are on my brothers truck it makes it easier
Thread Starter
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Veteran
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 316
Likes: 0
From: Raonoke, IL
Do you need a panhard/track bar with leaf sprung front axle. no
But will you want one? that'll depend on how you use that beast.
If it's mostly all offroad then you can probably get away with not using one. But if you plan on street driving then you most likely will like to have one. It would add steering stability and help to not wear out the leaf spring bushings prematurely. Which is going to depend on how hard of a bushing is used. The larger the spring arch the more leverage the axle can exude on the bushings and the shackles (I mention shackles because I have heard of shackles collapsing from the side forces).
Old 4x4 leaf sprung front ends did not have panhards, but the spring arch wasn't necessarily very large. The newer ford super duty with leafs and solid axles use a Panhard bar. I believe I read some factory leaf front suspension jeeps came with panhards also(but I can't confirm that, but i didn't look for confirmation). Basically for vehicles(with leaf front suspension) that spend most of their life on the street will benefit from the added stability of a panhard bar.
Now i am talking about a properly designed bar. Since you will need a custom one, it would be beneficial to read up on the proper geometry and design. Once you finish the steering and are able to drive it you should be able to decide if you want the added benefit of the panhard bar. A properly designed bar also should not inhibit flex much.
With those big tires you may also want to start thinking about brake upgrades, if you haven't already got some planned.
Good luck with either route you take.
When you do get the truck mobile and take it through some mud, could you post on how well those large rear leafs deal with axle wrap. Just curious.
Also could we get a pic of the side view that is more perpendicular?
But will you want one? that'll depend on how you use that beast.
If it's mostly all offroad then you can probably get away with not using one. But if you plan on street driving then you most likely will like to have one. It would add steering stability and help to not wear out the leaf spring bushings prematurely. Which is going to depend on how hard of a bushing is used. The larger the spring arch the more leverage the axle can exude on the bushings and the shackles (I mention shackles because I have heard of shackles collapsing from the side forces).
Old 4x4 leaf sprung front ends did not have panhards, but the spring arch wasn't necessarily very large. The newer ford super duty with leafs and solid axles use a Panhard bar. I believe I read some factory leaf front suspension jeeps came with panhards also(but I can't confirm that, but i didn't look for confirmation). Basically for vehicles(with leaf front suspension) that spend most of their life on the street will benefit from the added stability of a panhard bar.
Now i am talking about a properly designed bar. Since you will need a custom one, it would be beneficial to read up on the proper geometry and design. Once you finish the steering and are able to drive it you should be able to decide if you want the added benefit of the panhard bar. A properly designed bar also should not inhibit flex much.
With those big tires you may also want to start thinking about brake upgrades, if you haven't already got some planned.
Good luck with either route you take.
When you do get the truck mobile and take it through some mud, could you post on how well those large rear leafs deal with axle wrap. Just curious.
Also could we get a pic of the side view that is more perpendicular?
about brakes. i assumed i would have to do some kind of up grade to the brakes but again, i dont want to sink a bunch of money into brakes when ill be upgrading to D60s in the future. so i was going to see if i could get by with really good pads and maybe slotted rotors...
i will be putting the rear blocks but in the rear in the next few days. i can get pictures then. unless you want to see it the way it is now. the leafs also worried me. there is so much arch in them that theres a small gap in the front and rear between the mount and spring. so im also curious to see how that holds up....
Thread Starter
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Veteran
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 316
Likes: 0
From: Raonoke, IL
On the 99 and older trucks the LD and HD 2500 brake calipers will swap right in with some new pads.
The LD ones make a difference(thats what I have) in stopping that is noticeable with no weight behind and stays noticeable with weight behind.
The only reason I didnt go with the HD ones is because I pulled part numbers off a chevy and since I have the same calipers that are on my brothers truck it makes it easier
The LD ones make a difference(thats what I have) in stopping that is noticeable with no weight behind and stays noticeable with weight behind.
The only reason I didnt go with the HD ones is because I pulled part numbers off a chevy and since I have the same calipers that are on my brothers truck it makes it easier
and could someone please fill me in more on rear brakes? swapping to chevy, etc.
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,429
Likes: 4,215
From: Clayton MI
If you are going to swap to D60's SOON, don't worry about the current brakes, just keep in mind that they are not really up to the task, given your current mods. Save the money to sink into the new, better, axles.
Record Breaker
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,430
Likes: 2
From: WV
I wish I had a shop like yours to work on my truck in.
About the rear drums I went to the part store and asked for 1995 (because my truck is a 95) Chevy 1 ton dually wheel cylinders. Bolt right in its as easy as installing the stock ones.
About the rear drums I went to the part store and asked for 1995 (because my truck is a 95) Chevy 1 ton dually wheel cylinders. Bolt right in its as easy as installing the stock ones.
Legend
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 7,843
Likes: 13
From: DFW, Texas
The older dodge's (pre-2000) had 1" (or maybe it was even 15/16ths) wheel cylinders on the rear wheels. The 2500HD and 3500 ram 1 ton has a wheel cylinder of 1 1/16th. In 2000-2001 they upgraded all rams to the 1 1/16th wheel cylinder.
The GMC/Chevy 1 tons are even beefier at 1 3/16" bore and engage much firmer. They unfortunately do not swap into the 2000-2001 ram, as I learned the hard way several years ago.
There was some debate that a larger BMC would be more beneficial to run the bigger cylinders, and I can't swear by this, but I believe the 2000-2001 rams do have a larger BMC and reservoir than earlier years due to that bigger bore in the rear cylinders. Cross referencing part numbers at rockauto.com or napaonline.com may give you the answer, if you are so inclined to check.
The GMC/Chevy 1 tons are even beefier at 1 3/16" bore and engage much firmer. They unfortunately do not swap into the 2000-2001 ram, as I learned the hard way several years ago.
There was some debate that a larger BMC would be more beneficial to run the bigger cylinders, and I can't swear by this, but I believe the 2000-2001 rams do have a larger BMC and reservoir than earlier years due to that bigger bore in the rear cylinders. Cross referencing part numbers at rockauto.com or napaonline.com may give you the answer, if you are so inclined to check.
