Changed the U joint in my truck earlier, front passenger side one. Went smooth other than u joint being a pita to get apart. Test drove it, seems fine, but after driving it probably 20 miles or so now my abs and brake light are both on. Can't figure out why, brake fluid is good, brakes work perfect, no odd noises or anything. Any ideas? Honestly just seems like some stupid sensor went bad. Supposed to be pulling a trailer with 5 or so quads on it tomorrow, but this issue is making me a little weary pulling a decent amount of weight with, even tho everything appears to work fine.

Edit: If relevant the spedo works fine.

 

Was there an abs sensor on the front hub/bearing assembly? If there was, did you plug it back in?

 

+1 with what hey you said.
If you have front ABS I would say you may not have had the sensor wire tucked back against the knuckle properly and it got cut by the rotor, it happened on mine like this.
A simple resistance check of each sensor will verify if its good.
under hood on top of each wheel well has a plug that goes to each hub sensor.

Should be about 1000 ohms IIRC

This is only if you have the 4 wheel ABS, if not ignore all that I posted. LOL

 

I am suspecting a similar scenario on my truck. I replaced the hub around 6 weeks ago and about 3 weeks ago the ABS/Parking light has come on.

My question now is, can just the sensor wire be bought? If it can how does that b*tch come off? I remember on my old hub there was a bolt holding the sensor wire in but with the bolt out, it still seemed like something was holding the wire into the hub. I didn't spend much time on it and now have chucked it.......

 

No, mine doesnt have this. Actually replaced the wheel bearing on this side fairly recently and had to take the new part back at first because they gave me the one for the abs sensor.

 

Yes the sensor is available seperate, I got a OEM from dealer about $80.
To remove take out the bolt and carefully pull up on sensor while rotating a little bit.
There is just a o-ring keping it in the hub but mine broke in 2 when I changed it.
My computer took 3-4 days before it recognized the sensor.

 

To the OP
3 common ABS problems for RWAL are

Speed sensor or connection on rear differential

Brakes need to be re-bled

the brake line that runs over your gas tank has a pinhole in it and will fail soon

 

Well we can cross out scenario three, as my brake line over the tank did have a hole on it, and it was replaced. Was very noticeable when this was bad, though as the brakes would lock up. The brakes needing to be bled kind of doesn't make sense only because the brakes work completely fine, the pedal isn't spongy or anything.

Ok, so lets say it is the speed sensor, wouldn't that mess with my speedometer? Spedo seems to work fine. And if it is this, how urgent is it that i change it? What are the ill effects? I imagine it is relatively simple to replace?

 

I just finished doing a resistance check on the sensors and have over 1000 ohms on each front and 1900 ohms on the new rear sensor, so I'm assuming the sensors are good now......

My Haynes manual says I can retrieve codes using a jumper wire on terminal 13 of the diagnostic connector and counting flashes of the amber abs light.

My question now is how exactly do you go about grounding terminals on the diagnostic connector? I've figured out which one is #13 but thats about as far as I want to go without knowing what the hell I'm doing, lol.

Can anyone guide me through this? I'm fairly good at the mechanical end of things but with electronics.........not so good, lol

 

My abs and brake light came on when my wheel bearing went i plugged the new hub in after i replaced it and the lights been on ever since with no problems i think the lights just need to be reset then it'll be fine.