Anyone done a NP241DLD transfer case rebuild?

I was searching through the site and couldn't find crap on the 241 case? Mine just started sounding like a fast grind only under load. Like that of a small splined drive shaft, but in 2WD? In 4WD you can hear it wanting to, but just can't get-r-done.

In reality I would normally have it done at my favorite shop, but I just dumped too much into my boat and RV so I'm thinking of doing the rebuild. But here is the SOB part, I don't have my shop anymore and not even a workbench or vice. So is it still "Do-able" or not?.......Never rebuilt a T-case, however I don't think it would be that hard as I've done many gear boxes.

 

If you have done transmissions, the t-case will be a piece of cake. It won't be as easy as having a shop, but, if you still have all your tools, its still doable.

I don't know if the 241LD has the same snap ring issues as the 231, but, that might just be the whole problem.

 

Engines yes, Clutches yes, differentials yes, industrial cases yes, clutches yes, but never a transfer case/transmission.


The sh!ty thing is, now I'm thinkin about it possibly could be the differential as well. I just had the truck re-geared 1000 miles ago? A pinion gear to ring gear could be it as well, but I don't think I would feel it like that in the T-case shifter.

 

Drop the rear driveshaft, pull the extension housing off the t-case, and check that snap ring. Might be a quick and easy fix now...... or, a blown up t-case later.

 

Nice!

I forgot about that!


*Edit*
When I remove the extension housing do I loose trans oil or is it dry?

 

I think the level is actually below that.... so, it might drip a bit, but, I think that's it.

 

Trans fluid from the trans should be sealed from the transfer case if I remember right. Just what ever is in the extension housing after lubing the rear bearing.
In my case there was nothing since the PO never checked it in 200K miles till it went bang and I got a cheap truck!

 

Update!

First off, the T-case is actually a NP241DLD Made by New Venture, as the seal was hard to read until I dropped her out. I will re-name my thread.


Well I decided to pull the T-case out because it had a slight leak in the input shaft only when it was REALLY cold outside it would drip just a few drops after use (about 3 hours later). I contribute this to the seal being old, fragile, and brittle; when it would get that cold outside the Fully Synthetic fluid could seep through. Not to mention I was thinking the input snap ring had failed because of the sound.

Well the front input shaft snap ring was fine, the problem was in fact the rear output shaft snap ring had worn a slight pitch in it and had popped out of it's grove on the shaft. I tryed finding the infamous Gilly's Transfer Case Saver coupler but we are out a few days, so I'm going to order one but until then I found myself down to the local farm tractor parts shop (Golden Spike) and they had the same type snap ring and a slightly different one. Well these seem a little harder as they were a huge b!tch to get in.

I replaced the input seal on the T-case and I looked at the transmission output seal, however that one is new so after a look around the town and nobody has it I will take my chances and just leave it. I cleaned out the weep hole in the bottom of the transmission plate between the T-case and trans and sealed it up. I had to make a gasket for this area as well. I understand that I don't need one from the service manual but I made one anyway to try and get SOME kind of seal in case the seals weep. The gasket material I used was a rubber/gasket mix about 2mm thick (black from NAPA).

Upon draining the fluid I did fine a tiny bit of metal flake but VERY little and 4X4 felt good. I'm going to use ATF+4 conventional for maybe 100 miles for a good clean up then switch back over to Fully Synthetic ATF+4.

Gettin her back together right now and also found the bad U-joint I've been feeling on the diff yoke so I will take care of both the rear U-joints while I have it out.

As to answer my question, the rear extension housing has a black boot type protective cover that the rear drive line yoke that helps seal out mud and debris. However on the inside of this seal is a double lip seal that seals around the yoke shaft because the output bearing is an open style. So yes when you pull the drive line there is fluid that comes out, and when you seporate the T-case from the trans there is fluid weep if the weep hose is sealed.

Parts for this T-case are a b!tch to find......LOL

 

Not trying to resurrect an old thread but did replacing the snap ring fix your problem? I have a similar problem with my 2001 Ram 2500 that is doing the same thing. It seems to hold in gear ok under decel but under throttle you have to pull the shift lever back hard in 4 hi all the way back in able to get high range. If you take tension off the stick, the transfer case grinds like a moose thigh bone going through a wood chipper. I havnt taken it apart yet. Hopefully tomorrow. I am hoping it is just a broken or loose snap ring but I am thinking that it is more likely gonna be worn out shift fork. 4 low works fine.

This all happened when I snapped a front axle shaft after getting stuck.

 

Food for thought.

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...241-np243.html


From what you are describing, it sounds like the snap ring to me. When it isn;t in place the T-case mainshaft moves around, which can cause the chain to slip. Funny, my gear driven divorced 205 has never given me an issues...