Going to pick up my skank of a truck today from the transmission guy. Rebuild, OD unit, and drive shaft u-joints were definately done...we'll see what else needed attention when I get the receipt.

Last time I talked to him, it was going to be around $2,000.

 

Good luck, most of us have been there lol.

 

$2000 actually sounds reasonable.

 

Well he actually said around $2300, but I am sure it will end up being a bit more...

Not all that upset though. With the CTD behind that auto trans, which just rolled 160,000 miles, I figure if I spend the money now, I will own the truck for years to come. The motor is bulletproof, the body is great (except for one rocker pannel), and the frame is sound.

 

So you have a 48re trans, not the 46re behind the gasser.

that is odd, I dont hear of the 48re failing nearly as often, and not usually that early. If there is a check valve in the trans cooler line as there is on the 46re, get it removed by the trans tech.

 

I thought it was the 47re but I could be wrong...And I did the CV delete on my 95 gasser, I forgot to even look for that on this one.

 

If you don't mind me asking, where would i find the numbers on my tranny to figure out which one it is? and the check valve, is that internal of the trans or external? I haven't done it, and i'd like to get the most out of my trans before going through what TimSully88 is lol. Money's hard to find theses days.

 

The check valve is external of the trans. It you look on the passenger side of your engine comp right next to the coolers, you will see it. Search for the thread/DIY on here there are good pics and instructions.

As far as the trans, I do not remember, but if you run the vin with a dealer, they should be able to tell you. Check for stickers under the hood too.

 

Update from the mechanic 5 mins ago... Did a flush and found rotted cooler lines. So the truck will not be ready today and it will be another $300, bringing the grand estimated total to $2600... woof

 

Judging from you login name (97 ram) and below it says 1500, means you have a 46re (auto), or nv3500 (manual).

Here is the check valve delete DIY. There are a few variations on the forum of how to do it, but the ending result is the same. Some follow the DIY, some cut the flare end off and clamp a hose on both ends without any brass fittings. I ended up trying the DIY and failing... twice lol. One with teflon tape, one attempt without (was a debate at the time whether to use it or not)... new fittings both times. I ended up getting a custom hydraulic line made at a local shop and used thread sealant on assembly. No issues with weeping anymore. Follow the link below and you will see my troubles and alternatives others suggested.

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...-at-least.html