torque converter stall range
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From: Cape Carteret NC
procomp.. bingo..
you could use four.. it would be a good rig w/ an alternating current controller (not a/c, it is still d/c, it just alternates the d/c juice if that makes any sense).. you could have one on with ignition, one kick on and vary speed based on temperature, and two OhSh ones that come on all at once when a certain temperature is achieved.
as long as you're pushing at least 3200cfm on your rig you should be okay.. add 'em up and make sure to hit that magic number.. it's said the clutch fan can move 4Kcfm, and it may be true for all I know- but more isn't going to hurt anything but amperage draw.. if you've got the juice to do it, run as much as you can is my position on the matter.
edited to add: the start up pull is the demon with these things.. if you run four, and they all kick at the same time- you're going to draw hella amps.. you could put a higher rated relay on it (say, 70a) and be alright, but do you really wanna draw that much? THAT is the reason i suggested variable speed fans before.. they have a miniscule kick on amperage draw compared to the one speed fans.
you could use four.. it would be a good rig w/ an alternating current controller (not a/c, it is still d/c, it just alternates the d/c juice if that makes any sense).. you could have one on with ignition, one kick on and vary speed based on temperature, and two OhSh ones that come on all at once when a certain temperature is achieved.
as long as you're pushing at least 3200cfm on your rig you should be okay.. add 'em up and make sure to hit that magic number.. it's said the clutch fan can move 4Kcfm, and it may be true for all I know- but more isn't going to hurt anything but amperage draw.. if you've got the juice to do it, run as much as you can is my position on the matter.
edited to add: the start up pull is the demon with these things.. if you run four, and they all kick at the same time- you're going to draw hella amps.. you could put a higher rated relay on it (say, 70a) and be alright, but do you really wanna draw that much? THAT is the reason i suggested variable speed fans before.. they have a miniscule kick on amperage draw compared to the one speed fans.
Last edited by drewactual; Jun 21, 2011 at 05:44 PM.
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From: Cape Carteret NC
if you draw too much something has to give.. which is why you protect both upwind and downwind with relays and fuses..
at the least, you'll draw more amperage than your alternator can produce, which means you pull from stored voltage (battery), and run it down.. other accessories will suffer at same time.. you could harm your PCM in this condition without knowing it..
worst case, you draw more than the wiring can handle (which is why you use a heavy gauge to begin with) and the thing burst into flames..
you can meter the flow with a good relay, and protect it all with fuses at key points.. it's not that hard to do it up right..
a slow starting variable speed fan draws very little at first, but can ramp up quickly.. the start up is the enemy of the efan- if you draw too much you blow the fuse and or relay.. and you're stuck like chuck on the shoulder.. a variable speed controller/fan will draw very little.. if you use a 40a fuse, i would guess you would never near it.. and all would be protected upwind and down.
at the least, you'll draw more amperage than your alternator can produce, which means you pull from stored voltage (battery), and run it down.. other accessories will suffer at same time.. you could harm your PCM in this condition without knowing it..
worst case, you draw more than the wiring can handle (which is why you use a heavy gauge to begin with) and the thing burst into flames..
you can meter the flow with a good relay, and protect it all with fuses at key points.. it's not that hard to do it up right..
a slow starting variable speed fan draws very little at first, but can ramp up quickly.. the start up is the enemy of the efan- if you draw too much you blow the fuse and or relay.. and you're stuck like chuck on the shoulder.. a variable speed controller/fan will draw very little.. if you use a 40a fuse, i would guess you would never near it.. and all would be protected upwind and down.
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From: Waller, Tx
well i thought the 4 fan idea would be cool but the radiator is 32x20 so id have to go with 10" fans and the cfm on them is only around 650 so im only looking at half of the cfm the twin 16" fans will give me i can get the procomp 16" for 27 bucks each and $13 shipping. so i think thats what ill go with. (im hoping if i buy 2 from the same person it will only be 1 shipping charge)
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From: Waller, Tx
look for 16", 2750cfm fans on eBay.. I wanna say they were $16 each.. reversible, and plastic housing.. 18a start-up, draw 10~12a continuous..
got controller from flex-a-lite.. i got the kind with two channels and a little dial to adjust temperature points. I have the kind with the probe shoved through the radiator.
I used 10ga wiring from battery to controller, w/ fuse at battery, and an inline relay (fuse 40a, relay 40a).. soldered every connection.. used that little flex tubing over it as it directed over to the controller.. i siliconed the connection to the controller..
from the controller to each fan is 12ga wire.. soldered, tubed, siliconed.. there is no need for a fuse or relay as it is protected at the controller.. some controller don't do this, some do..
this is the only place I skimped even a little: i used the 'through radiator zip's' to attach the fan.. partly because i wasn't convinced at the time that these things would work out as well as they have.. i will fabricate a bracket and fix that at some point..
they pull a hell of a lot of air.. at least 4500cfm real world air, over 5k mathematically..
you can actually 'overdrive' DC motors too, which i don't rec, but hell.. @ $16 each, it isn't going to break the bank to replace them every two years or so if you do choose to overdrive them.. that would likely push you into 5500~6000cfm range.. If you get a variable dipswitch type relay, or potentiometer type, you could 'overdrive' them only while towing or in the heat of summer, and back them off in the winter or regular driving..
easier on gas, a lot more jump in off the line torque then i ever expected, and fairly straightforward job.. less than $150.. it is my third fave mod behind gears and SCT.. it is real close to taking second actually.
the dang thing is golden as far as i'm concerned..
got controller from flex-a-lite.. i got the kind with two channels and a little dial to adjust temperature points. I have the kind with the probe shoved through the radiator.
I used 10ga wiring from battery to controller, w/ fuse at battery, and an inline relay (fuse 40a, relay 40a).. soldered every connection.. used that little flex tubing over it as it directed over to the controller.. i siliconed the connection to the controller..
from the controller to each fan is 12ga wire.. soldered, tubed, siliconed.. there is no need for a fuse or relay as it is protected at the controller.. some controller don't do this, some do..
this is the only place I skimped even a little: i used the 'through radiator zip's' to attach the fan.. partly because i wasn't convinced at the time that these things would work out as well as they have.. i will fabricate a bracket and fix that at some point..
they pull a hell of a lot of air.. at least 4500cfm real world air, over 5k mathematically..
you can actually 'overdrive' DC motors too, which i don't rec, but hell.. @ $16 each, it isn't going to break the bank to replace them every two years or so if you do choose to overdrive them.. that would likely push you into 5500~6000cfm range.. If you get a variable dipswitch type relay, or potentiometer type, you could 'overdrive' them only while towing or in the heat of summer, and back them off in the winter or regular driving..
easier on gas, a lot more jump in off the line torque then i ever expected, and fairly straightforward job.. less than $150.. it is my third fave mod behind gears and SCT.. it is real close to taking second actually.
the dang thing is golden as far as i'm concerned..
Last edited by Buck Slayer; Jul 7, 2011 at 08:52 PM.
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From: Cape Carteret NC
if you want a potentiometer or dip switch type regulator, you're going to have to make it.. it isn't hard though.. just do them inline between the controller and the battery.. If I ever get around to it, or if something goes wrong with my current rig- I'm absolutely going to do something like that..
the closest you're going to be able to find off the shelf is a dakota controller.. they are pretty nice w/ multiple channels, (up to three I think), and digital control and can be set to run however you want them to be.. you can actually mount them in the cab if you like (though I wouldn't see the purpose of such, unless you just like wiring for some reason).. :-)
the closest you're going to be able to find off the shelf is a dakota controller.. they are pretty nice w/ multiple channels, (up to three I think), and digital control and can be set to run however you want them to be.. you can actually mount them in the cab if you like (though I wouldn't see the purpose of such, unless you just like wiring for some reason).. :-)
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From: Waller, Tx
if you want a potentiometer or dip switch type regulator, you're going to have to make it.. it isn't hard though.. just do them inline between the controller and the battery.. If I ever get around to it, or if something goes wrong with my current rig- I'm absolutely going to do something like that..
the closest you're going to be able to find off the shelf is a dakota controller.. they are pretty nice w/ multiple channels, (up to three I think), and digital control and can be set to run however you want them to be.. you can actually mount them in the cab if you like (though I wouldn't see the purpose of such, unless you just like wiring for some reason).. :-)
the closest you're going to be able to find off the shelf is a dakota controller.. they are pretty nice w/ multiple channels, (up to three I think), and digital control and can be set to run however you want them to be.. you can actually mount them in the cab if you like (though I wouldn't see the purpose of such, unless you just like wiring for some reason).. :-)
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Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Southern Indiana
look for 16", 2750cfm fans on eBay.. I wanna say they were $16 each.. reversible, and plastic housing.. 18a start-up, draw 10~12a continuous..
got controller from flex-a-lite.. i got the kind with two channels and a little dial to adjust temperature points. I have the kind with the probe shoved through the radiator.
I used 10ga wiring from battery to controller, w/ fuse at battery, and an inline relay (fuse 40a, relay 40a).. soldered every connection.. used that little flex tubing over it as it directed over to the controller.. i siliconed the connection to the controller..
from the controller to each fan is 12ga wire.. soldered, tubed, siliconed.. there is no need for a fuse or relay as it is protected at the controller.. some controller don't do this, some do..
this is the only place I skimped even a little: i used the 'through radiator zip's' to attach the fan.. partly because i wasn't convinced at the time that these things would work out as well as they have.. i will fabricate a bracket and fix that at some point..
they pull a hell of a lot of air.. at least 4500cfm real world air, over 5k mathematically..
you can actually 'overdrive' DC motors too, which i don't rec, but hell.. @ $16 each, it isn't going to break the bank to replace them every two years or so if you do choose to overdrive them.. that would likely push you into 5500~6000cfm range.. If you get a variable dipswitch type relay, or potentiometer type, you could 'overdrive' them only while towing or in the heat of summer, and back them off in the winter or regular driving..
easier on gas, a lot more jump in off the line torque then i ever expected, and fairly straightforward job.. less than $150.. it is my third fave mod behind gears and SCT.. it is real close to taking second actually.
the dang thing is golden as far as i'm concerned..
got controller from flex-a-lite.. i got the kind with two channels and a little dial to adjust temperature points. I have the kind with the probe shoved through the radiator.
I used 10ga wiring from battery to controller, w/ fuse at battery, and an inline relay (fuse 40a, relay 40a).. soldered every connection.. used that little flex tubing over it as it directed over to the controller.. i siliconed the connection to the controller..
from the controller to each fan is 12ga wire.. soldered, tubed, siliconed.. there is no need for a fuse or relay as it is protected at the controller.. some controller don't do this, some do..
this is the only place I skimped even a little: i used the 'through radiator zip's' to attach the fan.. partly because i wasn't convinced at the time that these things would work out as well as they have.. i will fabricate a bracket and fix that at some point..
they pull a hell of a lot of air.. at least 4500cfm real world air, over 5k mathematically..
you can actually 'overdrive' DC motors too, which i don't rec, but hell.. @ $16 each, it isn't going to break the bank to replace them every two years or so if you do choose to overdrive them.. that would likely push you into 5500~6000cfm range.. If you get a variable dipswitch type relay, or potentiometer type, you could 'overdrive' them only while towing or in the heat of summer, and back them off in the winter or regular driving..
easier on gas, a lot more jump in off the line torque then i ever expected, and fairly straightforward job.. less than $150.. it is my third fave mod behind gears and SCT.. it is real close to taking second actually.
the dang thing is golden as far as i'm concerned..