torque converter stall range
helz no.. I'd put my system up against the effectiveness of one of those any day, and i have about $150 in it.. I could have much less if I wasn't so **** about the wiring, soldering, shielding, relays, fuses and controllers.. I could have been out of it for about $70 or so..
also this is a bit off topic but sense it has to do with cooling ill ask, should i put a lower thermostat on my truck? my only concern is that someone told me they thought it might play with my cat (its efficiency) and o2 sensors and there relaying of information (too rich/lean) since everything will be running cooler...not sure on the validity of this though?
look for 16", 2750cfm fans on eBay.. I wanna say they were $16 each.. reversible, and plastic housing.. 18a start-up, draw 10~12a continuous..
got controller from flex-a-lite.. i got the kind with two channels and a little dial to adjust temperature points. I have the kind with the probe shoved through the radiator.
I used 10ga wiring from battery to controller, w/ fuse at battery, and an inline relay (fuse 40a, relay 40a).. soldered every connection.. used that little flex tubing over it as it directed over to the controller.. i siliconed the connection to the controller..
from the controller to each fan is 12ga wire.. soldered, tubed, siliconed.. there is no need for a fuse or relay as it is protected at the controller.. some controller don't do this, some do..
this is the only place I skimped even a little: i used the 'through radiator zip's' to attach the fan.. partly because i wasn't convinced at the time that these things would work out as well as they have.. i will fabricate a bracket and fix that at some point..
they pull a hell of a lot of air.. at least 4500cfm real world air, over 5k mathematically..
you can actually 'overdrive' DC motors too, which i don't rec, but hell.. @ $16 each, it isn't going to break the bank to replace them every two years or so if you do choose to overdrive them.. that would likely push you into 5500~6000cfm range.. If you get a variable dipswitch type relay, or potentiometer type, you could 'overdrive' them only while towing or in the heat of summer, and back them off in the winter or regular driving..
easier on gas, a lot more jump in off the line torque then i ever expected, and fairly straightforward job.. less than $150.. it is my third fave mod behind gears and SCT.. it is real close to taking second actually.
the dang thing is golden as far as i'm concerned..
got controller from flex-a-lite.. i got the kind with two channels and a little dial to adjust temperature points. I have the kind with the probe shoved through the radiator.
I used 10ga wiring from battery to controller, w/ fuse at battery, and an inline relay (fuse 40a, relay 40a).. soldered every connection.. used that little flex tubing over it as it directed over to the controller.. i siliconed the connection to the controller..
from the controller to each fan is 12ga wire.. soldered, tubed, siliconed.. there is no need for a fuse or relay as it is protected at the controller.. some controller don't do this, some do..
this is the only place I skimped even a little: i used the 'through radiator zip's' to attach the fan.. partly because i wasn't convinced at the time that these things would work out as well as they have.. i will fabricate a bracket and fix that at some point..
they pull a hell of a lot of air.. at least 4500cfm real world air, over 5k mathematically..
you can actually 'overdrive' DC motors too, which i don't rec, but hell.. @ $16 each, it isn't going to break the bank to replace them every two years or so if you do choose to overdrive them.. that would likely push you into 5500~6000cfm range.. If you get a variable dipswitch type relay, or potentiometer type, you could 'overdrive' them only while towing or in the heat of summer, and back them off in the winter or regular driving..
easier on gas, a lot more jump in off the line torque then i ever expected, and fairly straightforward job.. less than $150.. it is my third fave mod behind gears and SCT.. it is real close to taking second actually.
the dang thing is golden as far as i'm concerned..
re:stat...
unless you tune for it, you're wasting your $ on a lower temperature stat.. the idea is simply to run cooler so you have less opportunity to pre-det, which means you can advance spark a hair or two.. the curious thing about this is, ultimately, your engine's temperature will be directly compared to it's cooling capacity (surface area of rad, volume of flow, volume of fluid) and not where your stat opens and closes.. it will take a long while, but your engine is going to run what your engine is going to run regardless of that stat.. (unless you overwhelm it by putting a really hot stat in it that is.. if it doesn't open until 205~210, it's going to start the race to cool too far behind the curve.. a cooler stat allows it a little bit of a head start..)
once that engine has been under load for, say, fifteen minutes, it's temperature will be determined by it's ability to dissipate the heat all by it's lonesome.
unless you tune for it, you're wasting your $ on a lower temperature stat.. the idea is simply to run cooler so you have less opportunity to pre-det, which means you can advance spark a hair or two.. the curious thing about this is, ultimately, your engine's temperature will be directly compared to it's cooling capacity (surface area of rad, volume of flow, volume of fluid) and not where your stat opens and closes.. it will take a long while, but your engine is going to run what your engine is going to run regardless of that stat.. (unless you overwhelm it by putting a really hot stat in it that is.. if it doesn't open until 205~210, it's going to start the race to cool too far behind the curve.. a cooler stat allows it a little bit of a head start..)
once that engine has been under load for, say, fifteen minutes, it's temperature will be determined by it's ability to dissipate the heat all by it's lonesome.
it was a company... or hell, it may have been a company being ran out of someones living room for all I know, but the fans were something to do with pro.. pro this or pro that.. I can't recall.. they have a slew of them listed from 8" to 16".
nope.. I have a second gen masquerading as a third gen.. the whole front end is different from yours.. I have one on the outside pushing, on the passenger side, and one inside pulling closer to the drivers side.. they overlap about three or four inches or so..



