v8 5.2l -- 20'' wheels

well for same reason the truck for some time now ,has no power,i mean i really have to push the gas pedal to go from start to 60...is just lazy....

i spent some money with this problem and still the same thing...

this is what i did:
-tuneup
-rebuild tranny
-changed o2 sensors
-change cats
-added flowmaster
-put new high performance torque converter (to run faster)
-we also have change some of the sensors (dont remember,names-is been like 2years ,truck is siting)

now,
we also did:
-engine rebuild.
but

after give me the truck ,it was goig the same way,lazy,no difference that we have rebuild the engine.
and i have asked them what did you guys changed when you have rebuild the engine? and they said that they have change the piston rings only!,,and they called that rebuild,,! so now i have to start from the beginning,i have to check the cylinder pressure,and also to do a leak down test. maybe that where the problem is,but i know the engine was running round,no cuts,last time i have started,and no oil eating!,no smoke or nothing.

and

normally when a engine rebuild is done do to no power,you have to change :
-pistone rings
-resurface the cilinder walls
-check the heads
and if the engine is down,check rod & main bearings,seals...gaskets...


does anyone knows if is there a sensor maybe that may not work properly ? that may cause a lose of power?

thanks.....

 

Clogged cat due to blown plenum. Also eats the pre-cat O2 sensor, which is what determines how your engine runs......

Unscrew the pre-cat O2 sensor, take the truck for a drive. See if it isn't any better.

 

Fuel sync reset is a good idea after rebuild.

 

the cat was changed last year 2010.
and maybe drove this truck only about 4-5000miles .
thanks

 

yap,forgot to mention ,in first post

-fuel pomp was changed also...with the original new one!

can you explain how to do this?
""Fuel sync reset"

thank you friend.

 

It's done with a capable scanner, snap -on etc... this gets you going though. Credit for the following goes to speedtweaks.

Distributor Indexing - Without using a Scanner
(We highly recommend setting the Fuel-Sync with a scanner but this will work for an initial setting)
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
Vehicles may exhibit surging, light bucking, or intermittent engine misfiring. This will most likely occur
when the vehicle is at operating temperature, and under a light load at approximately 2000 RPM. This
condition may be caused by a mis -indexed distributor. The following procedure is an alternative to the
indexing procedure outlined in the service manual.
REPAIR PROCEDURE:
This procedure outlines an alternative distributor indexing procedure.
Connect a voltmeter to the distributor sensor connector by removing the end seal and carefully back
probing the connector. Connect the positive lead to the sensor output pin (pin 3, either a tan wire with a
yellow tracer or a gray wire, depending on vehicle application). Connect the negative lead to the sensor
ground pin (pin 2, a black wire with a light blue tracer).
Rotate the engine clockwise as viewed from the front, until the number one piston is at Top Dead Center
(TDC) of the compression stroke. The timing mark on the vibration damper should line up with the zero
degree
(TDC) mark on the timing chain case cover.
Continue to rotate the engine slowly clockwise until the V6 or V8 mark (depending on engine type) lines
up with the zero degree (TDC) mark on the timing chain case cover. The V8 mark is 17.5°after TDC and
the V6 mark is 147°after TDC. NOTE: DO NOT ROTATE THE ENGINE COUNTER CLOCKWISE. IF
THE ENGINE IS ROTATED BEYOND THE MARK, RETURN TO STEP 2 AND REPEAT THE
PROCEDURE.
Loosen the distributor clamp bolt.
With the ignition switch in the ON position, rotate the distributor slightly in either direction until the
voltmeter switches between the sensor transition point of 0 and 5 volts.
Adjust the distributor as close as possible to either side of this transition point and tighten the distributor
clamp bolt to 19-26 N-m (170-230 in.lbs.) .

 

thanks for that guide,but i think will go to a shop to make sure is done right!

i did check the cilinder pressure psi
driver side:
front to rear
1-150
2-150
3-142
4-142
pass. side:
front to rear
5-140
6-150
7-150
8-150

so what you think is this a good compression?

and also let me ask you this,what about injectors !,what about if 1 or 2 give little more gas than the other ,can this make the truck like have no power?,but the engine runs round ,no cuts into the idle.

anyway,i will try to find a shop to do that "fuel sync reset"

thank you for your advice!

 

The 5.2 with that much rolling mass isn't going to have a lot of power. Take a look at the sticky thread about the plenum. If it wasn't done during the rebuild, and I suspect it wasn't, it would be a good place to start.

 

hi,and thanks,
i found the sticky tread about plenum here:

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...um-thread.html

well i guess i am give it a try ,and replace that to see what will happen.

we got the truck back in 2001 and it had about 80k miles, and after about a year i got a sec one it was a 1996 5.2liter ,about the same miles,but i can tell the difference in bettween the 2 trucks,the 1996 was faster than the 1995 one,for some reason.

so,anyway, will look more into that plenum ,so i can order it from somewhere and to change it,to see what will happen.

thank you friend for that advice!