I installed the Sure Cure Kit, and had him double check the springs that go in afetrer the valve (i kicked over the pan I had the parts in and jumbled them up). I installed the sonnax spring and 2 shims. I wonder if he went back and put the balance spring back in?

I'll call him tomorrow - maybe he will remember. I'll try to adjust and if that doesn't work I guess I'll pull VB again and check it over (hate that park rod). Good thing new pan has a drain. I have the drain, capture and filtration thing down. This stuff is too expensive to waste!

Thanks.

 

Getting back to working on the Ram. Transmission is not shifting into 1st when I oput it in Drive. It will go into first when I put it in 1. Started checking pressures on transmission.

In reverse, i get form 70 to 80 psi on the rear solenoid.

In 1, I get 22 psi from 600 to 2000 rpm, and 25 psi at 2500 rpm.

Today, I was driving it to the post office, and CEL came on. Checked this and getting P0783 (3-4 shift) and P0740 (TC Clutch Circuit Open). I replaced the governor solenoid, governor pressure sensor, TC solenoid and OD solenoid and the cable assembly inside the transmission.

Cleared codes and it has not come back after running 7-8 miles. Overall, I have driven this around town for the last week about 65 miles total, and the CEL only came up today.

Is there anything to check externally - before I drop the pan off again?

Thanks.

 

So the CEL for the 3/4 and l/u solenoids came back? And it wont got into first in drive. Feels like its pulling off in high gear?

I had a 3/4 solenoid short electrically and cause the governor solenoid not to get any power, but I could shift the trans manually. If those codes are coming back even after you replaced the solenoid then start looking for an electrical fault, somewhere in the internal and external harness.

 

Do all of the wires coming out of tranmission go back to PCM? I was thinking of stripping the jacket off the cables starting at the connector for about a foot or so and also from the PCM for a bout a foot or so also. Seem most likely place for chaffing and shorting. But then again, yther is a transmission relay in the power (fuse) box behind the battery, so I guess some of the wiring goes to that as well.

The CELs did not come on when the tranmission first acted up on PO, and this is the first time they came on with me. I may also pull VB back out and make sure I did not damage the wires while installing. Cable assy and elect components inside trans are all new - not "refurbished" like you see advertised.

Hopefully I can get this resolved this weekend. Would love to finish this so I can get on with other tasks I have lined up. (They stack up faster than I can do them!)

Thanks, MonteC!

 

why does my truck shift at 2,500rpms to a lil over but never passes 3,000rpms even when i stomp it? my buddys got a 99 like mine but hes goes all the way p to 5,00rpms and his is stock??? how do i get this right or is the 01 just a slug?

 

Try adjusting the TV cable. DIY for that in the FAQ section.

 

Update time.

I got the shifting problems corrected - kind of.... I have all four gears and reverse, TC locks up when it is supposed to, and with gauges and MTG 2500 I have verfied that everything is working correctly......except for some occasional engine flare when it kicks down into second.

So I pulled the transmission back out this weekend. I only got as far as the direct clutch and this is what I found:


This is the first steel in the direct clutch. I installed the modified direct clutch from wittrans (5 frictions).

And this is the first friction betweeen the pressure plate and the first steel:


The other steels all look good. The first one is the only one with any sign of a problem.

I think the steels are thinner than the original, which had 3 frictions, but does anyone know if the frictions are the same thickness?

Would it be safe to reuse this steel? It is discolored, so I am thinking it is not any good.

Thanks.

Just called WITTRANS. Steels and frictions are the same thickness as original. Pressure plate and piston are cut down to allow for extra frictions/steels. Now if I can only find the parts I took out - I normally keep old parts until well after a project is done - but it appears I may have gotten caried away cleaning up garage when I first put trans back in!

 

I adjust the the tv cable a couple times forward and backwards... it still shifts at 2,500 but the shifts do get harder or smoother it depends on the throttle... gonna post a video of it tomarrow

 

I'm just posting to give props to gdstock for his perseverance and very helpful photos/commentary. I'm sure others have done just as good around here, so not to take away from them at all.

kudos big guy and I've been following just for my edumacation. Keep the updates coming please.

 

Thanks Wh1t3NuKle. I do have an an advantage as this is not my DD and I have the luxury of working on it when I can or want to do so. I can really sympathize with DF members that are facing a dilema as they have to have the their truck running to get to work every day, and money is tight. I know that this sometimes forces one to limit what they do and how to schedule repairs in a particular priority. Been there - done that as well. But with kids through school and grown, there is a little more flexibility, expecially with no more college tuition payments! I only hope that others as I learn from others here, I am able to pay it forward and help otheres learn form my challenges and mistakes, and encourage some to take a chance and try something new, and hopefully save a few bucks while enjoying the satisfaction of accomplishment.



Well, for once I did too good a job cleaning up the garage after trans rebuild - and already threw out the old parts. Not a biggie - just highly unlike me (still have junk parts from an old Super Beetel I took off 6 years ago - moved this crap from Albuquerque, to Oklahoma, to West Texas. THAT stuff I can find...)

Ordered new steels and frictions from WITTRANS. Not going to take any chances. I want it fixed right.

Still wondering why these would show signs of heat and wear. Trans only has about 200 miles or so on it.

Anyone have any idea if this could have been caused when anchor fell out of rear band? If you recall, I lost reverse when this occurred and engine just reved with no movement. If so, I would feel better knowing something and not wondering if something else is lurking inside the tranny to ruin my day sometime soon.