Mopar Performance lifters. Got them here:

http://stores.hi-potek.com/-strse-44...ets/Detail.bok

If you buy lifters from another company, make sure that they are the same height as the stock and be especially certain the roller at the bottom is as wide as the stock lifter.

Part of what makes the mopar camshaft superior to say, a chevy, is that the roller on the lifter is very wide. This allows you to use way more aggressive lobes than skinnier rollers without a fear of problems.

 

Thats not a bad price for all 16

 

Are those lifters heavy duty from stock ? Mine needs replaces , I one is broken and been ticking for a while now . I wanted to save some money and do more than just lifters if I have to take the top end apart . How much would a shop charge to do lifters ?

 

Arm, Leg, half your soul, first born male child, and three nights a week with your wife for two years.

On a more serious note...... probably 4 to 6 hundred for labor, depending on what rates are like where you are.

 

How does one get away with putting a cam in, without having to mod pistons on a 5.2?? Just stock rockers or 1.6 rollers? Is like to do a head and cam swap on my truck, I've just never done it before.

 

The rocker arms aren't the problem.

it's the cam's profile at the overlap, the valve size, and the flat topped piston, that you must factor in.

 

So just call comp cams and give them the specs of the heads, valves, etc I use, lol.

 

That would be wise idea.

Be sure to mention anything that is not stock, like 1.7 rocker arms, different valve sizes, heads, etc. Anything that is different about the valve train must be accounted for.

A cam with a gross lift of .305 at the lobes has a lift of .488 with 1.6 stock rocker arms. With 1.7 rocker arms, it's .518 total lift.


the same thing happens at .050, .100, .150, etc gross lift on the lobe, so piston to valve clearance at the overlap will be tighter on 1.7 rockers than 1.6 rockers, though it's not as big a difference at really low lifts, but there is some.

 

I will keep that in mind, is like to do the heads and cam at the same time, so I only have to tear into the engine once...anything you recommend for a first timer? I don't plan on soing this job until next may or so. But I plan on doing it right.

 

Study up, read the fsm, know your torque procedures, how to use a degree wheel, etc.

When you dissasemble the engine, either keep the bolts and small parts in bags for each part, or put the bolts back in the parts and lay them out neatly. If you take just a few moments to write down each step you do, it make assembly much easier and quicker. I like to write down little tricky steps so that I remember how to do it on reassembly. I also like to take the time to clean the parts on tear down, as I find myself in a hurry to get it back together and up and running after I've installed the new parts.