USE A TORQUE WRENCH ON YOUR INTAKE MANIFOLD BOLTS. Sorry for shouting.

 

cats already gone. went with a jegs y-pipe 3 weeks ago

and im waiting till i get the $50 off $100 from advance to get a bogo o2 sensor!!

 

cheapest intake manifold bolts I've found:

http://stores.hi-potek.com/-strse-42...num/Detail.bok

Not bad, as shipping is included.

I coat the bolts with nickel anti-seize, and I mean thoroughly coated. The intake manifold bolts have a lot working against them, (crankcase blowby, dissimilar metals meeting and the bolts act as the bridge, etc.) and tend to corrode more quickly than just about anywhere else on the engine. The nickel anti-seize keeps the corrosive elements at bay, and keeps you from snapping a bolt later down the road if you should ever need to remove it again.

Follow the torque procedure carefully on the installation or you'll have leaks. Double or even triple check the bolts at the end and go very light on the torque wrench handle to get every last bit of that 12 ft/lbs on those bolts.

Use an inch/lbs torque wrench on the bolts, not a ft/lbs. Seen that mistake made before.

 

pretty good price. local stealership was $18.

thanks for the tips. i'l take any and all i can get for when we start this. i'll have my lappy handy so i can pull up the forum if needed

 

Are those TTY? I doubt they are. I believe summit was selling the same one's for the same price. $18 for stealership bolts is a good price. I paid $27 for mine.

 

You do not need TTY bolts. That is a myth.

 

Hows so? I'm not trying to be a smart ***. I'm just curious.

 

Here is an article on just what torque to yield means.

I suspect that, using a standard bolt, you would actually be applying more clamping force, for the same torque values, than a TTY bolt.

The article also states that TTY bolts are NOT re-usable.

 

So they're pretty much "goof proof"...

 

Until you want to take them off. Then they break.