Forced to down grade 06 to 98
#11
#12
#13
#14
#16
Thanks guys, keep the suggestions coming.
I do have a running vehicle.......
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SM-KUlqsUac
I do have a running vehicle.......
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SM-KUlqsUac
#17
i didn't ask any questions, but before you spend $ on that switch, test yours to verify its the problem.
you said you backup lights worked, but not right. i'm assuming that means that if you supply power to them they work, and that they don't work when you put the truck in reverse.
to prove that, unplug the neutral/reverse switch, identify the pins,
test for incoming voltage
jumper the hot wire across to the reverse wire and verify your lights work.
test the reverse switch, and see it fail. depress the plunger thingy and test with ohm meter. you might even be able to clean it and fix it.
you said you backup lights worked, but not right. i'm assuming that means that if you supply power to them they work, and that they don't work when you put the truck in reverse.
to prove that, unplug the neutral/reverse switch, identify the pins,
test for incoming voltage
jumper the hot wire across to the reverse wire and verify your lights work.
test the reverse switch, and see it fail. depress the plunger thingy and test with ohm meter. you might even be able to clean it and fix it.
#18
Thank you for the advice. I will use this procedure to verify my situation.
i didn't ask any questions, but before you spend $ on that switch, test yours to verify its the problem.
you said you backup lights worked, but not right. i'm assuming that means that if you supply power to them they work, and that they don't work when you put the truck in reverse.
to prove that, unplug the neutral/reverse switch, identify the pins,
test for incoming voltage
jumper the hot wire across to the reverse wire and verify your lights work.
test the reverse switch, and see it fail. depress the plunger thingy and test with ohm meter. you might even be able to clean it and fix it.
you said you backup lights worked, but not right. i'm assuming that means that if you supply power to them they work, and that they don't work when you put the truck in reverse.
to prove that, unplug the neutral/reverse switch, identify the pins,
test for incoming voltage
jumper the hot wire across to the reverse wire and verify your lights work.
test the reverse switch, and see it fail. depress the plunger thingy and test with ohm meter. you might even be able to clean it and fix it.
#19
#20
New neutral safety switch installed, reverse lights operational.
Also, something I typically do not do. I did and oil changed and replaced one quart of oil with Lucas Stop Engine Leak. It has slowed the rear main seal leak until I can get to changing it out.
I am talking to a buddy who wrenches for Dodge to see if he can scan the ABS/Brake lights.
Now, if I can only work up the nerve to try the heater core.
Also, something I typically do not do. I did and oil changed and replaced one quart of oil with Lucas Stop Engine Leak. It has slowed the rear main seal leak until I can get to changing it out.
I am talking to a buddy who wrenches for Dodge to see if he can scan the ABS/Brake lights.
Now, if I can only work up the nerve to try the heater core.